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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've noticed the "new" "used" Giulia I picked up, the steering wheel is slightly off centered. I read where there is procedure to "reset" the steering after the battery is disconnected. Wonder if this was ever "not" done at some point in time resulting in the issue or if there is another adjustment issue with the rack down below. Would disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and performing the reset procedure likely correct this? Do I need to let the car sit a certain time disconnected to trigger the reset mode?
 

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I've saw that 'reset' video clip on youtube, it may be done by one of the performance tuner vendor. Basically after disconnect the battery the guy plug in some sort of electronics for the performance, then 'reset' the steering as the last part of the procedure. Good luck to you and I am sure the nearest dealer should also be taken care of you and your Giulia.
 

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The fact that your steering wheel is not centered is probably not good news....reset you are talking about is about electric assistance SW....it would not center the wheel...on a new car off center steering is most likely consequence of something bent up front....get your car checked by dealer..also you can check yourself if there is any visible uneven wear on tires or if the wheels are curbed and repaired
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll have to get it on the lift and check the tie rods once I get the TR4 down from it - seems like that project is just going, and going, and going ...

No uneven wear or damage to wheels. Just ever so slightly center position to the left of center.
 

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It could be just clumsy adjustment in the factory and poor QC....alignment could solve that plus you would get peace of mind that geometry is ok up front......is the angle off center big enough that it could be consequence of somebody just reinstalling the steering wheel one dent too much to the left after removing it?
 

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I'll have to get it on the lift and check the tie rods once I get the TR4 down from it - seems like that project is just going, and going, and going ...

No uneven wear or damage to wheels. Just ever so slightly center position to the left of center.
Take it back and have them do an alignment, talk to your salesman first or pre-owned manager, they should be footing the bill. Ask for the print out of before and after as well. There’s no point checking tie rods, leave it to them, they sold the car.
 

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When I installed the red start stop button, I removed the steering wheel on my 2.0 which was perfectly centred. On refitting and resetting it was slight off to the right. I mean very slightly off but enough to annoy me!

The steering requires resetting everytime the battery is disconnected or of it had lost charge. I then repeated the reset more carefully and it centred correctly on second attempt. Here is what I did.
Remember to do this on a flat surface, as the first time I did it on my drive which had a slight incline. Second time it was on a flat car park. Not sure if that makes any difference but I mention it just in case it matters.


Disconnect battery -ve quick connector in the trunk - REMEMBER to leave Trunk open at all times.
Wait a few seconds and Reconnect battery -ve post.
Switch ignition on and wait for various warnings.
Start Car and wait a few seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD LEFT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD RIGHT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Return Steering back to exact MIDDLE.
Switch engine off and ignition off.

Swicth ignition ON and restart engine and go for a drive to check if it has centred.
REPEAT Steps if necessary. Mine reset correctly after a couple of tries. Hope this helps. If not a trip to dealer is warranted.
 

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When I installed the red start stop button, I removed the steering wheel on my 2.0 which was perfectly centred. On refitting and resetting it was slight off to the right. I mean very slightly off but enough to annoy me!

The steering requires resetting everytime the battery is disconnected or of it had lost charge. I then repeated the reset more carefully and it centred correctly on second attempt. Here is what I did.
Remember to do this on a flat surface, as the first time I did it on my drive which had a slight incline. Second time it was on a flat car park. Not sure if that makes any difference but I mention it just in case it matters.


Disconnect battery -ve quick connector in the trunk - REMEMBER to leave Trunk open at all times.
Wait a few seconds and Reconnect battery -ve post.
Switch ignition on and wait for various warnings.
Start Car and wait a few seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD LEFT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD RIGHT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Return Steering back to exact MIDDLE.
Switch engine off and ignition off.

Swicth ignition ON and restart engine and go for a drive to check if it has centred.
REPEAT Steps if necessary. Mine reset correctly after a couple of tries. Hope this helps. If not a trip to dealer is warranted.
+1!

Had the exact same issue after installing the red start/stop, and fixed it with pretty much this exact method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gracie. Two attempts, will retry again tomorrow morning. May leave it "just to the right of center" before turning it off since it always seems to stay a tick over to the left of center.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ironically the dealer emailed today to bring it in as they said there is another procedure but it had to be hooked up to a computer ... going to try and get in tomorrow and keep you all posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, after hooking it up to the computer the dealer can't get it centered either. They suggested an alignment - but all 4 tires with 6500 miles are wearing even. If it was a toe, I would think the tire would be cupped at this point in time. Wonder if the previous owner had taken the wheel off and possibly reinstalled it over one gear notch? Haven't had the wheel off so I am unsure how big the gears are. Thought about removing it (I hear it's fairly easy), marking it, and reinstalling one notch to the right.
 

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Mine was off-center also when I took delivery. I took it in to the service dept and they fixed it. They said that the alignment was off. No charge. No receipt either - they said they didn't know how to charge Alfa Romeo for it /)
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All the software AR updates have been done - still no luck. Tech took it out and said what I already know - it tracks straight, no uneven wear on the tires, but it is slightly cocked to the left. TBC I suppose. My attempts to manually short it left and right using the centering procedure no luck either.
 

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2018 Q4 with Fiamenghi Ti exhaust, Race Mod, and Tecnico wheels.
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All the software AR updates have been done - still no luck. Tech took it out and said what I already know - it tracks straight, no uneven wear on the tires, but it is slightly cocked to the left. TBC I suppose. My attempts to manually short it left and right using the centering procedure no luck either.
This car is not steer by wire. It has electronic power steering with a fairly ordinary rack-and-pinion steering mechanism (mounted is a massive aluminum housing that spans nearly the full width of the car just in front of the engine block, btw).

Without steer by wire, there is no way a computer alone can center the steering. The computer can correct for a pull to one side or the other, but that is a different issue.

On each end of the rack there is a short, ordinary adjustable "tie rod end" (I put this in quotes because there is no actual tie rod, so how can there be a tie rod end). These can be adjusted to center the steering wheel a small, symmetrical amount (shorten the left and lengthen the right by equal amounts, or vice-versa) at a time. It may be necessary to repeat the electronic centering procedure to stop the EPS from pulling to one side after each tie rod end adjustment.

Any alignment shop worth a dam should be able to do this procedure and should know exactly what is needed without being told.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will have a go at it then. Thanks. Why AR didn't do attempt it while it was in w/o committing to a full alignment - I dunno. I didn't want to get hit with $400 alignment they were going to charge, and they were worried they would get it from AR. Mexican stand off I suppose.
 

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The steering requires resetting everytime the battery is disconnected or of it had lost charge. I then repeated the reset more carefully and it centred correctly on second attempt. Here is what I did.
Remember to do this on a flat surface, as the first time I did it on my drive which had a slight incline. Second time it was on a flat car park. Not sure if that makes any difference but I mention it just in case it matters.


Disconnect battery -ve quick connector in the trunk - REMEMBER to leave Trunk open at all times.
Wait a few seconds and Reconnect battery -ve post.
Switch ignition on and wait for various warnings.
Start Car and wait a few seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD LEFT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Turn Steering Wheel to FULL LOCK HARD RIGHT. I held it steady for ~20 seconds.
Return Steering back to exact MIDDLE.
Switch engine off and ignition off.

Swicth ignition ON and restart engine and go for a drive to check if it has centred.
REPEAT Steps if necessary. Mine reset correctly after a couple of tries. Hope this helps. If not a trip to dealer is warranted.
This is interesting. I checked the service manual and it doesn't really say that this is the way to do it.
Here's what it says to verify the power steering.

EPS VERIFICATION TEST
1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Remove all test equipment.
3. Connect all previously disconnected components and connectors.
4. Verify all accessories are turned off, the battery is fully charged and the charging system has a status of "charged".
5. Verify that the ignition is on. With the scan tool, record and erase all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) from all
modules. Start the engine and allow it to run for two minutes and fully operate the system that was indicating the
failure.
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, holding at each stop position for One second.
6. Turn the ignition off and wait five minutes. Turn the ignition on and using the scan tool, read DTCs from all modules.
7. If there are no DTCs present after turning ignition on, road test the vehicle for at least five minutes.
8. Again, with the scan tool read DTCs. If any DTCs are present, refer to the Table of Contents in the applicable section
for the Diagnostic procedure and troubleshoot the new or recurring symptom.
9. If there are no DTCs present and the customer's concern can no longer be duplicated, the repair is complete.
Are any DTCs present or is the original concern still present?
Yes • Perform the appropriate diagnostic procedure. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Electric
Power Steering (EPS)/Diagnosis and Testing) .
No • Repair is complete.
Elsewhere it says to
perform the Clear Steering Pull Compensation and
Vehicle Trim procedures
, but it doesn't really say how to do that. It does refer to that above section, so maybe that's it.

With the multiECUscan software, there is a way to perform Steering Position Sensor Calibration. The insructions say:
Control unit self-learning of steering wheel position. The front wheels must be straight to calibrate correctly.
NOTE: The conditions for performing the procedure are:
- Position the vehicle on a flat surface
- Vehicle stationary
- Turn the steering wheel to the centre position, with the wheels straight
- Do not apply loads to the steering wheel
To ensure the Position Sensor is calibrated correctly, check that when the vehicle is travelling (30 kph) the steering wheel returns to the central position (with a tolerance of +/-20 degrees of the steering wheel) when it is fully turned either right or left.
This does not involve turning the wheel lock to lock, but does perform an adjustment in the EPS computer.
 

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There are basically teo issues that could be at play....either connecting rods are not adjusted properly so that sterring wheel is not centered when driving straight as Lockem pointed out.....or EPS thinks that center is slightly off the real center...in this case it pulls in the opposite side....EPS is, unlike hydraulic assist, basically inactive when wheel is centered and only works when you are actually steering...,that was main reason for switch by most manufacturers, fuel efficiency can rise substantially when you do not have to power another hydraulic pump all the time....

If at service they were unable to adjust true center position for EPS, connecting rods most likely need to be adjusted so that wheel is centered when going straight...we are talking mm on each side, as lockem said any alignment tech can do this within minutes, specially if geometry is otherwise well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Managed to turn 2 flats out on the driver and 2 flats in on the passenger side and seems to how be centered - unfortunately - managed to pick up a screw in the rear tire and didn't get a chance to test drive it very much. Wheel is off and off to the high end tire place in the morning to see if they can plug and patch it. Otherwise, new Michelin Super Pilots are going on earlier than anticipated.
 
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