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I'm still trying to figure out where to tap in my BitOne HD. Pre factory amp or post factory amp. I don't want any idiot lights on dash.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out where to tap in my BitOne HD. Pre factory amp or post factory amp. I don't want any idiot lights on dash.
It might be good to say HK or base, although I do not think the base system has an amp that is separate from the head unit.
 

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Good question... do we know if the signal is standard coming from the head unit? You know that's the best option, just may not be a viable option.

Personally I would do speaker level. My ears probably couldn't tell a difference.
 

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The HK speakers might not be as cheap as people think, rare earth magnets do not need to be big and heavy to have the same strength of flux. A neodymium is very strong and small and light (but expensive), the speakers I put in my truck have them.
 

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Have you tried putting sound deadener matt on the deck the sub is mounted too? I aplied some this weekend and it completely changed the dynamics of the base in the car.
 

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Have you tried putting sound deadener matt on the deck the sub is mounted too? I aplied some this weekend and it completely changed the dynamics of the base in the car.
What mat did you use and where did you stick it? Underneath the deck accessing from the trunk?
 

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I used this. I placed it on the underdeck as pictured below.

Remember that with damping mat the best results are achieved when you cover 15% - 25% of the surface you want to dampen. Using more can actually cause you a lot more problems.

It's NOT wallpaper.

93945
 

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I used this. I placed it on the underdeck as pictured below.

Remember that with damping mat the best results are achieved when you cover 15% - 25% of the surface you want to dampen. Using more can actually cause you a lot more problems.

It's NOT wallpaper.

View attachment 93945
Great thanks. I too purchased the Noico 80mil ones. Is this easy to cut and do you need a roller? Can I ask why these locations specifically? Did you find them to be resonating with music?
 

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Great thanks. I too purchased the Noico 80mil ones. Is this easy to cut and do you need a roller? Can I ask why these locations specifically? Did you find them to be resonating with music?
Just find open flat spots that may give a bit when you push on them.
 

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Great thanks. I too purchased the Noico 80mil ones. Is this easy to cut and do you need a roller? Can I ask why these locations specifically? Did you find them to be resonating with music?
What JeFizz said. Also close to the speak will dampen the vibrations closer to the source. Then farther out to deaden the whole panel.

I found the material easy to cut with regular scissors and used a roller set off amazon for $12.

Once warmer weather hits I will likely pull the dot panels off and do some on the inside on them and a little on the door panel for both stereo sounds as well is exterior noise management.

Think of any surface that vibrates as a speaker transmitting sound. Heck you can find plans on the internet that show you how to use a some inexpensive components from amazon to build a laser mic to listen to conversations a loooong way away by pointing it at a window. Works quite well... :)
 

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I'm still trying to figure out where to tap in my BitOne HD. Pre factory amp or post factory amp. I don't want any idiot lights on dash.
As I understand it, the volume is controlled via the canbus directly into the amplifier so if you tap the BotOne before the HK amp you won't be able to control the volume using the volume knob or the steering wheel volume control. Of course, you could use the BitOne's DRC MP to control the volume, but I also think I read that the speed camera warnings, sat nav etc are fed directly into the amp so you'd potentially lose these too if they are important to you.
 

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This post is one place for those looking to dramatically improve the sound quality of the Alfa Romeo stereo system.

Some things that I discovered while upgrading my system. First is that the center channel is always on regardless of whether the surround is on or off. Also the crossover to the subwoofer is extremely poor. Vocals are also being fed into the sub making it strain to try to reproduce those higher frequencies. Simply putting an inline low pass 100mhz 4 ohm filter from parts express ($18) might help sound quality some for those not wanting to add or replace any of the speakers. Those looking to just replace the sub will need to cross it over also or it will not really improve sound even if sub is good. For those looking to do more here are some other options.

1. Easiest and cheapest way is to add a subwoofer such as the premade JL audio sub box with 10 inch sub, audiocontrol LC2i to get signal for sub and adjust for missing bass as volume is increased. Keep stock speakers. This will play very loud and will satisfy most people. I initially did this by adding a JL audio RD500/1 amp with the JL Audio CS110TG-TW3. The bass was clean, tight powerful and almost everyone who got in my car thought is sounded great. However, the stock speakers tend to have too much midrange and the tweeter can sound piercing at times and is hard to listen to for an extended period of time. If you like the treble in the stock radio you will love will absolutely love this upgrade. And yes I am very picky and an audiophile with a home system costing more than many people’s cars.

2. Next option is to replace with stock speakers however they are crossed over inside the amp so not sure how good this will sound since you can not use the supplied crossovers with the speakers. Not being able to use supplied crossovers will dramatically negatively effect the sound quality but would still likely sound better then the cheap little speakers supplied with stock sound system. You can see from pictures that stock speakers have a magnet not much bigger than a half dollar.
3. Since the stock amp is not sending out full channel signals you will be required to use a DSP unit in order to add an aftermarket amp. So your next cheapest option is to get a 5 channel amp with a bullt in DSP unit such as the audiocontrol LC-6.1200. This saves the expense of buying both a DSP and an amp. Then replacing the stock speakers will sound dramatically better since they will now use the supplied crossovers and have a full range signal outputting to them.

4. Most expensive option is to use an external DSP and an aftermarket amplifier. You can use a cheap LC6i but because the front speakers use all 6 inputs it you lose the fader in the dash. The best LC8i or JL audio fix 82 if you want to keep the fader working. I went with the DM-810 so I could hook up a laptop and completely customize each input, summoning on each output, adjust crossovers, in addition to 30 band EQ. Other similar options Focal FSP-8, Rockford Fosgate 3sixty3 and audison. There are probably plenty of others just look for 8 or more inputs since the Alfa uses 6 inputs on fronts alone. If you go this route i suggest you pick one that you can log into with a computer and equalize sound with a 30 band eq.

Now for which equipment to replace with. Front speakers are a 3 way component speaker so this limits what options you have unless you change to a 2 way component speaker and leave midrange empty.

3 way speakers for fronts

Focal 165AS3 $470.99 Great brand, well made plays on brighter side, very good speaker can handle lots of power.
Focal Access 165 AS 2-way component speakers
Focal PS 165F3 $999.99 Great Brand top end speaker very loud very good and extremely powerful speaker. Awesome speaker but very expensive
Focal PS 165FX Component Speaker Review
JL Audio C5653 $849.99 Great brand top end speaker, very balanced warm sound, sounds great but expensive
JL Audio C5 653 Component Review
Morel Virtus Nano 603 $749.99 High end speaker but have never heard them personally
Precision Power PPI P65C3 $249.99 Top notch speaker at a terrific price. Excellent reviews and sounds almost as good as the high end focals and JL Audio at a fraction of the price. Very good value and if cost is an issue go with this one.
Precision Power P.65C3 Component Speaker Review
Hertz Energy ESK 163L.5 $399 Not familiar with this one
Cadence QRS6K3 – $136.95 very inexpensive starting at $125 online no idea of quality
Brand X at Walmart $145.18 Great price doubt very good quality but probably better then stock speakers

https://www.caraudionow.com/best-6-5-component-car-speakers/
http://caraudiohq.net/best-6-5-component-speakers/
http://www.sakerracing.com/car-speakers/best-car-speaker-reviews/

Rear speakers are 6 ½ inch 2 way components that I would simply buy to match what brand you choose for front. Try not to mix brands as timbre gets messed up and dramatically effects sound quality.

Amplifiers

Anything less then around 7.25 inches will fit in compartment under the trunk, easily hidden out of sight

Inexpensive

soundstream Picasso Nano PN5.640D very small and amazingly powerful 5 channel amp very good value
RetroSound Technophonic not familiar with it
JBL GTR-7535 Nice amp fits well and allows you to stream Bluetooth directly to the amplifier

More expensive

The JL audio RD and XD series will fit right in there hidden out of the way.
Kicker 43CXA600.5 Good brand never heard amp
Memphis Audio 16-MXA5.750 Marine Amp just means more moisture resistant but very high quality and will fit nicely in hidden compartment. Good brand
Alpine PDR-V75

If you are willing to mount amp elsewhere then many more options become available.

So for disclosure I went with the JL Audio HD 900/5 for my amp. JL Audio C5653 in front, JL Audio C3650 in rear, audiocontrol DM810, and JL Audio CS110TG-TW3 for sub. I disabled center speaker and stock subwoofer. Sound is definitely studio quality and very happy with sound. Negative is disconnecting stock speakers puts a yellow speaker in the dash with warning stereo not available. Car is sensing the resistance of the speakers is gone. This is a little annoying. Stereo works fine but warning is always on. Audiocontrol rep tells me putting in resistors prior to DSP will turn off warnings might try it one day when I have time to kill. Draw on car is not very substantial with this amplifier as it is very efficient 80% less than standard amps. Very little heat generated and amplifier does not strain at all even at very high volumes as I have gain turned way down on amp. My biggest concern is the car’s auto shut off I have to turn if off every time I get in because I feel the draw at lights will be very hard on battery.
Where and how do you install the parts express inline low pass 100mhz 4 ohm filter?
 

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Where and how do you install the parts express inline low pass 100mhz 4 ohm filter?
It depends on whether or not it's an inductor or capacitor... or both! No matter what, you would find a place to tap into the speaker wires going to the subwoofer.
 

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I put my oscilloscopes on the subwoofer wires last week and ran various test tones to see what sort of output and filtering the amplifier was providing. From memory there was a steep drop off between 100hz and 125hz (I didn't have a test tone between those 2 frequencies to narrow it down). Also, I don't think there was much output at 20-25hz but I may be confusing it with the actual audible output from my subwoofer rather than actual amplifier output.
What did surprise me was the ability of the front door speakers to play at 31.5hz (playing test tones with the subwoofer disconnected). They seem to handle that low frequency very well especially given they are a bass / mid bass driver and not a dedicated sub.
 

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As I understand it, the volume is controlled via the canbus directly into the amplifier so if you tap the BotOne before the HK amp you won't be able to control the volume using the volume knob or the steering wheel volume control. Of course, you could use the BitOne's DRC MP to control the volume, but I also think I read that the speed camera warnings, sat nav etc are fed directly into the amp so you'd potentially lose these too if they are important to you.
Has someone been able to verify where the volume control is done?

I would say that it is unlikely to have the volume control in the amp itself, since the ETM is the same in base system and HK. In base system the internal amp is connected to the speakers directly. With HK there is just this additional ASK Group amplifier between ETM and the speakers.

There is also an another opportunity: There has to be a proxy alignment code to disable external amplifier - kind of changing HK to base system. Since the base Hifi option exists and works without any warning lights, there is no other possibility than for such a proxy code to exist. Also if the volume control works in the Amp in HK Hifi, disabling external amp must move the volume control back to ETM, since it is the only amplifier in that case. Disabling the amplifier is also required to get rid of any error lights when disconnecting the original amplifier.

So, we need to find the proxy alignment code for "Multimedia: Amplifier: Present/Not Present".

I found the connectors needed to connect external amplifier sockets to new wiring harness without modifying OEM cables. You need 2 pcs of these sets:
https://metra-static.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/INSTAX-AB-CH4_web.pdf

In intermediate Hifi (Not available in USA) there are 2 pcs of the larger socket. In HK there are 2 pcs of larger socket and one smaller. In both cases you therefore need to two sets of these connectors.

With these connectors I should be able to route the wires to the new amplifier while permanently disabling the original one. The original is just disconnected, so it can stay where it is and the setup can be restored later if needed (or if I want to move the new amplifier to a new car). The amplifier I'm currently planning to install is this:

Detailed pin layouts of the original Intermerdiate / HK amplifier sockets can be found here:

HK = Amplifier Premium 2 and Intermediate = Amplifier Premium 1.

I'm in process of trying to find out the correct proxi alignment value to disable the additional amplifier (Intermediate or HK). Therefore I need couple of proxi data examples to compare them.

Could couple of readers please post their proxi Alignment data as it is today? Please also state your model year, ETM Gen (1, 2 or 2.5) and whether you have Base, Intermediate or HK Hifi setup. I believe three proxi configs for each Hifi setup (base/intermediate/HK) is sufficient to find the right byte to tweak.
 

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Could couple of readers please post their proxi Alignment data as it is today? Please also state your model year, ETM Gen (1, 2 or 2.5) and whether you have Base, Intermediate or HK Hifi setup. I believe three proxi configs for each Hifi setup (base/intermediate/HK) is sufficient to find the right byte to tweak.
I have collected various proxi data samples from various forums to an excel. So far I have identified 5 different candidate bytes, which could present the "Amplifier: Present / Not Present" proxi value. But I need more data before I start experimenting. Please help me in this! Please post your proxi data with requested information.

Candidates so far are:
Byte 47: Base Hifi 0, HK: 40
Byte 104: Base Hifi 0; HK: 2
Byte 112: Base Hifi 0; HK 20
Byte 114: Base Hifi 70; HK 71
Byte 121: Base Hifi CA; HK DA

I also need to test whether some of the "shortcut" configurations in Multiecusan already has effect to one of these. That helps identifying non-relevant proxi bytes.

Also please inform if my observations about the proxi bytes above do not match your Base / HK setups. Then I have done something wrong.

In summary the goal is to replace original amplifier with new one with DSP built-in by switching off the original one completely and still having no error lights on dash.
 

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Has someone been able to verify where the volume control is done?

I would say that it is unlikely to have the volume control in the amp itself, since the ETM is the same in base system and HK. In base system the internal amp is connected to the speakers directly. With HK there is just this additional ASK Group amplifier between ETM and the speakers.

There is also an another opportunity: There has to be a proxy alignment code to disable external amplifier - kind of changing HK to base system. Since the base Hifi option exists and works without any warning lights, there is no other possibility than for such a proxy code to exist. Also if the volume control works in the Amp in HK Hifi, disabling external amp must move the volume control back to ETM, since it is the only amplifier in that case. Disabling the amplifier is also required to get rid of any error lights when disconnecting the original amplifier.

So, we need to find the proxy alignment code for "Multimedia: Amplifier: Present/Not Present".

I found the connectors needed to connect external amplifier sockets to new wiring harness without modifying OEM cables. You need 2 pcs of these sets:
https://metra-static.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/INSTAX-AB-CH4_web.pdf

In intermediate Hifi (Not available in USA) there are 2 pcs of the larger socket. In HK there are 2 pcs of larger socket and one smaller. In both cases you therefore need to two sets of these connectors.

With these connectors I should be able to route the wires to the new amplifier while permanently disabling the original one. The original is just disconnected, so it can stay where it is and the setup can be restored later if needed (or if I want to move the new amplifier to a new car). The amplifier I'm currently planning to install is this:

Detailed pin layouts of the original Intermerdiate / HK amplifier sockets can be found here:

HK = Amplifier Premium 2 and Intermediate = Amplifier Premium 1.

I'm in process of trying to find out the correct proxi alignment value to disable the additional amplifier (Intermediate or HK). Therefore I need couple of proxi data examples to compare them.

Could couple of readers please post their proxi Alignment data as it is today? Please also state your model year, ETM Gen (1, 2 or 2.5) and whether you have Base, Intermediate or HK Hifi setup. I believe three proxi configs for each Hifi setup (base/intermediate/HK) is sufficient to find the right byte to tweak.

You mentioned about getting 2 plugs / sockets. Are you aware that the 2 plugs / sockets on the amplifier are not interchangeable? They are mechanically keyed so you can't plug the wrong one in the wrong socket. I've tried this out and they won't go in the wrong socket.

I noticed when lurking around in there that there is a loom plug to the left of the HK amp in the boot that goes up to the 3 plugs that go into the HK amp then one part of the loom goes off towards the subwoofer. I thought about getting a new loom (I checked and the price was about £50) so I could unplug the OEM loom and use the new loom to create a T-harness to feed the DSP and connect my amps to the speakers but unfortunately COVD-19 has closed all Alfa dealers and the factory so I am unable to order a new loom. I also bought an old HK amp which I took apart to use the terminal block but I couldn't solder onto it as well as I wanted to. I ended up cutting the wiring as I couldn't wait until the factory opened to carry on with my installation.
I have literally just connected it all up and have the right speakers going into the DSP and the right output from each amp going to the right speakers. It looks like my right hand door woofer was wired with an inverse polarity from factory. I never noticed it sounding out of phase when it was stock so I wonder if the stock HK amp sends that signal out with inverse polarity and Alfa correct it within the wiring. If you check the grey multi plug on the HK amp (connector A) all the positive speaker wires are on terminals 4 to 11 and the wires have a red stripe or no stripe. The negative wires are terminals numbered from 15 to 22 and have a black or orangey / brown stripe. Except for terminals 7 & 18 which has the orangey / brown stripe on the positive terminal (7) and no stripe on the negative terminal (18). When I ignore the colours and wire as per terminal drawings there is a lack to bass, but if I invert the phase of the right hand side woofer the bass increases to normal.
I will hopefully have time to set the gains and temporarily start EQ'ing it tonight. I still have to swap the speakers out in the right hand door and still change both tweeters though (not tonight, waiting for more acrylic to arrive so I can finish the door adaptor).

The idea that the volume is controlled by the amplifier itself via the canbus came from other forum members on here or the Alfa Owner Forum, but I also spoke to a German company that did an install in a Giulia and they said the same thing. If I doubted it I'd cut my wires and try it but I have no reason to disbelieve it.

I understand what you are trying to do with the coding and it's a good idea but I think there will be a hardware issue with the HK unit unable to attenuate the line outputs so even though you might be able to trick the volume knob into trying to control the head unit I'm not sure it has the functionality built in to allow this. I have no inside information, this is just based on how I expect it works.
 
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