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I changed the oil in Giulia myself (first time I did the work) today (38500 miles). It took about 1.5 hours including checking oil level, resetting service interval, finding tools. The used oil was brown-ish rather than black. The new oil strongly resembled Maple syrup ready to pour on pancakes.

I bought Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 from Qwest on Trimble in San Jose. Beware, their out of date credit card reader was rejected by my credit card company.

I filled only 5 quarts in spite of the engine capacity being 5.5 quarts. This yielded 1 tick below max.

I added oil to the filter before installing it. Due to the angle of the filter, it can only be filled half way or the oil will spill out during installation. The tiny oil filter acted like a TARDIS and took an amazing amount of oil to get to the 1/2 full level. Removing the old oil filter was the only messy operation, as it is angled and quite a bit of oil runs down the outside of the filter while you unscrew it.

The oil pan plug has a rubber seal. I probably should keep a spare on hand, just in case.

Don't forget that the intake valves of the 2.0T are operated by oil pressure. The car may hickup once or twice to clear air from the lines when it is first started. Pre-filling the filter should reduce this behavior.

My previous oil change was at Dawydiak S.F. I had asked them to replace a missing underpan screw (very long, boring story), which they promised to do at no charge. Not only was the screw still missing but most of the other screws were barely hand tight. Some were loose (threaded in but not seated). I think only 2 were tightened. It is a good idea to count bolts when tightening, it is very easy to miss one. There are a total of 19, unless you are missing one...

Also, the oil change reminder is 9600 miles (16k km), not the 10,000 stated in the manual.

Lots of scrapes on the underside of my front fascia <sigh>. None visible from the top.
Mine took 6 quarts to get to full. Good tips!
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Mine took 6 quarts to get to full. Good tips!
Although not indicated in the service manual, maybe the RWD oil pan is bigger? Q4 left front half shaft runs through the oil pan.
I'll be carrying a spare quart anyway, given that "overfilled" was not indicated on my previous oil change for over 100 miles.
 

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Although not indicated in the service manual, maybe the RWD oil pan is bigger? Q4 left front half shaft runs through the oil pan.
I'll be carrying a spare quart anyway, given that "overfilled" was not indicated on my previous oil change for over 100 miles.
I'm Q4, so I don't think so.

I used MES graphing to read the level, btw. I was scared of going over.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I'm Q4, so I don't think so.

I used MES graphing to read the level, btw. I was scared of going over.
Hmmm, I jacked up only the front of the car when I drained the oil. The oil plug is near the rear of the oil pan, but not all of the way back. I wonder if I could have trapped a bit of dirty oil at the back of the pan.
 

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nah, insignificant amount.

I jacked up only the front, and when I rear the level I had jacked up the rear in order to get it a little closer to level.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Continuing my saga of HVAC issues with the car getting very warm inside when it is cold outside. It was -4F in Hope Valley tonight, according to the exterior thermometer. The nearest weather station is reporting 0F, but that area was "warmer" according to the thermometer in Giulia. Thus, I do not think there is any fault with my exterior thermometer. I had to set the interior temperature control to max cool to get a tolerable interior temperature. Max cool also turns the fan up to max, making the interior noisy and windy. Further down the road it warmed up to 19F and a temperature setting of 63F produced comfortable air. I was wearing a long sleeved shirt and jeans, no jacket so it is not as if my warm clothes were the cause of this fault.

Is anybody else experiencing this craziness?
 

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Continuing my saga of HVAC issues with the car getting very warm inside when it is cold outside. It was -4F in Hope Valley tonight, according to the exterior thermometer. The nearest weather station is reporting 0F, but that area was "warmer" according to the thermometer in Giulia. Thus, I do not think there is any fault with my exterior thermometer. I had to set the interior temperature control to max cool to get a tolerable interior temperature. Max cool also turns the fan up to max, making the interior noisy and windy. Further down the road it warmed up to 19F and a temperature setting of 63F produced comfortable air. I was wearing a long sleeved shirt and jeans, no jacket so it is not as if my warm clothes were the cause of this fault.

Is anybody else experiencing this craziness?
Sounds like the issue is in one of your internal thermometers...
Can you read them with MES?
 

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Discussion Starter #188
MES says some curious things, nothing definitive though. This is with the car inside my 45F garage, 1.5 hours after having driven it. The car is on, but the engine is not running.

Requested air temperature is set to 64F but MES shows 64C. This seems likely to be an MES issue, but maybe I should try setting the system to metric units?
My always too warm wife took the system out of "sync" mode and set the passenger side to 71F. That might be contributing to the issue in Hope Valley but it is not the cause since I am having problems with overheating when the outside air is cold when the system is in SYNC.
Left distribution air flap reports as 0% while right distribution air flap reports as 100%. Other flaps report as middle of range. I get plenty of air on the left side when I am on the road. Maybe the system is confused regarding which side is getting heat?
All temperature sensor values are plausible. Of course the interior of the car is still warmer than the outside temp.
Sunshine sensors report as 0, as they should. I usually drive at night, so that 0 should not be a problem. Reading too high would cause the interior to be cold, not hot.
 

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I find my car getting warmer and warmer during summer drives, almost as if the air conditioning is growing weary. Maybe something similar? Hoping for better A/C performance in my 2020 MY.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
I find my car getting warmer and warmer during summer drives, almost as if the air conditioning is growing weary. Maybe something similar? Hoping for better A/C performance in my 2020 MY.
In your case I would guess that the evaporator is icing up. Do you have the fix installed (an update to the FW)? Presumably a defrost cycle needs to be run from time to time.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
nah, insignificant amount.

I jacked up only the front, and when I rear the level I had jacked up the rear in order to get it a little closer to level.
Now my confidence in the electronic readout has fallen. After 5000 miles of driving I noticed that the oil fill changed from the mid point to 1 tick lower. So I added 8 ounces of oil (1/4 quart). I expected this to be enough to raise the reading at least 2 ticks. 250 miles later, the reading has not changed.
 

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In your case I would guess that the evaporator is icing up. Do you have the fix installed (an update to the FW)? Presumably a defrost cycle needs to be run from time to time.
FW? If I recall correctly, one of the recalls addressed had to do with HVAC.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
FW? If I recall correctly, one of the recalls addressed had to do with HVAC.
Firm Ware: Semi-permanent software such as-is found in every computer in your car.
 

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I just got my car back from Walnut Creek Alfa. Nice operation, easy to get to, rental car provided, McLaren show room next to the service desk...

They installed the 85 update to the FW, so I now have the larger rear view camera and hopefully fewer problems with the system restarting and/or turning on by itself and draining the battery. I do not have the menu option to disable easy exit. I do have the really loud chime for the lane departure warning now. It seems a little more "trigger happy" than before.

Strange comment by the service desk guy: he said he had never seen a Giulia that was not tracked that needed brake pad replacement. He thought my brake wear was normal until I pointed out that I had replaced the pads fairly recently myself.
 

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I just got my car back from Walnut Creek Alfa. Nice operation, easy to get to, rental car provided, McLaren show room next to the service desk...

They installed the 85 update to the FW, so I now have the larger rear view camera and hopefully fewer problems with the system restarting and/or turning on by itself and draining the battery. I do not have the menu option to disable easy exit. I do have the really loud chime for the lane departure warning now. It seems a little more "trigger happy" than before.

Strange comment by the service desk guy: he said he had never seen a Giulia that was not tracked that needed brake pad replacement. He thought my brake wear was normal until I pointed out that I had replaced the pads fairly recently myself.
Since the 085 update, I have had no random reboots. Regarding the dead battery issue that I have experienced a few times, I really think it was my android phone maintaining a phone call connection. there have been more than a few times where I get in the car, start it up, plug in my phone to the USB cable, AA starts up, and I have no audio. Turns out that somehow it has made a phone call... to my number. If I hang up using the Phone button on the steering wheel, it disconnects and I get audio back. Really weird, and could totally be my phone doing it, not the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Since the 085 update, I have had no random reboots. Regarding the dead battery issue that I have experienced a few times, I really think it was my android phone maintaining a phone call connection. there have been more than a few times where I get in the car, start it up, plug in my phone to the USB cable, AA starts up, and I have no audio. Turns out that somehow it has made a phone call... to my number. If I hang up using the Phone button on the steering wheel, it disconnects and I get audio back. Really weird, and could totally be my phone doing it, not the car.
I have had the following happen with 56 FW:

Car running, AA cable attached, make a phone call. Callee hangs up; I hang up at the same time, using the button on the steering wheel. Radio/media is now silent. This probably requires precise timing so it is likely difficult to replicate. I also got the silent treatment when I drove out of cell tower range during a call. In either case unplugging and re-plugging the phone cleared the fault. I suspect that this is the same bug as the radio coming on after the car has been exited, but do not know.

The bluetooth in Giulia has an extraordinary range. If I install my EC tune while the infotainment system is turned on (not recommended) my phone sees bluetooth going up and down while the phone is 50 feet away from the car.

I sure hope that version 85 resolves some of these issues. It is not as-if they happen frequently but they are annoying and the dead battery thing can become a big issue depending on where the car is at the time.
 
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Discussion Starter #197
I'm not sure how much of this is my phone and how much is the 85 FW update.

With the car running, terminate phone call allowing the far end to drop, I got the silent treatment from Giulia. Once I pushed the disconnect button on the steering wheel the audio came back on, but it switched to "media" when I had been listening to the radio.

I now seem to get advertisements for tunes available from google, popping up on the top of the screen of my navigation map. That is clearly a google issue with their latest new and degraded OTA update.

To go with that, when I got out of range of the radio station I switched to "media" and got such a google tune rather than the tunes on my flash. I did nothing to select said google tunes, although there is some chance that with my phone stowed in my armrest cubby something inside the cubby managed to randomly do said selection.
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Maybe here is part of why the MY2018 Giulia service manual is no longer available:

The 2.0T muffler removal instructions are incomplete and incorrect. Instructions that the muffler removal instructions need to reference are also missing or at least I cannot find it. Thus, try one to install my Fiamenghi Titanium exhaust was a fail. As far as I can tell:

Remove rear belly pan (instructions only say remove rear side belly pan--singular)**
Remove rear side belly pans.
Remove rear fascia and diffuser (no mention of this in muffler removal and no instructions in the manual)*.
Take 4 muffler bracket bolts loose. Two of these cannot be reached without removing the fascia--as far as I can tell anyway.
Take center exhaust pipe clamp loose.
Swear at the thing and bust knuckles until you can get the center joint apart and the center muffler support rubber off of its hanger.
My OEM exhaust pipe has a lot of rust on it--it is not $$.

* I stopped here because this is a delicate project best done with instructions and a helper. Maybe there is a way to get the hanger rubbers off without taking the bracket loose?
** Some vents in my rear center belly pan were defective (plugged with plastic) as made. The pan had a handful of dirt and rocks on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
OK, I gave up and hired Larry Jr. at Alfa Parts Exchange (APE) to install my Fiamenghi Titanium exhaust. He took the rear fascia off (it snaps on) to get clear access to the muffler. Removing the rear fascia is definitely a 2 person job. Without 2 people to do the job there is a substantial chance of damaging the fascia. Somehow I managed to forget to bring the wiring harness for the valve, so I drove the car for a while "wide open". Curiously outside of the car it measured only 5dB louder than stock, but inside of the car it was much louder.

Here are some pictures I took after I reopened things to install the wiring harness.
94744

94745


Note the cast titanium valve body and the minimized number of welds. There is a little bit of blueing on the welds, but nothing out of control.

I forgot to weigh it <sigh>. It certainly weighs less than 10 pounds while the OEM parts weigh in excess of 20 pounds.

About the valve, which I have partially working:
With the valve closed the interior of the car varies from a little quieter to a little louder than OEM. In this position plus D mode plus full throttle I got an alarmingly loud hissing sound. It is probably not a good thing to do, even though I did not get a CEL.

WIth the valve open the interior of the car varies from pretty loud (low RPM) to only modestly louder than OEM.

What Larry did:

Put car on rack (very helpful).
Remove rear wheels.
Remove 3 rear underpans. The center pan is very straightforward. The side pans have one of those push pin plastic rivets to swear at; the pin is at the lower rear corner of the wheel well, plus the one on the right has the vent hose for the battery attached to it. Larry had three tools on hand for dealing with those rivets; if one doesn't work try the next and if worst comes to worst the rivets are cheap and readily available.
Remove rear fascia. First remove several more of those plastic rivets at the back edge of the wheel well. This is why the wheels were removed. Once all of the rivets are out, the rest of the fascia is held in with snaps and it is removed by pulling on it. 3 wiring connectors have to be disconnected and if you don't have a helper to hold the fascia up you have a problem.
Next up is the muffler. Take 4 bolts out to loosen the hangers take the joint to the rear of the resonator loose, pop the rubber off of the hanger between this joint and the muffler, and then the grunting starts. It helps to have some tall jacks that can support the muffler while you twist and yank and hammer on it. There are advantages to replacing the entire exhaust rather than axle back. Be careful to not bend the two fragile bodywork support brackets that hang immediately behind the muffler.

As an extra plus, when Larry re-installed everything the rear fascia mated up to the rear fenders more accurately than as-delivered.

Fabio Fiamenghi suggested a different method of removing the muffler. Instead of removing the rear fascia take the three nuts off that hold each fake tip in place. Slide the tip forward to gain access to the plastic spring clips that hold the panels that hold the fake tips in place. Unclip the plastic panels, then you can remove the fake tip, gain access to the rear muffler hanger bolt and gain some ability to slide the muffler backwards to disconnect joints. This trick should be very handy for installing real tips without removing the muffler.
 
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