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Titanium 3" Exhaust for my Alfa QV

5K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Connedale 
#1 ·
I built this Titanium exhaust for my QV... it took waaay too long. But I figured I'd share. It's 3" diameter tubing, slip fit with spring tangs, H-pipe, and I've added a pair of mufflers in the rear. I used Ticon tubing..and I made about half of the pie cuts lol.
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#7 ·
Thanks guys. I'll post up the pictures of the rear section... I have a bazillion more welds back there. I remember finishing it just before TX2K19 and then sleeping in the truck for the whole ride.
 
#8 ·
FWIW, Fiamenghi was able to buy pre-bent tubing for my 2.0T titanium exhaust and avoid the large number of welds. I don't think I will have time to install it until spring <sigh>.

Discoloration around Ti welds is not a good thing. Did you intentionally do the coloring after the welding?
 
#9 ·
Most of the welds are straw colored and the heat affected zone is pretty minimal. I use a Furick Pyrex cup and lense setup with a long post purge & second bottle for backpurge on a Miller Dynasty 200DX. Discoloration around the welds is due to heat and will happen... what you don't want to see is white powder - that's oxidized Titanium. This is my third Titanium Exhaust setup I've done... one for my 800whp Evo, another for a 9 second RS3, and this one for my Alfa. None have had any issues with cracking or failures... So I'd say I'm doing a pretty bang up job thus far :)
 
#10 ·
Discoloration is due to Titanium reacting with air (oxidizing) when it is heated. Heat alone will not cause the discoloration. If your inert gas coverage is adequate you will not get any discoloration at all. White powder or rainbow colors, the source is the same it is only the thickness that differs. That said, exhaust pipes do not carry a particularly heavy mechanical load, so you can get away with things that would turn really bad with something like a bicycle frame.

On a related point: how do you make nitrous injection work with this electronically controlled engine? Did you swap out or alter the engine controller? Maybe you altered sensors or the signals from them? On the surface it appears to be an extremely difficult undertaking and you apparently know how to make it work so maybe you could share?
 
#11 ·
Yeah I get how oxidation of Titanium happens - problem is - You build a whole titanium exhaust out of pie cuts and show me pictures of it. It's a huge PITA to keep it completely shielded and to do it in less than a week. I know what perfect looks like - doing it is another matter. Shit happens - lets not get too pedantic. I didn't run Nitrous on my car...however I have run Nitrous setups on turbocharged direct injection engines with Bosch ECU's.... Biggest issue is that most all modern ECU's use fuel cut rather than spark cut for torque reductions/limiters. So if you're spray a wet nitrous setup (fuel and n2o) - and you hit ECU fuel cut (think rev limiter or gear change) You'll have a lean backfire and it'll try to blow your intake manifold off your engine (probably bend the throttle plates). I've run dry nitrous with some success - but you have to spray an epic amount of nitrous to make worth your while and it'll throw your fuel trims to your max limit (25%) before you see an appreciable increase in trap speed. it does help with intake air temperatures and compressor efficiency (if you spray pre turbo) If I HAD to run nitrous - I would run a wet kit and setup a window switch and limit my use cases to places that don't typically have a fuel cut. Watch your fuel trims before you spray and after you spray and try to keep your instantaneous fuel trim near 0. We ran a nitrous bar on the intercooler - and burned a WHOLE 10lb bottle in one pass. It did reduce the IAT's by 10C the whole pull, but was that worth the amount of money we spent in nitrous? NAH. That's when we moved to spraying it in the turbo. I suppose my next step would be to switch the fuel cut to an ignition cut - which I've done before - but its kind of a PITA and requires lots of code changes. Does this mean you can't spray a big wet shot? No, but does it mean that you've protected yourself from a very common and terrific failure mode? Nope. I ended up running the nitrous on a button after a window switch. I would just spray after the gear change and lift well before the next gear change... and only in 3/4/5 to prevent making a booboo in the first two (very quick) gears.
 
#12 ·
@IdealRace , OK I am certain that I confused you with someone else. The other person added nitrous injection to a 2.0T, not a QV. Even so, how does the ECU know about the extra oxidizer in the intake? It needs to increase fuel delivery or things will go wrong.

Also, how do you get a hold of the code to modify it? Reverse engineering? Posted somewhere? Back door grabs through the developers?
 
#13 ·
I built this Titanium exhaust for my QV... it took waaay too long. But I figured I'd share. It's 3" diameter tubing, slip fit with spring tangs, H-pipe, and I've added a pair of mufflers in the rear. I used Ticon tubing..and I made about half of the pie cuts lol.
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Assuming you’re also 3” cat less DPs? Any sound clips available?

Also, I know you have the DPs for sale.

When are you offering the intake system? I think you would be the first.
 
#14 ·
Lockem - the ECU knows it's getting more air mass because the lambda sensor will be lean of target and the internal Bosch Lambda PID will compensate with your instantaneous closed loop fuel trim. Poor way of doing it- but if you can ramp it in - it "works."

BlackMamba - Yeah it's catless - i have a dyno video of the car just open downpipes....
And another with the full titanium exhaust (with mufflers - no cats)
I also have some videos on youtube and on my FB/IG page. The big batch of intakes aren't completed yet - so will be February about.
 
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