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Hi
whats interesting is I tried the single relay socket first but still had issue. I swapped rear relay and defroster still worked w old relay sooo…,
Went to socket closest to drivers side: it has 2 relays in there, I swapped the inner most relay and lo and behold issue gone!
The brapp is back!! Full power, trans downshift quickly / immediately where during issue it was reluctant to downshift. The exhaust makes that lovely brapp during hard accel shifts and the ac doesn’t alway turn on on every key cycle. Perhaps ambient temp sensor is in this circuit? Need to check with MES while driving…lazy lately 😳🥴🤣🇮🇹🏁
Now whats really weird is the relay I used was from the “power charge circuit; either P 09 or 17…I forget but thinking it’s for the usb charging ports. Anyway, those ports are working w old relay?
Makes no sense but know relays can stick intermittently and perhaps during this removal it freed up??
yeah odd for sure. but mst importantly yore back to what you need for spirited driving and brapps
 

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I hadn't noticed any change in my 2017 Q4, but after reading this post and a couple others like it, I hooked up MES and sure enough...
Rectangle Product Azure Font Yellow


So I went ahead and logged the temps on my drive to work if anyone is interested
Rectangle Slope Plot Font Line


The morning actual ambient air temp was more like 20-25C

Ive already ordered 2 of the GM relays - one as a replacement and another as a backup! Thanks guys
 

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I hadn't noticed any change in my 2017 Q4, but after reading this post and a couple others like it, I hooked up MES and sure enough...
View attachment 131405

So I went ahead and logged the temps on my drive to work if anyone is interested
View attachment 131406

The morning actual ambient air temp was more like 20-25C

Ive already ordered 2 of the GM relays - one as a replacement and another as a backup! Thanks guys
While I’m all for sourcing the best part, for the best price, does anyone think that this could cause a possible warranty exclusion, should a problem arise?
 

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Using the updated MOPAR relay number 6106094AA should not..
 

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While I’m all for sourcing the best part, for the best price, does anyone think that this could cause a possible warranty exclusion, should a problem arise?
What warranty? 🙃
But you bring up a good question, which is the "best part"- so I was curious and did a bit of research:



Here is a comparison of the internals of the Fiat 34F231002 and the GM 96484304.

I pulled both of the relays that were in the middle relay "pack" in the passenger side wheel well under the headlight, and I purchased two of the GM relays.

The main apparent difference is the presence of a 680-ohm resistor between pins 85 and 86 on the Fiat relay, and not one on the GM relay.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but my guess is the purpose of the resistor is so that the computer can detect a failed relay. But for thoroughness, I measured the resistance between pins 85 and 86 on all 4 of the relays:

Relay A (disassembled)Relay B (intact)
Fiat 34F23100291.1 ohm91.7 ohm
GM 9648430491.2 ohm90.6 ohm

Otherwise, I would have to say that generally the build quality on the Fiat just seems better in general, even though these are a current point of failure and have been superseded.

From these findings, I've ordered a MOPAR 6106094AA and will compare it as well.
 

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What warranty? 🙃
But you bring up a good question, which is the "best part"- so I was curious and did a bit of research:



Here is a comparison of the internals of the Fiat 34F231002 and the GM 96484304.

I pulled both of the relays that were in the middle relay "pack" in the passenger side wheel well under the headlight, and I purchased two of the GM relays.

The main apparent difference is the presence of a 680-ohm resistor between pins 85 and 86 on the Fiat relay, and not one on the GM relay.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but my guess is the purpose of the resistor is so that the computer can detect a failed relay. But for thoroughness, I measured the resistance between pins 85 and 86 on all 4 of the relays:

Relay A (disassembled)Relay B (intact)
Fiat 34F23100291.1 ohm91.7 ohm
GM 9648430491.2 ohm90.6 ohm

Otherwise, I would have to say that generally the build quality on the Fiat just seems better in general, even though these are a current point of failure and have been superseded.

From these findings, I've ordered a MOPAR 6106094AA and will compare it as well.
Way ahead of you.
 

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2019 Giulia Ti Sport
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I also recently noticed the “U008-00-lin” soft code, too.

I used MES to log and chart ‘Air Temperature’ and ‘Air Temperature (Boost/Manifold) but saw no reduction in Boost/Manifold temperatures after replacing the relay (the soft code did not return).

Can someone confirm that Boost/Manifold temperature is the correct parameter to log to verify that the Intercooler pump is working correctly? I ran through the list of parameters and suspect that “Lambda temperature (intake)” might be the correct parameter for post Intercooler temps…
 

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2018 Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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I also recently noticed the “U008-00-lin” soft code, too.

I used MES to log and chart ‘Air Temperature’ and ‘Air Temperature (Boost/Manifold) but saw no reduction in Boost/Manifold temperatures after replacing the relay (the soft code did not return).

Can someone confirm that Boost/Manifold temperature is the correct parameter to log to verify that the Intercooler pump is working correctly? I ran through the list of parameters and suspect that “Lambda temperature (intake)” might be the correct parameter for post Intercooler temps…
I don't remember, but the lower of the two temps is the real IAT. So, if you changed the relay and that temp didn't change much, then that relay was not a problem.
 

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I don't remember, but the lower of the two temps is the real IAT. So, if you changed the relay and that temp didn't change much, then that relay was not a problem.
Thanks for the response. I logged the lambda temperature on my way home from work today - definitely not the correct parameter (800 degrees C).

Any suggestions as to what else to check? I don’t have any error codes…
 

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Do you know if U1008-00 error comes always, or only after hard rides when temperatures go too high and ECU starts power limiting seriously? Asking, as in June I've been on track, and each ride after approx 2.5 minuts of hard push I had deep power loses which were increasing (previous 2 times I been on track, such didn't happen, but that was long time earlier, and ambient temperatures were lower - this time it was like 25C deg outside) - course was 3 minutes total, so accelerations after last turns my car was like at half or less power. I have ECU tune (first time on the track with it), and EGT limiter was lowered (EU settings default was 1160C, US setting I know from tuner is 1065C (probably EU set higher for different setup to meet emissions), it is set in mine to 999C just for safety now).
I didn't have any DTC code on the dash, nor when I checked now with MES I don't have any. I haven't noticed any odds in car operation since, but did only normal use of the car.
What do you think? I will get laptop and do test ride today to see how manifold temperature chart looks like during a few hard accelerations on motorway.

Just in case to keep as backup I ordered 6 Bosch relays, thoretically compatible at least with predecessor number of our 30A (11129885 used on older Alfas), OEMs are too expensive IMHO, Bosch hopefully will do if needed.
 

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I did run yesterday on highway pushing car from low rpms to higher whenever traffic allowed. here is my picture (sorry photo only and Y scale cut). In short air intake/manifold temperature goes up to 140-155C (max peak shown) deg in my case (car is remapped to 310HP/470Nm). I consulted with my friend (kozak, you may know his experience on modding 2.0), that temperature is one after turbine, before IC. Temperature after IC which is sucked used by engine is Air temperature - during hard pushes it was at level of 40-45C deg, only when I finished and went to local roads and stopped on traffic lights it went up to 55C deg max - probably as pump was already switched off (it was low Air temperature, lower than boost/manifold temperature) but reasib was everthing around was hot. I think it is all OK, especially as my naturally aspirated 3.0 V6 12V spider normally reaches 65C deg intake temperature once fully warmed up due to surrounding heat sources under the bonet.
Rectangle Font Parallel Handwriting Paper

anyway, I have spare relays, already used a few to replace ones in my spider instead (I suffered uneven idling sometimes and non smooth gas reactions, and all sensors etc were already changed, fuel system cleaned etc, so started looking at possible sources in the same relays as potentially worn (23 years).
 

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Alfa Romeo Giulia Veloce 2.0Q4 280bhp
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Alfisti friends, lately on my 2.0 Giulia Veloce 280bhp version, I've been feeling sluggish acceleration and (very) decreased top speed, specially after running the engine for a few Kms.

I've noticed that even after a 100km run in the highway I can open the expansion tank for the IC (driver side tank) without any pressure, not any water movement, and I can even put my finger there and the water is cold, or I'd say ambient temperature.

Can this indicate I also have the problem with that relay?

I don't have MES , I do have Torque pro, is there a way I can read the intake temperature? I only managed to check coolant temperature, and Intake air temperature seems not to be available.

Thanks in advance.
 

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2017 Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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Alfisti friends, lately on my 2.0 Giulia Veloce 280bhp version, I've been feeling sluggish acceleration and (very) decreased top speed, specially after running the engine for a few Kms.

I've noticed that even after a 100km run in the highway I can open the expansion tank for the IC (driver side tank) without any pressure, not any water movement, and I can even put my finger there and the water is cold, or I'd say ambient temperature.

Can this indicate I also have the problem with that relay?

I don't have MES , I do have Torque pro, is there a way I can read the intake temperature? I only managed to check coolant temperature, and Intake air temperature seems not to be available.

Thanks in advance.
Just swap the relay out with the rear defrost. Should be easy to see if there's a difference
 

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Alfa Romeo Giulia Veloce 2.0Q4 280bhp
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Yeah just wondering if there would be other option before having to remove the front wheel liner.

Thanks.
 

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Alfa Romeo Giulia Veloce 2.0Q4 280bhp
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Is this location for the IC pump Relay on a 2017 2.0 Giulia ?

I ask because I've read that 2017 don't have the 3 sockets, and I would like to know which relay to change before starting to dismount the front wheel liner.

World Organism Rectangle Slope Font
 

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Is this location for the IC pump Relay on a 2017 2.0 Giulia ?

I ask because I've read that 2017 don't have the 3 sockets, and I would like to know which relay to change before starting to dismount the front wheel liner.

View attachment 135336
On my 7-17 Giulia it was socket closest to engine. Pop the hood and there’s a opening to access that socket but cannot say that’s the IC pump relay.
 

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Ok, I has access to MES and that U-xxxx something error was there. Put the new relay started the car and everything is good, no more errors.

Still, I feel, sometimes the acceleration a bit sluggish, like if something was holding the car back before releasing it, either way on a test road I still was able to get to 23x and was still pushing, so I guess it won't be turbo or some crack in a hose, because if it was something like that, I'd assume I'd never be able to create boost.

Spark Plugs were changed 1 year ago (10k km ago also), and filter, oil, etc was just changed on the 65K km regular maintenance.

Any ideas what it can be ?
 

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On my 7-17 Giulia it was socket closest to engine. Pop the hood and there’s a opening to access that socket but cannot say that’s the IC pump relay.
I thought that that one closest to the engine, the one that can be accessed from under the hood, behind and under the headlight, is the compartment for the starter relays.
 
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