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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, tackled this today on my 22 QV and going to provide a quick tutorial on what worked for me without destroying the car or the original badging.

What You’ll Need
  • Heat gun or hair dryer
  • Plastic razor blades
  • Double twined fishing line
  • 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
  • Rubber gloves, tack cloths, etc.

Total Time: 10-15 mins for rear; 30 mins for front

————Rear————

So, the rear was pretty straight forward—no fishing line needed,

I just used my heat gun and plastic razor to pull it off.

It left very little adhesive residue, a little 70% isopropyl alcohol and the razor cleaned it off.

I then cleaned with a towel and the alcohol and used a tack cloth to clear any residue/dust/etc.

Next, tested for fitment before removing the adhesive backing, then applied. Pressed firmly for about a minute.

Done.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
————Front————

So, the front is obviously a little more challenging as there isn’t a lot of room between the badge and the housing.

Adding to the level of difficulty, the adhesive is offset from outer ring by 0.25” (6.35mm), so you may think you’re in; but your not.

I found the side with the widest gap and began working the heat gun on it. Using the plastic razor to pry a bit, repeating until I felt I’d reached the adhesive area of the badge.

I then worked the heat gun along the contour of the (for me, right side), slowly moving my plastic blade along with it (the blade when heat began to mold to the curvature, making it easier to create more gap room).

Still not a really wide space to work with, I grabbed my strong fishing line, and used the plastic blade to push through the tiny opening I’d created.

Working slowly, keeping the line parallel with the bonnet, I was able to feed it through enough to create a wrap around the adhesive.

Heating again, I gently worked the line back and forth until the right gap began to separate from the car. The line snapped at the bottom, but I was able to keep the small gap open with a plastic pry tool (could use the razor too, not really required).

I reapplied the fishing line and worked it again until it had separated far enough from the right side to slide my finger in to hold.

I then hit the left with heat and gently pulled the badge towards me, running my finger from top to bottom until it finally separated completely.

This one left a large amount of adhesive residue behind. I bought a “magic wheel” drill bit to see if it would remove the adhesive—it is a giant piece of shit, just left particles from the drill wheel all over the front. Hence, I didn’t include it in the required items and would avoid it.

Aside from the initial prying, the cleaning took the longest—I again just used 70% isopropyl alcohol, a cloth and the plastic razor blade. I had Goo-Gone available to me, I just didn’t want to take a chance on the finish.

Cleaned up the adhesive, tacked down the shaving left behind from the worthless magic wheel drill bit, again tested for fitment and then applied.

I know you’ll want to grab a flat head screwdriver or something to make prying easier; but don’t.

The plastic surround is soft and metal on metal is asking for disaster.

Just take your time and it will come off, leaving you with two perfect color badges to put wherever you’d like.

Done.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the detailed tutorial! Have the gta set in route. Not looking forward to changing out the front, seems like a PITA. More so for me, one of little to no patience.
Just be a bit patient—if you can find a small seem, the plastic razor blades will do the work. They bend too, and like mentioned, when heated, they contoured to the curvature, allowing me to get the fishing wire in.

I then just used the blade to keep pressing line further in, then pulling on both ends back and forth until it was almost wrapped around the entire badge.

Just keep it parallel and heat when it sticks. If you pull the line towards you, you will risk breaking the badge or your line (my line broke). Here is a quick list of everything I ordered on Amazon.

It seems like a lot; but I also swapped out my chrome Giulia badge on the QV and the ”Stelvio”, “Q4”, and “Veloce” (all with Dark Miron) on the Stelvio. So, I had some work ahead of me today (about three hours total) swapping out the QV and Stelvio badging.


I like this but have a CF surround on the front. Assuming I would have to remove that first unless I can get behind it without?
How far does the CF sit out over the badge? If you just taped it, you’ll likely have to remove it. If you used epoxy, should be fine—the plastic razor blades and fishing line are harmless on the paint.

I do prefer the monochrome badges over the colored. I put the monochrome wheel center caps on my summer wheel set.
Thanks for the post!
I’m tempted to do my 22 Stelvio Veloce (now that I have darked it out) and my 19 Ti Sport (which came with the Nero Edizione dark option, plus I added an Alfa Black QV style spoiler to it). If I could find them in stock, I just might.
 

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2018 Vulcano Black Giulia Quadrifoglio
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I always found it odd that the qv changed the 4 wheel emblems to black vs the 2.0 but not the front and rear logos. Like why not go all or nothing.

They even did the steering wheel in BW 🤷🏻‍♂️

That said, as much as I think these look good and would also look good on my VB, I'm happy with the colored oem version. Matches my hat
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
$84.50 each????
I’m not sure what they’re going for now; but I didn’t pay that much for each one.

Edit: I ordered from the Netherlands — was about $107 USD including UPS shipping at the time:

Second edit: They include VAT by mistake and just shipped it for free. So, under $100 USD for the pair.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is it just me? I feel the opposite: I like the color badges and wish they put one on the steering wheel. To each their own...
You're not alone. I MUCH prefer the colored badges. I also prefer chrome badging and scudetto.
I like both, 2/3 of my Alfa’s have the colored badges—I do, however, prefer the dark badging over chrome and bright wheels. I enjoy looking at other’s brighter specs, find them pleasing to my eye; but wouldn’t buy that way. I de-chromed my 22 QV and 22 Stelvio Veloce because they simply didn’t match the dark wheel selection. I think the last bright wheels + chrome I had were 2 2006 TL’s and a 2009 TL (had the hood beak and trunk lip color match painted to the black; however). After the 2009, I went backwards to the dark look of the TL Type-S’s and never looked back. Although I do still think the third generation TL’s are timeless in styling—in bright or dark—as are the Giuila and Stelvio, in both specs.
 

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I'm not a chrome fan but I prefer the chrome badge on my VB car otherwise it would get lost if it was miron.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm not a chrome fan but I prefer the chrome badge on my VB car otherwise it would get lost if it was miron.
It actually doesn’t get lost (IMO) and makes the VB spec more aggressive (again, IMO). I just de-chromed my 22 VB Stelvio Veloce—with the new 21” wheels, it’s aggressive and stealth.

Let me know your thoughts:

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