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As the 500 Abarth being my first Turbo Car I learned an accurate boost gauge is a Must.
As much as I wanted to do this right away, I figure maybe someone much more familiar would pave the way. Regardless I will start looking into it and if I can, I will try and install myself and document. If i have it professionally installed I will also try and detail. I currently have a Defi gauge with a Pod for Mounting.
If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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I fitted one myself on my RX7 a few years ago - I guess first steps would be seeing how simple the thread route is. I seem to recall mine came up via the foot well through the engine bay. I think if you work how simple that should be you can easily do yourself as the rest would be hiding the cable. Post pics when you're done! :)
 

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Maybe we have a couple options like electronic or vacuum? If there is a sensor already sending boost data to the ecu we can hopefully just tap it. Same goes for vacuum I suppose but you have to route the vacuum line from the intake manifold or someplace after the compressor. Then you need electrical for the light as well.
 

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Sorry I missed this thread. I do think a boost gauge is a good idea. I am pretty sure my son Jordan is working on this. I'll try and answer the questions that have been raised in this thread.

The car does of course have sensors providing boost data. I generally don't like to tap into those, I think it's better to run a separate sensor for the gauge. I haven't even seen the car yet, but I will see my son's car when he gets home next week. At that point we will get to work on various things, and a boost gauge will be on that list.

For those of you who are familiar with Eurocompulsion's product line for other Italian cars, you probably know what's coming ;)

Greg
 

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Interesting! I have a vacuum boost gauge and extra direct digital A/F ratio guage and O2 sensor on my Miata. New bung on header too.

Oh wait, maybe the electronic gagges could be wireless via bluetooth? I use a bluetooth scanner for my OBD Torque/Facile apps.
 

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The ECU does indeed send Boost/Vacuum data. I have read and plotted it for my 2.0 using OBD2 ELM327 adaptor and Torque Pro app. Boost sensor is on the line to the intercooler after the turbo outlet, which could perhaps be used or as Greg said above a separate tap somewhere? Being new to mods though, can someone explain why a boost gauge is a must? Surely once you know the car you can drive based on gear/rpm to get best performance in the power band?

By the way does anyone know what the 2.0 280HP boost pressure are in each DNA mode? I know D and N have same boost = ~17 psig. A is less ~11 psig. NOTE: Mine is a 200HP UK model. Am from across the lil'pond ;)
 

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The ECU does indeed send Boost/Vacuum data. I have read and plotted it for my 2.0 using OBD2 ELM327 adaptor and Torque Pro app. Boost sensor is on the line to the intercooler after the turbo outlet, which could perhaps be used or as Greg said above a separate tap somewhere? Being new to mods though, can someone explain why a boost gauge is a must? Surely once you know the car you can drive based on gear/rpm to get best performance in the power band?

By the way does anyone know what the 2.0 280HP boost pressure are in each DNA mode? I know D and N have same boost = ~17 psig. A is less ~11 psig. NOTE: Mine is a 200HP UK model. Am from across the lil'pond ;)
Boost at the turbo outlet will be higher than the boost at the manifold, if the intercooler is doing its job.
I don't think boost is very useful on a stock machine; the OEM controller will manage it. Once you start with the mods you should monitor the boost to make certain things are not getting out of control. On my pickup truck I can use the "instantaneous" MPG readout together with the gear that I am in to get an idea of how much load I am putting on the engine (an early throttle by wire machine, pedal position does not necessarily tell me how hard the engine is working).

Besides the potential to grenade the engine, too much boost can blow your intercooling plumbing apart. My Dad had that happen on his Ford diesel pickup truck (long story).

IMO, exhaust temperature is a more useful measurement (a so called pyrometer). Even some stock machines can get too hot. On a long pull my dump truck got up to 1600F (way above the max recommended temp of 1200F) and it was completely stock (10.4 liter inline 6 in that machine). The exhaust pipe failed immediately there after. Excessive exhaust temperature is your primary indicator that you and/or your mods are pushing your engine too hard. Is exhaust temperature available on the OBD?

Do you ever get any vacuum? I would think that the MultiAir valve train would result in no significant intake manifold vacuum under any condition; essentially just what it takes to pull the air through the air filter and turbo at low throttle settings.
 
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