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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi gang,
I took my day off yesterday for a bunch of errands and then the oil change in my Signora Giulia. I got the filter at Central Alfa a couple weeks ago. Pep Boys had the Penzoil 0w40 on shelf.

I'll document my procedure with pics and comments in replys below. Do not fear the "**** clamps." :D

1. Cover pops off ball and socket mounts.

2. Insulated underneath. Note sockets for ball pegs.

3. Splitter air pipe. Don't forget to put it back on BEFORE securing the Italian "**** clamps" on the airbox to compressor pipes. They actually can be opened and close by normal pliers, without the fancy tool.

4. Underside with cool bevel in the middle. They used every cubic inch of space under the carbon bonnet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
5. Italian "**** clamps." Mine were tucked underneath so I made sure they were on top when reassembled.

6. Airbox free, and angled up, giving good access to filter cartridge. Use a "BFW" Cresent wrench to remove. Torque back to 25nm. I calibrated my right wrist with my torque wrench. ;)

7. The eco-friendly new filter cartridge. Oil the seals and soak the media with a turkey baster, then insert.

8. Pinch clamps until they snap back into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
9. The all important drain bolt. I was able to vacuum out 4 liters from the dip stick tube, but the tube joins tha pan at the shallow part ahead of the cross member. The sump portion to the rear contains another 3 almost 4 liters of oil. Specs says 7.2 total, but my pump topped out at 8 liters when I drew the last out of the drain pan. I had added some after delivery to bring it to max. Removing the under pan was a chore. I had to lift the car from both sides. I may do it square using my ramps next time under the rears. You can lift the car from the rear point and place a ramp under the rear tires with them still on the car. There are more than 10 screws to remove for the undertray. Fussy, and you have to tuck in the rear corners before replacing any! Grrrr

10. All reassembled and filled with 7 liters. I slopped a little as the big Penzoil jugs were filled more than I thought but I was also tired. Cleaned and detailed with ArmorAll. Slashed my finger too. Made a blood sacrifice for Saint Eligius of France. ;) Gave a nice "low brass" salute up and down Truman Highway with the Forza valve open to test and check the level on the computer. Maxed, good to go.
 

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Thanks, You make a good case for going to the dealer:smile2:
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
HAHA! :D But now I know how this is done and I bonded with my car. More money left over for a winter wheel and tire set. Oh, and the insurance on my Ferrari ;)
 
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Well done John K! Very timely, doing mine in the morning. Thank you for taking the time and making the post. Grazie mille!
 

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HAHA! :D But now I know how this is done and I bonded with my car. More money left over for a winter wheel and tire set. Oh, and the insurance on my Ferrari ;)
Oh.......so, that’s why I can’t afford a Ferrari, duh!
 

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5. Italian "**** clamps." Mine were tucked underneath so I made sure they were on top when reassembled.

6. Airbox free, and angled up, giving good access to filter cartridge. Use a "BFW" Cresent wrench to remove. Torque back to 25nm. I calibrated my right wrist with my torque wrench. ;)

7. The eco-friendly new filter cartridge. Oil the seals and soak the media with a turkey baster, then insert.

8. Pinch clamps until they snap back into place.
How do you get the old cartridge out without dripping oil all over the top of the engine?

That was always a big problem with my Desoto.

Perhaps a trap door in the bottom pan would be a worthwhile investment?
 

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How do you get the old cartridge out without dripping oil all over the top of the engine?

That was always a big problem with my Desoto.

Perhaps a trap door in the bottom pan would be a worthwhile investment?
I just put the plastic bag the new filter came in right next to the housing so as soon as I pulled the filter out I put it in the bag. No dripping anywhere other than in the bag.

And yeah its ridiculous that they didnt design a trap door into the underbody cover. Every other car Ive seen before had a trap door.

View attachment 74572

Is this a bad idea? This is how my dealership does it.
See my pics a couple posts up. Thats the recommended procedure Ive seen everywhere before this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I tried to flex it up, as it is designed that way if you look at the accordion sections. I was just tired of looking for a good peg to stand it up on. The old bottle of "main seal refresh" was too short but a hammer or a wrench might have worked. Also, my filter wrench for the Ferrari filter may have worked instead of the BFW. The caps have the flutes on them like the Purex filters.

Lockem, what I used to catch the filter drips was a cut down bottle of V8 or Gatoraid. I have used this on my Miata for years to wedge under the filter and catch the drips that fall on the subframe and underpanel. It fits right around the filter housing. But be sure not to tip it back too far on removal or it all flows out! Keep the cap on the bottle and use that as the cup end.

An access door is a thought. There is a small hole in the panel right near the drain bolt but no were near big enough to use. In fact it seems only big enough to drip on the ground to warn you of a leak. I put antiseize on all of my screws. The front four or so behind the splitter were crusted into the threads with salt from the winter. Some were wicked tight from the factory like on the rear when I fixed the bumper tab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also, I have been using an Allen key instead of a proper Torx socket on the underpanel screws. What is the correct size for the torx bit screws? It's pretty small and less than my larger set, say T10 or 11 or so. I think it is down around 8 or something.
 

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Also, I have been using an Allen key instead of a proper Torx socket on the underpanel screws. What is the correct size for the torx bit screws? It's pretty small and less than my larger set, say T10 or 11 or so. I think it is down around 8 or something.
Im pretty sure it was T30. T10, T11 (dont think this exists), and T8 are incredibly small. The allen to torx conversion is not direct, a #8 allen I believe is about a T-25 torx.

Also for future reference the filter cap socket size is 32mm.
 

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Thanks for the writeup and photos.



Why would you prop the airbox up instead of just removing it? It takes literally 60 seconds to remove and 60 seconds to replace, I've done it several times. Propping it up to work under it just seems like undue hassle when you could pop it out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good question FNM. I didn't think about the service clock but saw the numbers on the dash as I was switching to the oil level screen. I think it is still up at 5K or something. I didn't check the service item list in the manual, just wanted to change the break in oil. My car has 3500 miles on it.
 

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Thanks for the writeup and photos.



Why would you prop the airbox up instead of just removing it? It takes literally 60 seconds to remove and 60 seconds to replace, I've done it several times. Propping it up to work under it just seems like undue hassle when you could pop it out easily.
Because it only takes a few seconds to prop it up, way less than 60s for each time, and you dont have to deal with any of the possibilities with not properly seating the hoses, struggling with a clamp that just wont seat, etc. Not sure why you would want to take anything off the engine if its not either required or faster.

Were you able to re-set the service indicator?
Ive spent WAY too much time searching and everything that Ive seen says only dealer can reset the maintenance schedule. I keep hoping someone has the secret.
 

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Thanks for the writeup and photos.



Why would you prop the airbox up instead of just removing it? It takes literally 60 seconds to remove and 60 seconds to replace, I've done it several times. Propping it up to work under it just seems like undue hassle when you could pop it out easily.
Because it only takes a few seconds to prop it up, way less than 60s for each time, and you dont have to deal with any of the possibilities with not properly seating the hoses, struggling with a clamp that just wont seat, etc. Not sure why you would want to take anything off the engine if its not either required or faster.

Were you able to re-set the service indicator?
Ive spent WAY too much time searching and everything that Ive seen says only dealer can reset the maintenance schedule. I keep hoping someone has the secret.
Pretty sure you can reset it with the elm327 and multiecuscan software.
 
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