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Are these speakers common sizes that can be used in other cars?
I believe the speakers are common sizes, but the bolt patterns might not be (3 bolts instead of the common 4).

One forum member reported that replacing the speakers (HK system?) caused a malfunction of some sort. Best guess is that the impedance was too far off. The best performing speakers all seem to be 8 ohm (some are 16 ohm), common car speakers are 4 ohm, while HK seems to like 2 ohm.

Be careful when selecting speakers for a car, since many good performing home sound system speakers have no consideration for water resistance in their design.
 

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OK, so after much research and talking to four or five different car audio stores here in the DFW metroplex...this is what I am going to do. Just so everyone knows my starting point, I have a '18 Q with the updated audio system. In short...it sucks. I am going to start by upgrading the amp to a new JL Audio vx800/vi. This is an eight channel amp with DSP that will allow me to send six channels (3 each) to the existing front speakers and two channels (one each) to the back channels on the back doors. So in the front, I will use the DSP in the amp to do the crossovers, time delay, EQ, and balance each driver in the front three way speakers, then just use the passive crossovers in the two speakers on the back doors.

So I am going to add this amp with DSP to see how good of a sound I can get out of the existing front and back passenger speakers. I am thinking this will be good enough for me (audiophile that is practical).

I am also going to install a JL Audio XD600 to power a back sub. The guys doing the install will make an enclosure that integrates into the back of the trunk that is flush with that back deck and with the curves of the sides. I have the Alfa "Cargo Convenience Package" which will require them to keep everything under that back deck. So everything will be hidden except the sub, which will fire towards the back of the car. We are removing that piece of **** rear 6X9 sub (that gets a full signal and distorts like crazy). I am also going to disconnect the center channel in the front dash but do what is necessary to send a signal to the head unit so it believes a speaker is still there (so that I do not get the speaker error). The dealer I am using knows how to handle this.

The sub that I am going to use is the 12 inch flax Focal P30F. I am using this sub because, in the event that I am not happy with the stock speakers, I am likely going to add Focal 3 way speakers to the front, and two way speakers to the back. In auditioning them, I really like the PS 165F3 and will buy these if I have to. However, I am betting that once I add the new amp and DSP, then add the subwoofer with amp, I am likely going to be happy with this setup.

In terms of pricing, I have been quoted $ 4K to have the 8 way amp with DSP, subwoofer mono amp, and subwoofer with custom enclosure all installed, tuned, etc. I just put half down and should be having it installed late next week or early the following week. In the event that I am not happy with the front speakers (both driver and back passenger), I can upgrade them with the Focals mentioned above for another $ 2K. So I am hoping that $4K covers it all, but am prepared to spend a total of $ 6K to have audiophile level sound in this completely badass car.

I think that is an audio system that is worthy of the single best sport sedans I have ever driven. I realize this may sound excessive to some of you...but hey...I got the car (Volcano black with Sparco red/black interior) for $ 10K off of the MSRP, so I feel like I have a couple bucks to throw at getting the audio at the same level as the rest of the car.
 

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OK, so after much research and talking to four or five different car audio stores here in the DFW metroplex...this is what I am going to do. Just so everyone knows my starting point, I have a '18 Q with the updated audio system. In short...it sucks. I am going to start by upgrading the amp to a new JL Audio vx800/vi. This is an eight channel amp with DSP that will allow me to send six channels (3 each) to the existing front speakers and two channels (one each) to the back channels on the back doors. So in the front, I will use the DSP in the amp to do the crossovers, time delay, EQ, and balance each driver in the front three way speakers, then just use the passive crossovers in the two speakers on the back doors.

So I am going to add this amp with DSP to see how good of a sound I can get out of the existing front and back passenger speakers. I am thinking this will be good enough for me (audiophile that is practical).

I am also going to install a JL Audio XD600 to power a back sub. The guys doing the install will make an enclosure that integrates into the back of the trunk that is flush with that back deck and with the curves of the sides. I have the Alfa "Cargo Convenience Package" which will require them to keep everything under that back deck. So everything will be hidden except the sub, which will fire towards the back of the car. We are removing that piece of **** rear 6X9 sub (that gets a full signal and distorts like crazy). I am also going to disconnect the center channel in the front dash but do what is necessary to send a signal to the head unit so it believes a speaker is still there (so that I do not get the speaker error). The dealer I am using knows how to handle this.

The sub that I am going to use is the 12 inch flax Focal P30F. I am using this sub because, in the event that I am not happy with the stock speakers, I am likely going to add Focal 3 way speakers to the front, and two way speakers to the back. In auditioning them, I really like the PS 165F3 and will buy these if I have to. However, I am betting that once I add the new amp and DSP, then add the subwoofer with amp, I am likely going to be happy with this setup.

In terms of pricing, I have been quoted $ 4K to have the 8 way amp with DSP, subwoofer mono amp, and subwoofer with custom enclosure all installed, tuned, etc. I just put half down and should be having it installed late next week or early the following week. In the event that I am not happy with the front speakers (both driver and back passenger), I can upgrade them with the Focals mentioned above for another $ 2K. So I am hoping that $4K covers it all, but am prepared to spend a total of $ 6K to have audiophile level sound in this completely badass car.

I think that is an audio system that is worthy of the single best sport sedans I have ever driven. I realize this may sound excessive to some of you...but hey...I got the car (Volcano black with Sparco red/black interior) for $ 10K off of the MSRP, so I feel like I have a couple bucks to throw at getting the audio at the same level as the rest of the car.
Please keep us posted on how this works out- I'm curious on several things:

1)- wiring color for speakers from factory amp- I don't feel like probing or experimenting- YET. If I know which harness to hit, I can find the drivers with a ohmmeter.

2)- keeping that **** stereo warning failure light off the dash.

I got a bunch of stuff laying around that I would love to install- Arc Audio Xdi and subs, original MB Quart Q series + a DSP with separate L+R equalization is what my car needs.

thx
 

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Please keep us posted on how this works out- I'm curious on several things:

1)- wiring color for speakers from factory amp- I don't feel like probing or experimenting- YET. If I know which harness to hit, I can find the drivers with a ohmmeter.

2)- keeping that **** stereo warning failure light off the dash.

I got a bunch of stuff laying around that I would love to install- Arc Audio Xdi and subs, original MB Quart Q series + a DSP with separate L+R equalization is what my car needs.

thx
I will let you know how it goes. I am really curious to hear the difference in those stock speakers once I get new amplification and DSP capabilities on them and fill the bottom end with a nice sub. My hope is that it sounds really good and I can stop at that point. However, I am also OK with getting all those replaced with good after market separates. Yes, the installer feels confident that he can keep the head unit from throwing that error. I plan to hold him accountable for making that work.
 

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I will let you know how it goes. I am really curious to hear the difference in those stock speakers once I get new amplification and DSP capabilities on them and fill the bottom end with a nice sub. My hope is that it sounds really good and I can stop at that point. However, I am also OK with getting all those replaced with good after market separates. Yes, the installer feels confident that he can keep the head unit from throwing that error. I plan to hold him accountable for making that work.
Sweet-

This car ain't built like a Subaru (my last car this gear was in)- that car literally came home from the dealer with the stereo ripped out courtesy of me and my 10MM socket. :grin2::grin2: I then put it under the knife for 2 days to install my gear- 13 miles on the ODO.

I'm gonna wait just a bit to make sure there are no bugaboos with this car electrical wise that FCA can fight with me on. Once I'm 100% sure I didn't get a lemon it's ON. this car is coming apart.

rjp
 

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Has anyone been successful in removing the stereo itself ? I want to remove the stereo screen to add a hi-to-low but I can’t find a way how. Any one has any idea or ways to get it
 

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So is there a way I can add an EQ, Bass amp, and a voice amp? Or how can I get to the audio harness I just need the speaker wires coming out of the stereo.
as a start, it depends on which infotainment system you now have ( standard, intermediate or HK )

for the intermediate and HK systems, there is an amp in the rear trunk. You can access all speakerwires there. For the standard system, without amp, the only simple way would be to access the infotainment unit behind the dash....

see also:
multimedia.pdf
 

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Has anyone one just disconnected the front center speaker? Just unplugged it? Does this cause an error? I have never been a fan of center speakers in cars. They serve no purpose. I have the HK in a QV. My audio background is recording engineer so I have the luxury of knowing exactly what the original source material shoild sound like becuase I was the one that created it.
 

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Why not just try it? If there’s an error, it could be replaced by a suitable resistor whose value is about the same as the speakers impedance. This could be 4 to 8 ohms usually. The resistor would need to be large enough to handle whatever power that speaker was designed to handle.
 

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@Oostexan, your previous posts about your pending audio upgrades are great. What did you decide to do? Are you happy with the outcome? Details please!
 

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Has anyone one just disconnected the front center speaker? Just unplugged it? Does this cause an error? I have never been a fan of center speakers in cars. They serve no purpose. I have the HK in a QV. My audio background is recording engineer so I have the luxury of knowing exactly what the original source material shoild sound like becuase I was the one that created it.
With you being a recording engineer, which I am not, wouldn't you understand that setting a front stage is important to the listening experience? Vehicles present quite the difficult environment. In order to deal with the many constraints like speaker placement options, interruption of the direct sound path by the center console, and the extreme off-axis view of the speakers, having a center speaker may alleviate some of that... of course it needs to be done properly.
 

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@jordantii , has @JeFizz brought-up a valid point? Vehicles are a difficult sound environment with the listeners sitting far left, or right of center. Can a center speaker, equalized properly, improve the audio experience, or only detract from it?
On a slightly different topic, has anyone found a bolt-in (maybe a little cutting) replacement for the sub-woofer on the rear deck that actually sounds and works like a proper sub-woofer? IMO, the sub is the weakest link in the speaker system. I have read that the stock sub does not have a frequency by-pass and is not a true sub-woofer driver. I would like to begin my upgrade by replacing this driver, and powering it with an amp located in the trunk (in a cut-out in the foam, or attached below the rear deck). I know that some here have added a sub in the trunk with a custom enclosure and cover panel, but I don't want to lose that much trunk space. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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@jordantii , has @JeFizz brought-up a valid point? Vehicles are a difficult sound environment with the listeners sitting far left, or right of center. Can a center speaker, equalized properly, improve the audio experience, or only detract from it?
On a slightly different topic, has anyone found a bolt-in (maybe a little cutting) replacement for the sub-woofer on the rear deck that actually sounds and works like a proper sub-woofer? IMO, the sub is the weakest link in the speaker system. I have read that the stock sub does not have a frequency by-pass and is not a true sub-woofer driver. I would like to begin my upgrade by replacing this driver, and powering it with an amp located in the trunk (in a cut-out in the foam, or attached below the rear deck). I know that some here have added a sub in the trunk with a custom enclosure and cover panel, but I don't want to lose that much trunk space. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Need to find a sub that is efficient in an infinite baffle (IB) enclosure (i.e. speaker mounted to rear deck, free air). This requires a larger amp compared to a sealed or ported enclosure.
 

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Considering replacing the standrd HK sub to one of these, as from my research they are one of the better purpose built 8 inch free air subs available. An enclosure is out of the question so whatever i put in needs to be in the OEM mounting location, with an MDF spacer to fill the 6x9 void.

Will the standard amp be able to power it (400 RMS) or will it need to be upgraded also ? Will i need anything else such as crossovers (whatever they are..) as mentioned in the OP.

I used to understand car audio before there was a sensor for everything that may trip if i mess it up...
 

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@JWB , how will you fit the 8" driver in a 6x9 hole?
I found a Tang Band W69-1042 and a CDT Audio CVLW69 that look good.
If only someone made a powered 6x9 sub...
 

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@JWB , how will you fit the 8" driver in a 6x9 hole?
I found a Tang Band W69-1042 and a CDT Audio CVLW69 that look good.
If only someone made a powered 6x9 sub...
Just make an MDF adapter, it doesn't have to be perfect, the surface area is near identical between a 6x9 and an 8. The edges need to be contoured so as to allow the greatest open area and smoothest edge possible so as not to introduce any turbulent air noise.
 

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Just make an MDF adapter, it doesn't have to be perfect, the surface area is near identical between a 6x9 and an 8. The edges need to be contoured so as to allow the greatest open area and smoothest edge possible so as not to introduce any turbulent air noise.
Yep, what JeFizz said.... small MDF adapter that will still fit under the OEM grille.
 
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