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Sorry, one other thing, in MES, which parameter is post intercooler temp? I have boost/manifold temp which at idle is at 50 degrees C. I'm guessing this is the one? Thanks
I don't remember the exact names of the parameters, but I do remember that it's the one that doesn't make sense. MES has them mixed up.
 

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@AlfaRomeoCares I believe that maybe you should get the ball rolling, if you can, so this hidden gremlin is fixed. This should absolutely throw a light/code.
Hi there,

Thanks for bringing this to our attention! We're really sorry to hear about this. I'd be happy to formally file this as feedback so that it is stored in our system and brought to attention. @JeFizz, if you could please send us a private message with your VIN so we can file this on your behalf, I'd love to collect more information from you!

For everyone that is working with their dealers to get this properly diagnosed and resolved, I hope your dealers are able to get this complete quickly!

Thanks,

Courtney
Alfa Romeo Cares
 

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2018 Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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Hi there,

Thanks for bringing this to our attention! We're really sorry to hear about this. I'd be happy to formally file this as feedback so that it is stored in our system and brought to attention. @JeFizz, if you could please send us a private message with your VIN so we can file this on your behalf, I'd love to collect more information from you!

For everyone that is working with their dealers to get this properly diagnosed and resolved, I hope your dealers are able to get this complete quickly!

Thanks,

Courtney
Alfa Romeo Cares
I don't have the issue, but it appears that we have at least two other members that are.
 

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They are superseding the relays. The newest style is a 06106094AA. They look like a different manufacturer. From what I see, the nice thing about these FIAT/Alfa relays is that they have little resistors in them to send back resistance so the control modules can tell when they are not operating correctly. Because of this I wouldn't use a standard 4 pin relay as the car may not throw a code if the new relay fails.
You're seeing a flyback diode, not a resistor. It just ensures the control modules don't see hundreds of volts of back EMF when switching off the relay coil. :) Generally been a staple feature of Mopar relays for decades now. The control modules can monitor the current going to the relays with sense resistors in the modules themselves. The OEM relays are kinda pricey but they are very nice at not blowing up your electronics, I pull them at junkyards for any project that needs a relay.
 

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Swap the relay with the rear defrost or similar and see if that stops working. If it does then the relay is toast. I suppose that might be difficult in warm weather. Maybe there is another system you could transpose the relay with?
 

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So I had this code, initially showing as "present". I swapped the relay with the rear defrost and cleared all codes. I've probably done in the region of 300 miles since swapping relays. I've just checked the ECU logs and the code is back this time showing intermittent and logged approx 200 miles ago.

One thing I noticed when swapping the relays was how much tighter the rear defrost relay was in the socket/housing. The LT pump relay came out extremely easy and once inserted does not feel anywhere near as secure as the rear defrost position. This reminded me of faults we get on and Alternator solenoid on a Train hydro driveline. The female sockets start to splay due to temperature fluctuations and then trigger intermittent solenoid open circuit faults. Is this potentially what we are seeing here? I have some conductive compound paste at work that we use to coat the solenoid terminals when this error happens, I am going to put some on the the male terminals of the relay and also see if I can close the female sockets as well and see if the fault clears for good.
 

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So I had this code, initially showing as "present". I swapped the relay with the rear defrost and cleared all codes. I've probably done in the region of 300 miles since swapping relays. I've just checked the ECU logs and the code is back this time showing intermittent and logged approx 200 miles ago.

One thing I noticed when swapping the relays was how much tighter the rear defrost relay was in the socket/housing. The LT pump relay came out extremely easy and once inserted does not feel anywhere near as secure as the rear defrost position. This reminded me of faults we get on and Alternator solenoid on a Train hydro driveline. The female sockets start to splay due to temperature fluctuations and then trigger intermittent solenoid open circuit faults. Is this potentially what we are seeing here? I have some conductive compound paste at work that we use to coat the solenoid terminals when this error happens, I am going to put some on the the male terminals of the relay and also see if I can close the female sockets as well and see if the fault clears for good.
Maybe the updated relay part number addresses the thickness of the terminals so the harness doesn't need to be replaced to resolve.
 

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So I had this code, initially showing as "present". I swapped the relay with the rear defrost and cleared all codes. I've probably done in the region of 300 miles since swapping relays. I've just checked the ECU logs and the code is back this time showing intermittent and logged approx 200 miles ago.

One thing I noticed when swapping the relays was how much tighter the rear defrost relay was in the socket/housing. The LT pump relay came out extremely easy and once inserted does not feel anywhere near as secure as the rear defrost position. This reminded me of faults we get on and Alternator solenoid on a Train hydro driveline. The female sockets start to splay due to temperature fluctuations and then trigger intermittent solenoid open circuit faults. Is this potentially what we are seeing here? I have some conductive compound paste at work that we use to coat the solenoid terminals when this error happens, I am going to put some on the the male terminals of the relay and also see if I can close the female sockets as well and see if the fault clears for good.
I didn't notice any difference when swapping the relays.
The connection seemed firm and secure 🤷‍♂️
 

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So I've figured out where I went wrong. On my car, the relay housing/loom was the inner most not the middle assembly as per Beta Romeo's diagram showing location of said relay, so i had inadvertentlyswapped the wrong relay. I've noticed on the UK forum there seems to be a variation in what position the looms are clipped on to the rail. Something to be mindful of. Just look for the loom with the white/violet cable. That's the loom that goes to the pump relay.
 

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Update: it’s fixed

I went to a dodge dealer and they ordered one and I’ll have it today.
I did go through the wheel wall and you can pop the bracket right off and pull it through the hole to change the relays. Much easier than scraping up my arms and from under the hood I couldn’t line up the relay prongs anyways. So I took out the relay and looked it over and the relay looked fine and brand new. I switched it with the one right next to it and the temps are fine now. It was about 83f in Michigan yesterday and I tried to get it to get hot and the temps got up to 120f.
The problem was in fact the relay just as @Beta Romeo stated He literally nailed it right on head. Today after work I’m getting the new relay and swapping the old one out because I’m not sure what the relay next to the water pump relay is but I don’t want the old one in there lol.

I hope this was a good informative discussion for a lot of us. I also really appreciate all the help and diagrams you guys posted and gave. This was literally diagnosed and fixed in a day where I’m sure the dealer would have just made excuses and such. Maybe update something and say give it time to relearn and basically fight with them for the next month till it’s fixed.

edited first post to give the fix by beta so someone having the same problem don’t have to read through all the posts
Did you notice lack of pump whine after shutdown?
 
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