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I completed the spring replacement today, going from the 2018 springs to the factory 2017 springs. Good news is that I was able to replace the rear springs without disassembling any of the suspension pieces. Not so good news is that it only lowered the car about 1/4". I'm hoping that after settling it will lower it another 1/4" - then I'll be happy.
Here are a few tips if anyone is trying this on their own.

Rears
- I removed a sensor wire and brake line bracket that were in the way
- I used these spring compressors from Amazon. They allowed me to fit both of them onto the spring at about a 120 degree angle to each other. The nut head of the compressor goes at the top.
- Once the spring is compressed, I removed the bottom of the spring first, after separating the rubber pad
- Positioning the compressors onto the new spring is critical. I marked the bottom rubber pad to show me where the rods of the compressor should go.
- Fit the bottom rubber pad onto the base first and then put the spring in top first and then bottom. Get the tabs on the bottom pad in place before releasing tension.
- These take a while and require a lot of manual wrenching.
- No need to replace any bolts with new ones since no bolts were removed! This was fortunate since the bolts I ordered did not match the picture or description in the parts diagram. The diagram is very vague as it just shows pictures of the bolts floating in space and does not show where they go.

Fronts
- I followed the procedure in the manual removing the 3 upper strut bolts, the lower strut bolt, the stabilizer link nut and upper control arm to knuckle bolt.
- I also disconnected wires and brake line bracket that were in the way.
- Once the strut is out, and the spring is compressed on the bench, the tricky part is removing the upper bolt. There is a wire going through the center of the rod. I used a pass-through 5/8" socket on the outer nut along with a 9mm 1/4 socket that I drilled the center out of for the inner nut. I used small vise grips to hold the 9mm socket. This works until the very end of travel. Then I had to use a box end wrench on the outer nut.
- When installing, I used new bolts and nuts for the suspension pieces as indicated in the manual. The torques are given in the manual as XX ft lb + YY degrees of rotation.
- On the first side I did, I put the rubber shield on upside down which is a bummer since I didn't realize it until after I tightened all the 1-time use bolts. I'll have to order another set and re-do it.

Not a terrible job, but not too fun either. I'll report back in a couple weeks to let you know if the springs settle in at all.
Great job.

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I measured again today, a week later. Now It’s about 1/2” lower than the original 2018 spring - a little more in the front and a little less in the rear.


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Verrilli are you satisfied with this? Is the drop balanced? Would you want to go lower?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Verrilli are you satisfied with this? Is the drop balanced? Would you want to go lower?
Yes, I’m satisfied. I would not want it any lower. The car feels just as balanced as with the original springs.


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I completed the spring replacement today, going from the 2018 springs to the factory 2017 springs. Good news is that I was able to replace the rear springs without disassembling any of the suspension pieces. Not so good news is that it only lowered the car about 1/4". I'm hoping that after settling it will lower it another 1/4" - then I'll be happy.
Here are a few tips if anyone is trying this on their own.

Rears
  • I removed a sensor wire and brake line bracket that were in the way
  • I used spring compressors from Amazon. They allowed me to fit both of them onto the spring at about a 120 degree angle to each other. The nut head of the compressor goes at the top.
  • Once the spring is compressed, I removed the bottom of the spring first, after separating the rubber pad
  • Positioning the compressors onto the new spring is critical. I marked the bottom rubber pad to show me where the rods of the compressor should go.
  • Fit the bottom rubber pad onto the base first and then put the spring in top first and then bottom. Get the tabs on the bottom pad in place before releasing tension.
  • These take a while and require a lot of manual wrenching.
  • No need to replace any bolts with new ones since no bolts were removed! This was fortunate since the bolts I ordered did not match the picture or description in the parts diagram. The diagram is very vague as it just shows pictures of the bolts floating in space and does not show where they go.
Fronts
  • I followed the procedure in the manual removing the 3 upper strut bolts, the lower strut bolt, the stabilizer link nut and upper control arm to knuckle bolt.
  • I also disconnected wires and brake line bracket that were in the way.
  • Once the strut is out, and the spring is compressed on the bench, the tricky part is removing the upper bolt. There is a wire going through the center of the rod. I used a pass-through 5/8" socket on the outer nut along with a 9mm 1/4 socket that I drilled the center out of for the inner nut. I used small vise grips to hold the 9mm socket. This works until the very end of travel. Then I had to use a box end wrench on the outer nut.
  • When installing, I used new bolts and nuts for the suspension pieces as indicated in the manual. The torques are given in the manual as XX ft lb + YY degrees of rotation.
  • On the first side I did, I put the rubber shield on upside down which is a bummer since I didn't realize it until after I tightened all the 1-time use bolts. I'll have to order another set and re-do it.
Not a terrible job, but not too fun either. I'll report back in a couple weeks to let you know if the springs settle in at all.
Any chance you can tell me what the torque and turn specs are these bolts?

I ordered the bolt pack and spring part numbers as listed in the tsb(or bulletin). I assume that’s all the bolts I need. Not having to undo the ones it the rear is all the better. Also, can you link which spring clamps you used?

many thanks for the lessons learned write up here.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Any chance you can tell me what the torque and turn specs are these bolts?

I ordered the bolt pack and spring part numbers as listed in the tsb(or bulletin). I assume that’s all the bolts I need. Not having to undo the ones it the rear is all the better. Also, can you link which spring clamps you used?

many thanks for the lessons learned write up here.
Here's a link to the spring compressor I used

Attaching torque specs
The front knuckle to upper control arm spec seems to be missing so I used 44 ft-lb + 90 degrees

For the rear springs, it's a real pain to get the spring pads aligned when reinstalling. It takes some trial and error, lots of grunt work and patience. Down side is the special alignment procedure when reinstalling. You may want to consider using the service manual procedure since you have the bolt kit anyway.
 

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Here's a link to the spring compressor I used

Attaching torque specs
The front knuckle to upper control arm spec seems to be missing so I used 44 ft-lb + 90 degrees

For the rear springs, it's a real pain to get the spring pads aligned when reinstalling. It takes some trial and error, lots of grunt work and patience. Down side is the special alignment procedure when reinstalling. You may want to consider using the service manual procedure since you have the bolt kit anyway.
Thanks a bunch. So you have to do the special alignment procedure even if you don’t undo any of the bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks a bunch. So you have to do the special alignment procedure even if you don’t undo any of the bolts?
No. If you don't remove the bolts on the rear, then you don't need to align the hub.
 

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No. If you don't remove the bolts on the rear, then you don't need to align the hub.
I would still do the alignment procedure. You're altering the ride height and therefor the resting position of the various parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #30

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I was referring to the rear hub alignment procedure given in the service manual, not the general wheel alignment. See page 7 of attached.
I would also do wheel alignment after replacing springs regardless of the method.
I know what you're talking about, and upon further inspection, you are probably correct. Not needed :D
 

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Does anyone know the size of the strut top hat nut?

verrrilli mentioned using a 5/8. I was going to order a pass through socket for doing the job this weekend. But I can’t find the actual size anywhere. I’d perfer to order the correct size for the nut. There’s no easy way for me to tell without removing the strut. It’s covered when installed.

94284
 

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Attaching torque specs
The front knuckle to upper control arm spec seems to be missing so I used 44 ft-lb + 90 degrees

For the rear springs, it's a real pain to get the spring pads aligned when reinstalling. It takes some trial and error, lots of grunt work and patience. Down side is the special alignment procedure when reinstalling. You may want to consider using the service manual procedure since you have the bolt kit anyway.
I see those specs are for the Giulia QV. Do they change for the Q4?
 

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Yaibal, the sizes are in a how to on this forum. I will post it in a minute.
 

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Yaibal, the sizes are in a how to on this forum. I will post it in a minute.
Ive got them.

fyi. Mopar makes a special socket set for the strut nut.


also, I used these at the rear.


It wasn’t a perfect fit by any means but it kept me from disassembling the whole rear.
 

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Interesting. You can get a whole set of pass throughs with a ratchet and everything for that Mopar price! The coil plates on those compressors look good but I will go with a standard locking set, one at a time.
 

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Attaching torque specs
The front knuckle to upper control arm spec seems to be missing so I used 44 ft-lb + 90 degrees
I picked up my manual recently, and there was a value provided for the knuckle to upper arm. It’s 37ft/lb with no degree extra listed. @MacGeek can you confirm this? I can’t help but feel this is a little looser than intended on a critical spot.

that being said, I finally got the whole job done. I put about 80 miles on her over a few days and then got an alignment. The tow @the rear was out a little, but easily remedied. I took the adjustment procedure to my local firestone alignment/tire shop and they didn’t have any issues.

right now the front is at 27” even and the rears are at 27 3/8s. It’s about a half inch drop give or take. And I expect maybe a small bit more as I drive it over the next month. It’s visually apparent right away though. The car looks Sooooo much better. I’d love to have gone with the ST/KWs but decided I couldn’t stomach the car that low.

My impressions of driving: the 17’ springs are fantastic. The car feels lower even though the drop is marginal. The car doesn’t bounce near as much. It’s almost like driving a new car.... again. Since getting the QV, I had always felt some type of way about the ride quality. My TI Sport Q2 was just better. And that was frustrating... these springs absolutely fix that problem. And I’d say they even make the ride more comfortable due to the reduced bounciness.

this was also by far the biggest car project I’ve ever under taken. I had the help of a much more experienced buddy, but it still took us 10-12 hours spread over 3 days. I learned so much. I’m really happy with the result.
 
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