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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I track this car. See how shot the pads are? And I weighed the front CCM rotors... they were just 1lb away from being at the minimum weight limit.

So I replaced them with the Girodisc setup because I did NOT want to pay ~$15k for CCM rotors and pads.

Unfortunately I didn't disconnect the negative battery lead, so the car is in a weird brake-failsafe mode. Ordered a set of MultiECUscan cables from eBay. Gonna be a while before they get here, though.

Would happen to be someone in the South East with a set I could borrow, would there???

At least she looks good 馃お

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What exactly are you going to reset?
Oh boy... Just start here lol. Excellent beginning to end thread on this problem:


Basically I need to connect to the ABS system and clear the codes. This should set the braking system to normal working order as well as help the dependency systems clear themselves.
 

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I've been playing in MES and there doesn't appear to be such a thing. You may have to do a proxy upload or you may be able to clear the codes using the grey cable.

I have read that thread from start to end and it wasn't 100% clear what in the end fixed the problem.
 

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A abs scanner will also be able to erase the codes.
I ran into the same problem and my 200$ fo well took care of the problem. I remember when I was tweaking hard because I had to wait for a week for the cables to come in and then I said I might as well try my computer and it worked
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've been playing in MES and there doesn't appear to be such a thing. You may have to do a proxy upload or you may be able to clear the codes using the grey cable.

I have read that thread from start to end and it wasn't 100% clear what in the end fixed the problem.
MES will do it. It's under the Brake menu. Continental ABS MK C1. I see the option in MES, I just don't have the Gray (A6) cable, but it's on the way. Will have it probably by Tuesday.

The OP for that thread I shared has done it multiple times as have others in the thread.

The thread concludes the following:

Without first disconnecting the negative lead, when pushing back the pistons to install newer (thicker) pads, the car will see excessive fluid flow (reseating the pistons/pads) and assume a leak, thus closing the leaking circuits to prevent total-fluid-loss (only two calipers work in this failsafe mode). This causes a bazillion errors for apparent dependency systems as well.

To recover from this, use MES to connect to the ABS system and clear the codes.


To prevent these errors during a pad/rotor change (seems to have worked consistently)

  • disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • perform the pad/rotor service.
  • pump brake pedal to reseat pads/pistons
  • reconnect negative battery terminal
  • perform procedure to clear codes caused by battery disconnect
 

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MES will do it. It's under the Brake menu. Continental ABS MK C1. I see the option in MES, I just don't have the Gray (A6) cable, but it's on the way. Will have it probably by Tuesday.

The OP for that thread I shared has done it multiple times as have others in the thread.

The thread concludes the following:

Without first disconnecting the negative lead, when pushing back the pistons to install newer (thicker) pads, the car will see excessive fluid flow (reseating the pistons/pads) and assume a leak, thus closing the leaking circuits to prevent total-fluid-loss (only two calipers work in this failsafe mode). This causes a bazillion errors for apparent dependency systems as well.

To recover from this, use MES to connect to the ABS system and clear the codes.


To prevent these errors during a pad/rotor change (seems to have worked consistently)

  • disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • perform the pad/rotor service.
  • pump brake pedal to reseat pads/pistons
  • reconnect negative battery terminal
  • perform procedure to clear codes caused by battery disconnect
This is some great information!

I just bought front and rear Girodisc rotors and Tarox Corsa pads for my 2019 QV. I'm planning on taking it to a buddy of mines place to get them installed as well as do a full brake fluid flush (Motul RBF600), so im going to make sure that he follows this process so that I don't have the same issues.
 

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Very clear and concise summary of the working solution @genyosai
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Very clear and concise summary of the working solution @genyosai
Thanks. Wish I better understood why some of our vehicles Don't experience these symptoms.

My QV has a 12/2016 build date. I'm thinking of asking the Autofanatic Youtuber what build his QV is, as he has posted a couple of QV brake service videos where he doesn't appear to have this trouble.

I'm also going to shoot my service advisor an email of what happened to see if he knows of a software update related to this.
 

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As a matter of interest, how many sessions did you get out of the carbon brakes? I鈥檓 curious on your feedback comparing the 2 after up track these new guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As a matter of interest, how many sessions did you get out of the carbon brakes? I鈥檓 curious on your feedback comparing the 2 after up track these new guys.
My HPDE club format is typically two days per event, 5 sessions per day. One 40min session, three 30min sessions, and one 60min session. I hardly ever run a full session. Usually 20min (13-15laps) before my nerves are shot 馃ぃ (I'm still working on that).

This wear is after 3 track events and roughly 18-20 sessions (I rarely run all sessions of the day).

There's some life left in my CCM rotors and pads (about 1pound of wear left in the rotors) which is why I wanted to take them off and preserve them. I'm thinking maybe 1-1.5 events left in them.

Replacement Girodisc rings and pads will cost me ~$1900 when time to replace. So yeah, I'll report back with what kind of life I get out of the new setup and whether it's worth the swap vs keeping the CCMs.

Mind you my wear intervals will differ, as it depends on your driving style, how fast you are, and which track(s) you frequent.
 

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Thanks for reply. Interesting as I thought ccm would last longer. I鈥檝e tracked a few cars and built myself a Mini Cooper track car. Amazing how fast factory brakes wear compared to my Willwoods and track compounds. Proper ducts are a good thing. Although ur car not heavy as a streeter 3715 lb or so, anything over 2200 just kills everything.
yeah 20 mins can get nerve wracking but it鈥檚 the #1 thing in the world ever except my daughter and s x Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for reply. Interesting as I thought ccm would last longer. I鈥檝e tracked a few cars and built myself a Mini Cooper track car. Amazing how fast factory brakes wear compared to my Willwoods and track compounds. Proper ducts are a good thing. Although ur car not heavy as a streeter 3715 lb or so, anything over 2200 just kills everything.
yeah 20 mins can get nerve wracking but it鈥檚 the #1 thing in the world ever except my daughter and s x Lol.
Yeah. Surprises me, too. And I wonder if the early QV CCMs aren't very good, for I remember hearing about quite a few issues in 2017. Mine is a 12/2016 build, so maybe they've improved since then, I don't know.

The QV doesn't have good cooling for the brakes imo.

And I agree! Much of my thought between track days is about preparing for the next track day lol!! Of course my wife and two kids (last one graduating college this Thursday) come first, but even they get it.

Racing is the most fun you can have with your pants on 馃槀
 

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MES will do it. It's under the Brake menu. Continental ABS MK C1. I see the option in MES, I just don't have the Gray (A6) cable, but it's on the way. Will have it probably by Tuesday.

The OP for that thread I shared has done it multiple times as have others in the thread.

The thread concludes the following:

Without first disconnecting the negative lead, when pushing back the pistons to install newer (thicker) pads, the car will see excessive fluid flow (reseating the pistons/pads) and assume a leak, thus closing the leaking circuits to prevent total-fluid-loss (only two calipers work in this failsafe mode). This causes a bazillion errors for apparent dependency systems as well.

To recover from this, use MES to connect to the ABS system and clear the codes.


To prevent these errors during a pad/rotor change (seems to have worked consistently)

  • disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  • perform the pad/rotor service.
  • pump brake pedal to reseat pads/pistons
  • reconnect negative battery terminal
  • perform procedure to clear codes caused by battery disconnect
Bingo! I have never had to clear codes that were not able to be cleared by just rotating the steering wheel lock to lock and restarting the system a couple of times. Done a few brake jobs on mine, and a flush. (I track my 2.0 also) Your written procedures are spot on. I always do the brake service mode too, but I have a 2.0 with integrated e-brake in the rear caliper.

Glad you got it though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bingo! I have never had to clear codes that were not able to be cleared by just rotating the steering wheel lock to lock and restarting the system a couple of times. Done a few brake jobs on mine, and a flush. (I track my 2.0 also) Your written procedures are spot on. I always do the brake service mode too, but I have a 2.0 with integrated e-brake in the rear caliper.

Glad you got it though!
Yeah. Our QVs have a separate parking brake/caliper, so it's only necessary to enter brake service mode when changing the p-brake pads and/or changing the rotors. Since I was changing my rotors, I obviously had to use the brake service option to release the p-brakes.
 

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Thanks. Wish I better understood why some of our vehicles Don't experience these symptoms.

My QV has a 12/2016 build date. I'm thinking of asking the Autofanatic Youtuber what build his QV is, as he has posted a couple of QV brake service videos where he doesn't appear to have this trouble.

I'm also going to shoot my service advisor an email of what happened to see if he knows of a software update related to this.
I think he has an early 2018 qv
 
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Yeah. Our QVs have a separate parking brake/caliper, so it's only necessary to enter brake service mode when changing the p-brake pads and/or changing the rotors. Since I was changing my rotors, I obviously had to use the brake service option to release the p-brakes.
If you disconnect parking brake lines before changing pads no service mode needs to be done.
 
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