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Yes it is the usb version of the cable, not blue Bluetooth. I am on a flat and level surface. For what ever reason I noticed multiscan deactivated the cruise control. So I activated it, and then ran the proxy alignment again, then ran the 3 abs calibrations. Now the brake system node passes, but the drivetrain node fails due to the same error. The car will now go into race mode, but the odometer is still flashing.
Keep running the procedure in the exact order. Make sure not to rest your foot on the brake pedal. Dont touch it. May or may not be true but i was told that can mess up the results
 

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yeah, it's finicky. mine was too. Proxi alignment tips are:

Level the car (no hills in x or y axis)
move car so no parking sensor alarms
make sure car is not started, but On
Type 2 DNA if you want to display Race Mode graphics, etc. Type 3 on my Q4 is funky. Is also a known issue (supposedly) not working on early DTCM firmware in 2017s.

re-run Proxi alignment until all modules are happy, watching LEDs on your OBD2 interface for actual activity... if LEDs flatline, unplug USB, replug... try try again. it may take 3-4 attempts.

Make sure to complete the ABS module recalibrate steering and other two procedures in the post proxy instructions here How to enable "Race" mode on non-QV 2018... . Be very careful with the steering alignment step, or your wheel will be off. If still showing CELS afterwards, do the battery disconnect trick (disco neg term 30 seconds ... reconnect. start. drive 5 mins until clock reappears with correct time. stop. shut motor, wait till dash goes dark. restart. CEL and warnings should be cleared, no odometer blinking)

Most important, turn RDNA switch PAST D to RACE firmly. don't be shy. it will spring back to D position, and illuminate RACE. repeat to select D, when desired. The RACE position is a toggle RACE<->Dynamic.

Good Luck.
For what ever reason I noticed multiscan deactivated the cruise control. So I activated it, and then ran the proxy alignment again, then ran the 3 abs calibrations. Now the brake system node passes, but the drivetrain node fails due to the same error. The car will now go into race mode, but the odometer is still flashing. I will try moving my car out of the garage and onto the driveway so the parking sensors do t go off. I will also try the battery thing. Do you do that after you’ve done the proxy and calibrations? Also in type 2 isn’t traction control still on?
 

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For what ever reason I noticed multiscan deactivated the cruise control. So I activated it, and then ran the proxy alignment again, then ran the 3 abs calibrations. Now the brake system node passes, but the drivetrain node fails due to the same error. The car will now go into race mode, but the odometer is still flashing. I will try moving my car out of the garage and onto the driveway so the parking sensors do t go off. I will also try the battery thing. Do you do that after you’ve done the proxy and calibrations? Also in type 2 isn’t traction control still on?
Nope, I run type 2 and can do donuts in the snow without a problem.

Did you make sure the COM port settings were correct? In MES settings / interfaces, make sure it's set to 38400. In Windows "Device Manager", find the COM port that the interface is using and look at the properties. Make sure that also says 38400. In that same dialog, click Advanced and set the Transmit and Receive buffers to Low (1). If these settings are not correct, it just takes too long to complete some of the communications and it times out.

BUT... as someone else pointed out in the MES topic, your DTCM could need an update.

Try again. If it doesn't work, I believe that you can leave it with the failed alignment / flashing odometer. If that bugs you, you can revert your changes and do the alignment again and it will be successful.
 

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Yes it is the usb version of the cable, not blue Bluetooth. I am on a flat and level surface. For what ever reason I noticed multiscan deactivated the cruise control. So I activated it, and then ran the proxy alignment again, then ran the 3 abs calibrations. Now the brake system node passes, but the drivetrain node fails due to the same error. The car will now go into race mode, but the odometer is still flashing.
It was reported number of times on this forum, your DTCM firmware is likely too old for Race, you need to got it updated in dealer.
 

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Nope, I run type 2 and can do donuts in the snow without a problem.

Did you make sure the COM port settings were correct? In MES settings / interfaces, make sure it's set to 38400. In Windows "Device Manager", find the COM port that the interface is using and look at the properties. Make sure that also says 38400. In that same dialog, click Advanced and set the Transmit and Receive buffers to Low (1). If these settings are not correct, it just takes too long to complete some of the communications and it times out.

BUT... as someone else pointed out in the MES topic, your DTCM could need an update.

Try again. If it doesn't work, I believe that you can leave it with the failed alignment / flashing odometer. If that bugs you, you can revert your changes and do the alignment again and it will be successful.
Ok Thankyou for your help. Donuts in the snow if what everyone wants! I will double check my settings, and if that doesn’t work; I will try type 2. I will be taking it to the dealer for that update. It’s due for maintenance anyways.
 

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Wow, quite the thread.....cannot read it all.....
iss there anyone in SF Bay Area who would do the software changes needed? I can install the dnar controller myself.
 

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For what ever reason I noticed multiscan deactivated the cruise control. So I activated it, and then ran the proxy alignment again, then ran the 3 abs calibrations. Now the brake system node passes, but the drivetrain node fails due to the same error. The car will now go into race mode, but the odometer is still flashing. I will try moving my car out of the garage and onto the driveway so the parking sensors do t go off. I will also try the battery thing. Do you do that after you’ve done the proxy and calibrations? Also in type 2 isn’t traction control still on?
nope, type 2 is perfect ... disables ESC/TC, ACC, ACW but leaves ABS working, adds another faster shift map with graphics to boot.

only gotcha is if you have adaptive suspension. Needs CDCM upgrade to prevent Soft/Firm Front/Rear in RACE issues which are dangerous. Jason at Alfissimo has an exchange program if you have that problem.

Rerun Proxi and when odo no longer blinks you're golden. Battery trick is only if you cant clear Warnings/CEL after proxi.

You're almost there.
 

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type 2 is race, means linear acceleration pedal but super fast gear change and yellow race theme + ESC off (ABS on), where type 3 is Dynamic without ESC (ABS on), gear changes reasonably fast(but not as in Race), red theme and bumped up acceleration pedal response. hard to choose whch is better. surelly for cars with active supenson, type 3 is trouble free, type 2 in non Q cars causes super hard setting, which is not correctly recognized by suspension controller (red backlight on suspension button), and so there is extreme mix of softness between front and rear dumpers. of course there is solution with CDCM module reprogram to Q firmware (e.g. Alfissimo offers upgrade program for those who prefer track settings with active supension)
 

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Hi, sorry to bog thread.., my fault BC lazy and didn’t sift full thread....🥴😮
is there anyone in Bay Area able to code the bcm...and whatever needs to tweaked?.
is there much to be gained other than ESC shut off? Shifts quicker plus what?...imagine engine power the same.
I have active too...,, sorry in advance to b lame and ignorant!!
 

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type 2 is race, means linear acceleration pedal but super fast gear change and yellow race theme + ESC off (ABS on), where type 3 is Dynamic without ESC (ABS on), gear changes reasonably fast(but not as in Race), red theme and bumped up acceleration pedal response. hard to choose whch is better. surelly for cars with active supenson, type 3 is trouble free, type 2 in non Q cars causes super hard setting, which is not correctly recognized by suspension controller (red backlight on suspension button), and so there is extreme mix of softness between front and rear dumpers. of course there is solution with CDCM module reprogram to Q firmware (e.g. Alfissimo offers upgrade program for those who prefer track settings with active supension)
So type 2 is an all around “race mode” and type 3 seems to be just faster response. I’m assuming if I didn’t have the suspension button before; I don’t have active suspension? Also now my adaptive cruise doesn’t work and say it needs to be serviced. Proxy still isn’t passed of course. I changed the cruise control from “deactivated” to “activated” under the body proxy settings. Is it supposed to be deactivated because I noticed it was after my first proxy alignment. I didn’t see what it was before. Is there a calibration I need to do after the proxy alignment?
 

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So type 2 is an all around “race mode” and type 3 seems to be just faster response. I’m assuming if I didn’t have the suspension button before; I don’t have active suspension? Also now my adaptive cruise doesn’t work and say it needs to be serviced. Proxy still isn’t passed of course. I changed the cruise control from “deactivated” to “activated” under the body proxy settings. Is it supposed to be deactivated because I noticed it was after my first proxy alignment. I didn’t see what it was before. Is there a calibration I need to do after the proxy alignment?
There are two cruise options under proxi depending what kind of cruise control you've got - simple cruise control or adaptive cruise with radar/camera. You can't have them both enabled - just one of them. Look through your FESLog files - you should be able to find changes you've made to cruise and revert them.
 

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There are two cruise options under proxi depending what kind of cruise control you've got - simple cruise control or adaptive cruise with radar/camera. You can't have them both enabled - just one of them. Look through your FESLog files - you should be able to find changes you've made to cruise and revert them.
I have the radar and camera. I will look.
 

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Have you checked MES to ensure on flat surface and steering wheel dead centre. Will have to check where it is but when I first did it I thought it was flat but slightly off according to cars sensors shown by MES. Will look tomorrow on software its location.
 

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Let's keep it on topic folks, it's already a long one.
 

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...well it will work but odometer will flash and it isn't clear that the DTCM is working correctly. And good luck getting the DTCM updated in the US. IF you can, please let me know how!
 

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...well it will work but odometer will flash and it isn't clear that the DTCM is working correctly. And good luck getting the DTCM updated in the US. IF you can, please let me know how!
So you've just been riding around with the ODO flashing?
 

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So you've just been riding around with the ODO flashing?
Ummm. I did for a few days but once we got to full winter I wanted to be 100% certain that the drivetrain would transfer power to all for wheels as dictated by conditions. Reverted to stock. Not that brave really. Was just saying you CAN get it to work and it IS awesome in how quickly it makes her shift and respond. At some point would like to figure out if there is any real impact on the DTCM from this. Btw I have reached out to Alfa Romeo customer service to request the DTCM update and they have responded that they don't envision approving this pretty much.
 
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