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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been getting an intermittent BRAKE cel that occasionally says service brake pads. It's odd that it isn't there all the time but I'm going to change pads anyway.

I have 22k miles on the car with one track day where Bostondmd did do about 8 hard laps, but otherwise I'm not too hard on them.

I didn't think I'd need new ones so soon, but my question is, how can I tell which pads need replacing?

I'm thinking of going either hawk street 5.0 or tarox Strada, (mostly based off of autofanatic reviews, although honestly, I like the OEM pads), but I know the Hawks don't come in rear sizes. Either way I need to know which pad is the issue to know which one to buy before going to the dealer. I have no equipment of my own to Jack the car and pull the pads off. Is there any other way to tell, or will it tell me if I hook up my obdii (I don't have MES)?

Thanks
 

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8 hard laps and 22k is plenty to smoke the stock pads on a QV. It's probably the fronts and it's easy to tell by just looking at them. You don't even need to pull the wheels off.

The intermittent nature is due to the simple/cheap design of the "sensor". It's just a piece of wire that contacts the rotor when the pads are worn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I tried looking at them with a flashlight but I wasn't sure what I was looking for and didn't see anything apparent.

What should I be looking for?
 

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For the rear pads I would buy the semi metallic centric pads from Rock Auto. For the fronts, you could also do the centric semi metallic or buy the power stop race pads part number pst1365.
 

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I tried looking at them with a flashlight but I wasn't sure what I was looking for and didn't see anything apparent.

What should I be looking for?
It's hard to describe, but you can barely see but also "feel" the amount of material thats remaining between the pad backing (metal) and the rotor. I'm not sure what AR manual calls for but I always replace pads around ~3MM. I've circled the easiest place (I've found) to check with the wheels on.

104162
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's hard to describe, but you can barely see but also "feel" the amount of material thats remaining between the pad backing (metal) and the rotor. I'm not sure what AR manual calls for but I always replace pads around ~3MM. I've circled the easiest place (I've found) to check with the wheels on.

View attachment 104162
Thanks, I'll go tomorrow and check the feel with my hands
 

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Thanks, I'll go tomorrow and check the feel with my hands
I should add that I'd only use this to confirm the pads are shot. If the outside pads have a lot of material left you'll want to check to inside pads and / or rears to find out where the issue is. I am pretty sure you'll find it's the fronts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I should add that I'd only use this to confirm the pads are shot. If the outside pads have a lot of material left you'll want to check to inside pads and / or rears to find out where the issue is. I am pretty sure you'll find it's the fronts.
Makes sense. I checked tonight in the dark with a flashlight. I'll check next time I'm the daylight
 

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It's hard to describe, but you can barely see but also "feel" the amount of material thats remaining between the pad backing (metal) and the rotor. I'm not sure what AR manual calls for but I always replace pads around ~3MM. I've circled the easiest place (I've found) to check with the wheels on.

View attachment 104162

This. Basically once the pad material gets down to the same depth as the backing plate you need to change. Much sooner if tracking obviously..


104172



104173


Sometimes a little handheld telescoping mechanics mirror helps..

 

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I have used my phone set on time for 5 or 10 seconds, set it to macro mode and taken a picture. It me see things better. Takes a few attempts but generally it has worked for me when looking inside wheels, underbody and suspension. Turn the flash on or shine a bright LED flashlight of the object you are recording.

The reason for the Brake pad warning is the wear senor circuit is being completed (intermittently) as the pads have worn to minimum thickness. If you unplug the sensor behind the calipers you will find the warnings will stop but ofcourse won't stop your pads from wearing away. Time for new pads mate, I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks like all 4 pads are about the same thickness as the backing plate but the front right driver is the worse; no surprise sent I went to LRP and bostondmd took a spin

I was thinking of going with the tarox Strada pads bc they offer rear pads, connect to the sensor, and we're recommended by autofanatic (for what that's worth); plus I think they're cheaper than oem.

I will say that I'm no expert but I do like the OEM pads, but if the tarox Strada offer a little extra stopping power, then I'm all for it
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I actually got in contact with Phil from Auto fanatic and he said he had lots of issues with the tarox and runs ebc yellow stuff now as his dd.

My main dealer quoted me
650 for front oem pads, 450 for rear and 500 per axel for labor.

I'm going to try my backup dealer but damn that's high for OEM
 

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So I actually got in contact with Phil from Auto fanatic and he said he had lots of issues with the tarox and runs ebc yellow stuff now as his dd.

My main dealer quoted me
650 for front oem pads, 450 for rear and 500 per axel for labor.

I'm going to try my backup dealer but damn that's high for OEM
That is ridiculous. Also, if your pads are as thick as the backing plate, I don't see why they'd be tripping the sensor. There was a TSB for certain QV where the sensor cable would get damaged (too short IIRC) and short itself out triggering that message. You might check all the sensor cables for obvious damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is ridiculous. Also, if your pads are as thick as the backing plate, I don't see why they'd be tripping the sensor. There was a TSB for certain QV where the sensor cable would get damaged (too short IIRC) and short itself out triggering that message. You might check all the sensor cables for obvious damage.
That's good to know. I'm going to the dealer anyway next week so I'll have them inspect the cel to see if it's something else causing it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I called my other local dealer that's usually cheaper and they were even more expensive.

But they did mention that it could be the pad related to the ebrake. I'm going to plug in my obdii and check the code after work.

Either way I think I'll have my main dealer look at it next week but wait to decide what to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can I ask what people have been quoted by their dealer for pad changes?

650 for front oem pads and 450 for rears seemed on par with what I saw on vendor sites, but 510 per axel for labor seems very high to me.
 

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Can I ask what people have been quoted by their dealer for pad changes?

650 for front oem pads and 450 for rears seemed on par with what I saw on vendor sites, but 510 per axel for labor seems very high to me.
IMO anything more than about 250 per wheel for parts and labor is highway robbery. These are easy brakes to work on, so labor should be minimal. Total parts cost for me was about $300 ($132 rear, $164 front). The QV will cost more, but not THAT much more.

I really like the EBC yellows.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
IMO anything more than about 250 per wheel for parts and labor is highway robbery. These are easy brakes to work on, so labor should be minimal. Total parts cost for me was about $300 ($132 rear, $164 front). The QV will cost more, but not THAT much more.

I really like the EBC yellows.
That's what I thought as well that it was really high.

I've heard good things about the ebc yellow, but on my black car with red calipers, I think the yellow would clash. Auto fanatic, with the same color combo as me, said he painted his as a result
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So the dealer confirmed my fronts have 0mm left and the rears have 2mm

I'm going to change the front. Couldn't find consensus on aftermarket pads so for now I'll stick with OEM.

The dealer said that they recommend changing rotors and pads at the same time. I think that's bs but wanted to confirm with others.

Thanks
 
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