yeah odd for sure. but mst importantly yore back to what you need for spirited driving and brappsHi
whats interesting is I tried the single relay socket first but still had issue. I swapped rear relay and defroster still worked w old relay sooo…,
Went to socket closest to drivers side: it has 2 relays in there, I swapped the inner most relay and lo and behold issue gone!
The brapp is back!! Full power, trans downshift quickly / immediately where during issue it was reluctant to downshift. The exhaust makes that lovely brapp during hard accel shifts and the ac doesn’t alway turn on on every key cycle. Perhaps ambient temp sensor is in this circuit? Need to check with MES while driving…lazy lately 😳🥴🤣🇮🇹🏁
Now whats really weird is the relay I used was from the “power charge circuit; either P 09 or 17…I forget but thinking it’s for the usb charging ports. Anyway, those ports are working w old relay?
Makes no sense but know relays can stick intermittently and perhaps during this removal it freed up??
While I’m all for sourcing the best part, for the best price, does anyone think that this could cause a possible warranty exclusion, should a problem arise?I hadn't noticed any change in my 2017 Q4, but after reading this post and a couple others like it, I hooked up MES and sure enough...
View attachment 131405
So I went ahead and logged the temps on my drive to work if anyone is interested
View attachment 131406
The morning actual ambient air temp was more like 20-25C
Ive already ordered 2 of the GM relays - one as a replacement and another as a backup! Thanks guys
What warranty? 🙃While I’m all for sourcing the best part, for the best price, does anyone think that this could cause a possible warranty exclusion, should a problem arise?
|Relay A (disassembled)||Relay B (intact)|
|Fiat 34F231002||91.1 ohm||91.7 ohm|
|GM 96484304||91.2 ohm||90.6 ohm|
Way ahead of you.What warranty? 🙃
But you bring up a good question, which is the "best part"- so I was curious and did a bit of research:
Here is a comparison of the internals of the Fiat 34F231002 and the GM 96484304.
I pulled both of the relays that were in the middle relay "pack" in the passenger side wheel well under the headlight, and I purchased two of the GM relays.
The main apparent difference is the presence of a 680-ohm resistor between pins 85 and 86 on the Fiat relay, and not one on the GM relay.
I'm not an electrical engineer, but my guess is the purpose of the resistor is so that the computer can detect a failed relay. But for thoroughness, I measured the resistance between pins 85 and 86 on all 4 of the relays:
Relay A (disassembled) Relay B (intact) Fiat 34F231002 91.1 ohm 91.7 ohm GM 96484304 91.2 ohm 90.6 ohm
Otherwise, I would have to say that generally the build quality on the Fiat just seems better in general, even though these are a current point of failure and have been superseded.
From these findings, I've ordered a MOPAR 6106094AA and will compare it as well.
I don't remember, but the lower of the two temps is the real IAT. So, if you changed the relay and that temp didn't change much, then that relay was not a problem.I also recently noticed the “U008-00-lin” soft code, too.
I used MES to log and chart ‘Air Temperature’ and ‘Air Temperature (Boost/Manifold) but saw no reduction in Boost/Manifold temperatures after replacing the relay (the soft code did not return).
Can someone confirm that Boost/Manifold temperature is the correct parameter to log to verify that the Intercooler pump is working correctly? I ran through the list of parameters and suspect that “Lambda temperature (intake)” might be the correct parameter for post Intercooler temps…
Thanks for the response. I logged the lambda temperature on my way home from work today - definitely not the correct parameter (800 degrees C).I don't remember, but the lower of the two temps is the real IAT. So, if you changed the relay and that temp didn't change much, then that relay was not a problem.
Just swap the relay out with the rear defrost. Should be easy to see if there's a differenceAlfisti friends, lately on my 2.0 Giulia Veloce 280bhp version, I've been feeling sluggish acceleration and (very) decreased top speed, specially after running the engine for a few Kms.
I've noticed that even after a 100km run in the highway I can open the expansion tank for the IC (driver side tank) without any pressure, not any water movement, and I can even put my finger there and the water is cold, or I'd say ambient temperature.
Can this indicate I also have the problem with that relay?
I don't have MES , I do have Torque pro, is there a way I can read the intake temperature? I only managed to check coolant temperature, and Intake air temperature seems not to be available.
Thanks in advance.
On my 7-17 Giulia it was socket closest to engine. Pop the hood and there’s a opening to access that socket but cannot say that’s the IC pump relay.
I thought that that one closest to the engine, the one that can be accessed from under the hood, behind and under the headlight, is the compartment for the starter relays.On my 7-17 Giulia it was socket closest to engine. Pop the hood and there’s a opening to access that socket but cannot say that’s the IC pump relay.