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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Since a lot of people like me who shudder at dealership brake job prices have searched for, and found to no avail, a tutorial on the rear brakes for 949 and 952 2.0T variants (ATEs) I decided to finally just do one. This video assumes that:

You know how to dismount and remount wheel (including star pattern tightening and 90 psi torque)

You have threadlock for the caliper knuckle bolts

You know how to put the car in brake service mode (TIP!!!! Park far enough away from things that parking sensors do not trip. This can cause issues when trying to reengage the actuator when you're finished)

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Starting here, the first thing you want to look for is the two large rod like rubber gaskets sticking out of the back of the caliper top and bottom. Better pic below
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These rubber caps peel of rather easily even with just a finger. Inside you will find the bolts that you will loosen just enough to swing that caliper free.

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The bit you will need for these

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While undoing these, it's also a good idea to undo the sensor plugs.

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Just find the tab, and pull it up away from the harness and it will come free

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I used an extension on the bottom as it felt easier to swing my elbow through it just fyi, the top you will need little to no extension

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Next use some sort of flat tool, with the outer part of the caliper as the fulcrum, to get under the spring, and pry it gently forward for it to pop. It may pop all the way out. If not just do the same thing to the bottom side.

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Pry the caliper up from the bottom using your hand if your strong enough to have the best control. If you have to pry, do your best to make sure it doesn't swing free as the brake lines to the rears are lower pressure and more flexible but also more susceptible to damage if this is left hanging.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
104504


Pull out the sensor cable and harness

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TIP. Leave this bolt sticking out enough that you can use it to hang the caliper while getting your pads ready

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For the rears its easiest to just set the pads in place against the rotor

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Use a caliper spreader to push in the piston

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Pull sensor cable through the opening towards car rear and reseat it over the pads pressing towards hub to engage inner pad spring, until you have it loosely lined up along one of the caliper bolts you undid

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Torque them down to a taut 20ft lbs and replace the caps. (if you forget they are still pretty easily accessible with the wheel on (I know from experience now)

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Slide the new sensor harness onto the metal tab off the brake and reinsert the plug making sure the harness tab has clicked into place.

The reinstallation of the outer clip and other videos can be found here:

 

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Thanks for posting. Will give it a try when it’s time.
 

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Very well written tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
 

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View attachment 104504

Pull out the sensor cable and harness

View attachment 104505

TIP. Leave this bolt sticking out enough that you can use it to hang the caliper while getting your pads ready

View attachment 104506

For the rears its easiest to just set the pads in place against the rotor

View attachment 104507

Use a caliper spreader to push in the piston

View attachment 104508

Pull sensor cable through the opening towards car rear and reseat it over the pads pressing towards hub to engage inner pad spring, until you have it loosely lined up along one of the caliper bolts you undid

View attachment 104509

View attachment 104510

Torque them down to a taut 20ft lbs and replace the caps. (if you forget they are still pretty easily accessible with the wheel on (I know from experience now)

View attachment 104511

Slide the new sensor harness onto the metal tab off the brake and reinsert the plug making sure the harness tab has clicked into place.

The reinstallation of the outer clip and other videos can be found here:

Thank you so much for showing it very much appreciated !!!!
 

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I would like to add that the caliper slides on the mounting bolts and these should be cleaned and (re)lubricated with the proper caliper pin lube. Apply this lube to the back of each pad where it contacts the caliper body and piston. Be sure to clean the fixture where the pad engages and slides. Add a small amount of brake lube to this area as well. Also, I believe that now is always a good time to perform a brake fluid service. If nothing else, open the bleeder screw before you compress the piston so that you push out the fluid that is in the caliper. That fluid has seen many heat cycles. Top-up fluid reservoir after.
 

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As a safety measure servicing rear pads/brakes I'd recommend disconnecting battery or if you have diagnostic equipment at least connectors from parking brake motors just to be safe.

And I'd highlight in RED notice to put parking brake into service mode - I can bet someone will not do that and will end up using crow bar to push brake cylinder back :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would like to add that the caliper slides on the mounting bolts and these should be cleaned and (re)lubricated with the proper caliper pin lube. Apply this lube to the back of each pad where it contacts the caliper body and piston. Be sure to clean the fixture where the pad engages and slides. Add a small amount of brake lube to this area as well. Also, I believe that now is always a good time to perform a brake fluid service. If nothing else, open the bleeder screw before you compress the piston so that you push out the fluid that is in the caliper. That fluid has seen many heat cycles. Top-up fluid reservoir after.
Yes half of my tutorial is if you never touched brakes before and half assumes people know these things you are right I should have added some more info in in spots. My pads didn't come with lube but luckily I had some leftover from just doing another car.
 
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