[SirRog]

I pretty well will be leaving my Giulia parked with a trickle charger to keep the battery up to snuff for the winter months. My question would be, can I do this as well with the connections under the hood as appose to the hassles of going through the trunk area ?

 

[jwq2]

I pretty well will be leaving my Giulia parked with a trickle charger to keep the battery up to snuff for the winter months. My question would be, can I do this as well with the connections under the hood as appose to the hassles of going through the trunk area ?

Doesn't make any difference, whatever you prefer and is more convenient

 

[SirRog]

Doesn't make any difference, whatever you prefer and is more convenient

Thanks.

I kind of assumed as much, especially since you can boost from these alternate connections, but with the electrical components in vehicles nowadays one can never be too careful.

 

[Racer Z]

I pretty well will be leaving my Giulia parked with a trickle charger to keep the battery up to snuff for the winter months. My question would be, can I do this as well with the connections under the hood as appose to the hassles of going through the trunk area ?

Doesn't make any difference, whatever you prefer and is more convenient

Agreed.

If you're just using temporary alligator clips, I'd clip on under the hood.

If you want a permanent connection with an easy to attach setup, I'd go to the battery in the trunk. That way the hanging wire can be stuffed behind the trunk panel out of the way when you're driving.

 

[SirRog]

Agreed.

If you're just using temporary alligator clips, I'd clip on under the hood.

If you want a permanent connection with an easy to attach setup, I'd go to the battery in the trunk. That way the hanging wire can be stuffed behind the trunk panel out of the way when you're driving.

Good suggestion Racer Z, and thanks for that. I do have the permanent connections. However, the way the car is parked in the garage and the limited space, under the hood is a lot more convenient.

 

[lockem]

Is there enough clearance to the positive terminal under the hood to allow the hood to be closed while a clip is attached?

 

[SirRog]

Is there enough clearance to the positive terminal under the hood to allow the hood to be closed while a clip is attached?

Good question !

I haven't connected the trickle charger yet, but what if I cannot close the hood completely, what would the problem be, if any ? Just curious.

 

[Racer Z]

Is there enough clearance to the positive terminal under the hood to allow the hood to be closed while a clip is attached?

Good question !

I haven't connected the trickle charger yet, but what if I cannot close the hood completely, what would the problem be, if any ? Just curious.

The biggest and most obvious problem would be the positive terminal touching the hood and causing a direct short to ground. I'm starting to not like the engine compartment for this long-term connection.

If you attach to the battery, you will be able to close the trunk. You can always run an extension cord to the battery charger.

I'm thinking you should open the car and explore things.

 

[lockem]

The hood is not designed to be closed part way. It is either up or down. I suppose to you can stuff a prop stick of some kind under it to hold it in a partially open position. Also, the hood is very flimsy, so unless the hood is down the car needs to be in a garage; otherwise wind is going to damage it.

I installed permanent cables on the battery leads. The battery leads are not all that convenient to access either, as the positive terminal has a power distribution module covering it. You can take the cap off of the power module and clip to the bolts in the power bar inside.

If I had it to do over, I would attach my trickle charger leads to the inside of the fuse box that is in the bottom of the trunk. Remove the trunk floor (it just rests in place) then remove the styrofoam block underneath to gain access to this fuse box.

I have the Alfa branded trickle charger/maintainer, which "creatively" fails to come with Alfa specific installation instructions or Alfa specific permanent wiring leads <sigh>. The low voltage lead to the charger is flat and the trunk lid can be closed on it. The AC power cord not so much. Of course if you run the low voltage leads out of the car your charger is also outside of the car, so the car had better be located somewhere that is not a problem. An alternative is to buy a flat AC extension cord.

Don't forget, if you disconnect the battery and close the trunk lid it may be a hassle to re-open the trunk lid.

 

[John_K_348]

I'd like to see how you did yours lockem. I got fed up with the power bar and negative side too. The jump leads under the hood are the most certain and convenient IF you can park with the hood ajar. The lights will flash on arming the alarm but it works. Most clips should be insulated on the handles. It is a bit close on the Quad and they interfered on mine since the post pretty much forces you to point the handles up and that touches the hood. Mine works well and I feel a lot better staying off the power bar bar. My Schumacher loops were small and the bolts I chose, + and - didn't work right. Or at least the small - nut did not come off. It was caged somehow on the post assembly.

 

[jwq2]

I'd like to see how you did yours lockem.....

I can show you how I did mine ...

I connected the negative to convenient metal part of bodywork above the battery, as the ringlet did not fit on negative post, and this way I was also sure current runs through the IBS, which is required (pic 1)

 

[SirRog]

In my particular situation and the way the car is parked in the garage it was just more convenient to connect under the hood with a prop to hold the hood open and just enough not to interfere with the positive clip. Thank you all for the input.

 

[lockem]

I can show you how I did mine ...

I connected the negative to convenient metal part of bodywork above the battery, as the ringlet did not fit on negative post, and this way I was also sure current runs through the IBS, which is required (pic 1)

Positive lead on mine looks similar, but I had to shave the plastic on the cable end back a little and use shims on the bolt in order to get the lead straight enough that it does not interfere with the power distribution box lid.

I ended up hacking the negative lead a lot to get it onto the correct lug of the IBS. I also had to partially dismantle the IBS lug. I cannot recommend that approach.

 

[John_K_348]

OK that was the same positive bolt that I was trying to use. Did you clean the paint on the body mount? Lockem, do you then suggest using the body as negative ground?

 

[jwq2]

OK that was the same positive bolt that I was trying to use. Did you clean the paint on the body mount? Lockem, do you then suggest using the body as negative ground?

Yes, used a stainless steel bolt with a nylock nut, drilled a hole, removed paint and put rustproofing on afterwards.
Perfectly fine to use the body as negative ground, lot of the car electric systems do the same, as does the negative post under the hood

 

[lockem]

OK that was the same positive bolt that I was trying to use. Did you clean the paint on the body mount? Lockem, do you then suggest using the body as negative ground?

Any grounded part of the body is suitable for use as a ground. I'm not sure the front fenders are grounded and obviously plastic body parts are not grounded.

If doing it over I would hunt around a bit and see if I can find an existing ground point rather than drill a hole and then have to worry about corrosion. I do not think it is necessary to scrape away any paint around a drill hole for a self tapping screw. The screw threads will make an adequate electrical connection.

Note that stainless steel is cathodic to regular steel. This means that there will be enhanced corrosion of the steel around the contact point with the stainless steel. This can get extremely bad if you use regular steel screws on a stainless steel structure; however, I tend to be very cautious about corrosion anywhere near the lead-acid battery.

 

[jwq2]

....... rather than drill a hole and then have to worry about corrosion. I do not think it is necessary to scrape away any paint around a drill hole for a self tapping screw. The screw threads will make an adequate electrical connection.
.....

I think a bolt with a nylock nut makes a better connection, without the chance of it loosening due to vibration, compared to a self tapping screw.
I'm a bit OCD that way..... Bolts on the battery are also stainless btw
Also as it's an internal metal piece, actual chance of corrosion is minimal anyway. I'm not worried.
I'd be more worried about a rusting self tapping screw, they tend to rust easily....

 

[John_K_348]

OK great. I actually used a bolt under the foam trunk liner for my ground off the Forza controller. The one for the ecu way in the back near the wheel arch was perfect. Easy on and off and you didn't need to remove the lower foam section which would also require removing plastic fasteners. It's a bit far from the battery though.

 

[ferraripete]

as a note: I am using a trickle charger on my car and it has gone as much as two months w/o being started. the trickle charger does what it is intended to do and starts have been perfect.

 

[John_K_348]

Jump terminals have worked great too. I think you might be able to bend the alligator clip handles to have them sit down a bit more under the hood. This would allow a full closure. My Schumacher lead is thin enough to fit in the hood gap. Not worried as it is fine ajar in my garage. Car has not moved in about a month. I cleaned the windshield since it did sprinkle the last time it was out. I was wiping down the Ferrari after a run on Sunday anyway. Just a little salt spray from the puddles. Wheels could use a wash. Bridgestone Pole Positions are way heartier than the Corsas. Warm up fine with caution.