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They look good.
I stole some chrome ones when I was a kid, so if these get ripped off, it will be karma.
 

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Make sure you keep them lubed. They have a tendency to corrode and freeze then you have to swap the valves. I had it happen on a car once. I have the same caps. I put some lithium grease every month. It's ugly when they weld themselves together. I'm assuming they are aluminum like mine and not plastic.
 

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Yea please don't keep them on haha. I had a set on my previous car and even with anti seize compound they seized to the valve stem and I had to get a new TPMS sensor lol.
 

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Yea please don't keep them on haha. I had a set on my previous car and even with anti seize compound they seized to the valve stem and I had to get a new TPMS sensor lol.
Bingo, same problem on all four wheels. I just checked mine again.
 

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Use some heat next time! Seizing with antiseize? Ridiculous! ;)
 

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Use some heat next time! Seizing with antiseize? Ridiculous! ;)
No it's not. Heat did nothing. GoodYear had to pull the valve off with them on. It's a reaction of the two metals that form a weldlike bond.
 

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Those look promising, brass and all - I don't suppose there's a risk they won't be a match for TPMS valves? I'm contemplating ordering a couple of sets.
Actually, on second thought.......:crying:
 

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Actually, on second thought.......:crying:

I received a call from the company and they refunded the shipping costs. See if they will lower it for you. They are offering free shipping to the USA for a limited time. These are top notch and the way to go for valve caps.
 

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Use some heat next time! Seizing with antiseize? Ridiculous! ;)
Agreed, just keep them moving every couple of months and you'll be fine. I did have them seize once but they were the real cheap kind and didn't touch them for over a year lol
 

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No it's not. Heat did nothing. GoodYear had to pull the valve off with them on. It's a reaction of the two metals that form a weldlike bond.
But antiseize is a metallic paste designed to prevent just this from happening. Now yes, the dissimilar metals will cross corrode with all kinds of nasty mineral deposits, but if you add PB blaster or WD-40 (it's not ice frozen rocket motor turbo pumps so the water displacement factor won't do much more if any than the PB blaster). Let the chemicals start eating the cross corroded metals, apply heat to expand the cap, stress the corroded joint/threads, and then use a small pair of pliers to break it loose. Now the valve stem itself could be the weak link, in that it is too pliable to get enough leverage to loosen the cap once it's corroded on. That may be the explanation here. If so, sorry it took me two days to figure it out ;) But then you could use two pairs of pliers ;)
 

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Trust me on this, I bought PB blaster, tried torching them, dremel cut one and finally went to GoodYear and paid $100 for new valve stems. I was lucky the tpms wasn't screwed up or it would have cost a few hundred. Until you experience it you won't believe it.
 
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Trust me on this, I bought PB blaster, tried torching them, dremel cut one and finally went to GoodYear and paid $100 for new valve stems. I was lucky the tpms wasn't screwed up or it would have cost a few hundred. Until you experience it you won't believe it.
Assuming the valve stem is brass, suitable compatible metals should be

Brass (duh).
Stainless Steel (close galvanic match)
Nickel (close galvanic match)
Titanium (essentially inert)
Chromium (essentially inert)

Note that Chromium plating usually does not cover inside threads and solid Chromium caps are not available.

Of these, Titanium sure sounds like a winner. I wonder if they are made with the Alfa logo on them? I see them with an "M" on the ends...

Kinda pricey
https://www.motovationusa.com/titanium-valve-caps-from-motocorse.html
Generic designs in Ti are much less expensive.

Pure soft aluminum is highly corrosion resistant, but may act like a sacrificial anode when in direct contact with brass. Aluminum and the zinc in brass may be a specific issue. Alloyed aluminum is much less corrosion resistant. I don't think the type of aluminum used in the caps was specified.

Another approach is to buy aluminum valve stems which are compatible with aluminum caps and save some rotational and unsprung weight as well.
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/m..._Code=KICS-WS27A2YBK&Category_Code=ValveStems

Die cast potmetal (zinc-tin-lead in some combination) is cheap but highly reactive. I see some AR logo caps on ebay that based on the price and "alloy metal" description most likely are pot metal.
 
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