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anybody who's been on here a long time knows that no one drives faster than lockem, on the most challenging roads in the world - and that was when he was in his protege.

I would be afraid to be anywhere near him, as even anti-lock brakes can't overcome stupid. beaups hasn't been around as long, but anybody who is telling someone they need more brakes to transfer more weight to the front - when it's already washed out ....it does scare me that they make cars so nannied up to protect fools from themselves that the fools start to think they are beyond competent, when the reality is they are beyond incompetent.
I wouldn't want to be anywhere near these guys with a motor vehicle - and I wouldn't want anyone to think they have the faintest idea what they are doing, or any understanding of almost anything they type about, because they don't.

but like the onion, there are always those who will think it's real because they don't know any better.
 

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As prescribed, more insults and no actual logic or data provided to support your position. Although this is new:

telling someone they need more brakes to transfer more weight to the front - when it's already washed out
It's easy to counter someone's argument when you misquote them. When did I state to apply brakes *while* the car is pushing? The idea is to brake late and hold it through the start of the turn....the rear end will come around nicely. And you use the throttle to help straighten the car, not to introduce oversteer.

Have you driven a giulia in these conditions? Do you even own a giulia?

--beaups
 

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Discussion Starter #164
As prescribed, more insults and no actual logic or data provided to support your position. Although this is new:



It's easy to counter someone's argument when you misquote them. When did I state to apply brakes *while* the car is pushing? The idea is to brake late and hold it through the start of the turn....the rear end will come around nicely. And you use the throttle to help straighten the car, not to introduce oversteer.

Have you driven a giulia in these conditions? Do you even own a giulia?

--beaups
Please ignore him, he is big on misquoting and twisting other peoples statements. Just read the non-sense he posted above. Let's not feed the trolls.

According to his posts he owns a Stelvio QV, not a Giulia.
 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
Reminds me of the scandinavian flick: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scandinavian_flick
Those Finnish rally drivers don't know all those formulas but sure know how to drive on low traction
The flick appears to be similar to the speed control techniques that are used when skiing. Makes sense to me...

Correct me if I misinterpret how and why the flick is done.

Oh yeah, the Wikipedia flick article references the same technical paper listed above. In the paper it is called the pendulum turn.
 

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enjoy your ditches, boys.
some refuse to learn, and I'm not wasting anymore of my time trying to get you guys to think - and learn in a safe environment.
 

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Please ignore him, he is big on misquoting and twisting other peoples statements. Just read the non-sense he posted above. Let's not feed the trolls.

According to his posts he owns a Stelvio QV, not a Giulia.
Good advice, thank you.

--beaups
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
Back to the subject of the Blackvue dashcam installation, while I am still wasting time and money on shortening the Blackvue rear camera cable I found this online:

https://www.cdint.com/catalog/model/MC9MC9-174TPR-10

For the positions that I mounted my cameras, this is the right length and much cheaper than DIY after tools, time, etc. Note that the Blackvue cable is twice this length.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Here are the latest updates on my car:
A few weeks after a rock hit the windshield, a crack formed almost all of the way across. Get those chips repaired promptly. I was quoted $1700 for the part and have been waiting almost 5 weeks for it to arrive.

Oil level too high activated 110 miles after an oil change by Dawydiak.
Dawydiak says the 60k miles to spark plug change for MY2019 is retroactive.to earlier model years.
New 3 inch long rim scrape courtesy of Dawydiak (yes, I took a picture).

I replaced a number of lightly loaded fasteners with aluminum. The weight savings is trivial, but the bright aluminum fasteners sure look good. Fasteners that amount to something weight wise include the 6 that hold the top of the front fascia (nearly 1 pound for the 6) and the 19 (!) that hold the front underpan (a couple of pounds worth). These painted steel fasteners tend to rust and have bulky heads that make them heavy. The non-standard shape makes them not so easy to replace with aluminum though, I am still working on it.

The Michelin PS A/S 3+ tires now have over 12000 miles on them and should last several thousand more, compared to the mere 8600 miles that I got out of the OEM tires. Traction is still very good, but they have gotten noisier as they wear. Sonora Pass is finally open, and I was able to peg the "g-meter" at least once on the first try.

The Xpel wrap is showing some signs of wear. A small area around the left rear wheel well has come loose. 3 impacts (2 on the right rocker cover and 1 on the front fascia) cut through the Xpel, but do not appear to have damaged the paint underneath.

My order for a Titanium Fiamenghi exhaust is progressing, albeit slowly. More on this when something is delivered. It should save quite a bit of weight while also providing both loud and quiet noise settings. More on this as it develops.
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
I had to use Google to find this thread. It seems that the new forum software search is even worse than the old software search.

Here are some fun pictures from my most recent drive over the hill.
Somebody at Caltrans thinks they are funny (please pardon the bug smears on the windshield). The sign reads 26% grade ahead
89793


If the above isn't clear enough, that is a downgrade semi-truck warning sign turned 90 degrees so that the truck points almost straight up.

Got snow? Note the date (the time is off for some reason). About 0.6-0.7 gs at the speed shown.

89794
 

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Discussion Starter #172
I have started a quest to determine why my fuel economy is inferior to what other forum members have reported. Cruising at 70MPH on level ground I get 30MPG indicated, while other members report 35-37MPG.

My first check was to replace the spark plugs. This took me about an hour, including the time required to find the tools and figure out what I was doing. Notes beyond what @Alfissimo has posted:

The turbo bypass vent pipe needs to be disconnected. I found that a stout trim tool does a good job of prying this rubber hose loose without any concern about prying against the expensive, plastic intake duct. You need pliers to deal with the hose clamp.

The electric connector on the ignition coils defied removal. There was enough slack on all of the pigtails to remove the coils, so this did not get in the way of completing the work.

The electric connector on the turbo bypass solenoid needs to be disconnected. It was in the way of both #2 and #3 cylinder work. I have a GFB DV+ valve, without which cylinder #3 may have been accessible without disconnecting the connector.

None of the spark plugs showed significant wear. All of them showed a little carbon, although #4 was cleaner than the others.

#2 plug was not as tight as the others.

All of the plugs had some yellow di-electric gel on the top.

All of the new and old plugs were gapped correctly.

When I pulled the #4 coil an oak tree leaf and a ball of fuzz popped out. I looked around but did not see any more detritus nor any evidence regarding how it got there.

I did not notice any improvement in fuel economy after this work.

Hopefully I will be able to check that the rear differential turns freely and has good lubrication in it next weekend.
 

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I have started a quest to determine why my fuel economy is inferior to what other forum members have reported. Cruising at 70MPH on level ground I get 30MPG indicated, while other members report 35-37MPG.

My first check was to replace the spark plugs. This took me about an hour, including the time required to find the tools and figure out what I was doing. Notes beyond what @Alfissimo has posted:

The turbo bypass vent pipe needs to be disconnected. I found that a stout trim tool does a good job of prying this rubber hose loose without any concern about prying against the expensive, plastic intake duct. You need pliers to deal with the hose clamp.

The electric connector on the ignition coils defied removal. There was enough slack on all of the pigtails to remove the coils, so this did not get in the way of completing the work.

The electric connector on the turbo bypass solenoid needs to be disconnected. It was in the way of both #2 and #3 cylinder work. I have a GFB DV+ valve, without which cylinder #3 may have been accessible without disconnecting the connector.

None of the spark plugs showed significant wear. All of them showed a little carbon, although #4 was cleaner than the others.

#2 plug was not as tight as the others.

All of the plugs had some yellow di-electric gel on the top.

All of the new and old plugs were gapped correctly.

When I pulled the #4 coil an oak tree leaf and a ball of fuzz popped out. I looked around but did not see any more detritus nor any evidence regarding how it got there.

I did not notice any improvement in fuel economy after this work.

Hopefully I will be able to check that the rear differential turns freely and has good lubrication in it next weekend.
Lately mine has settled down to about 28-30 normally. Longer trips will get me to only 32 now. You're not too far off. Do you take advantage of sailing? I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
Lately mine has settled down to about 28-30 normally. Longer trips will get me to only 32 now. You're not too far off. Do you take advantage of sailing? I do.
The stated fuel economy that I get is in A mode, cruise control enabled. I do not know of any way to tell the car to engage sailing, but it will only enter sailing mode in A. On level ground I do not observe sailing mode engaging.

When my Dodge RAM NVG manual 6 speed transmission started shifting poorly I changed the oil and discovered severe water contamination. This issue has not happened again and after the (rather pricey) oil change the transmission has worked properly. I do not know how the water got in the transmission. Based on that experience I at least want to check that the oil in the various gear boxes in my Giulia Q4 is good.
 

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The stated fuel economy that I get is in A mode, cruise control enabled. I do not know of any way to tell the car to engage sailing, but it will only enter sailing mode in A. On level ground I do not observe sailing mode engaging.

When my Dodge RAM NVG manual 6 speed transmission started shifting poorly I changed the oil and discovered severe water contamination. This issue has not happened again and after the (rather pricey) oil change the transmission has worked properly. I do not know how the water got in the transmission. Based on that experience I at least want to check that the oil in the various gear boxes in my Giulia Q4 is good.
I use cruise control also, but when I know that I'm going to be coasting down hill I just disable cruise and sailing kicks in (>60MPH). It's a little more interaction than I would like, but it's not like it's busy on the highway when I'm using cruise.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
What is wrong with this picture (besides being blurry)?
91470

Once there is less than 4mm of brake pad left, won't the rotor cut into the brake wear sensor wire? What am I missing?
 

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What is wrong with this picture (besides being blurry)?
View attachment 91470
Once there is less than 4mm of brake pad left, won't the rotor cut into the brake wear sensor wire? What am I missing?
That's basically the idea. Wire shorted to ground (rotor) is the what trips the pad replacement message. It's quite archaic compared to comparable systems, but there's really no excuse to need an alert on a fixed caliper setup (IMO).
 

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Discussion Starter #178
That's basically the idea. Wire shorted to ground (rotor) is the what trips the pad replacement message. It's quite archaic compared to comparable systems, but there's really no excuse to need an alert on a fixed caliper setup (IMO).
So since my light just came on (I was hoping to change the pads at the same time as my oil, in 2000 miles) does that mean that I still have a relatively generous 4mm of pad left? Are the pads riveted to the plates, or glued on? I see about 4mm left on the outer pads.

On the 2.0T NAFTA Giulia (all 4 cylinder Giulia?) the front calipers are fixed 4 piston (from the rear brakes of the QV?), but the rear calipers are sliding. The picture is for a rear brake, although the front sensors are similar in design.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
I finished installing new brake pads. All of them were worn down to the sensors and one was worn down to about 1mm at one corner. I drove a gentle 500 miles after the service pads light came on. As others have noticed, brake pad wear on the multi-piston solid mount calipers tends to be uneven. Some of the pads had irregular wear as well (rough spots, grooves). Once the service brake pads light was on solid, I got a static on AM radio stations when braking.

Be sure to open your hood before you lift the car, or use 2 jacks or a proper shop lift to lift the car evenly. Otherwise you may find that the hood will not open.
The hydraulic fluid reservoir seems to be pretty generous, so I did not have any overflow issues even though the fluid had been topped up at 20,000 miles for the brake line recall.
Maybe it is just me, but the car seems quieter now.
The piston retractor tool that I bought worked well on the fronts, but I found that removing the outside pad and inserting a crowbar in it's place worked best for the rears.

After reconnecting the battery and getting the usual Christmas tree of death on the first start up, I had the car ignore the interior door lock button (3rd startup, no warning lights). It would neither lock nor unlock. It worked fine when I started the car again the next day. Perhaps this proves that it is an Alfa?

How much lash are the axles supposed to have? I could turn the wheel about 2" at the tread to take up lash. That seems like a lot to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
I changed the oil in Giulia myself (first time I did the work) today (38500 miles). It took about 1.5 hours including checking oil level, resetting service interval, finding tools. The used oil was brown-ish rather than black. The new oil strongly resembled Maple syrup ready to pour on pancakes.

I bought Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 from Qwest on Trimble in San Jose. Beware, their out of date credit card reader was rejected by my credit card company.

I filled only 5 quarts in spite of the engine capacity being 5.5 quarts. This yielded 1 tick below max.

I added oil to the filter before installing it. Due to the angle of the filter, it can only be filled half way or the oil will spill out during installation. The tiny oil filter acted like a TARDIS and took an amazing amount of oil to get to the 1/2 full level. Removing the old oil filter was the only messy operation, as it is angled and quite a bit of oil runs down the outside of the filter while you unscrew it.

The oil pan plug has a rubber seal. I probably should keep a spare on hand, just in case.

Don't forget that the intake valves of the 2.0T are operated by oil pressure. The car may hickup once or twice to clear air from the lines when it is first started. Pre-filling the filter should reduce this behavior.

My previous oil change was at Dawydiak S.F. I had asked them to replace a missing underpan screw (very long, boring story), which they promised to do at no charge. Not only was the screw still missing but most of the other screws were barely hand tight. Some were loose (threaded in but not seated). I think only 2 were tightened. It is a good idea to count bolts when tightening, it is very easy to miss one. There are a total of 19, unless you are missing one...

Also, the oil change reminder is 9600 miles (16k km), not the 10,000 stated in the manual.

Lots of scrapes on the underside of my front fascia <sigh>. None visible from the top.
 
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