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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok So I figure this may help all of us to what I found and I may be repeating some of the threads so I wont include all stuff found already, but I can along. I want it where we can all discuss this Oil Spec voodoo to be specific as I have been relentlessly reading that our oil is a ACEA C2/C3 that conforms with Fiat 9.55535-GS1. Also did relentless research on our filters too with some cross referencing our parts since it is FCA/ Mopar and see who shares what with what. So I stand to be corrected but heres what I found with my source checking what we may be able to try/ use as the time comes down:

Oils:
Motul Specific LL-12 FE
* others posted in other threads

Oil Filter: MO-339
*seems to be used in multiple cars like the 2017 Chrysler 300 5.7 hemi and 2015 Challenger SRT392, but wont state all filters, but can add these filters to the list

K&N HP-1017
K&N PS-1017
K&N SS-1017
Mobil 1 M1-113


sources used:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...731/oil-filter-12090/oil-filter/mo339/4478442

http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/MOPAR/MO-339

https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/spec-ll-12-fe-0w30

https://www.knfilters.com/search/ap...kkpPs7xEUnDWMk+px5iMdxY6hRXSQEBtt74g8+pGpl2k=
 

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For oils, I see nothing that shows that the Motul Specific LL-12 FE meets
the Fiat spec 9.55535-GS1 for Alfa Romeo Giulia and Giulia Ti.

The Motul Specific LL-12 FE 0W30 meets the
SPEC LL-12 FE 0W30 (BMW ... ACEA C2)

High Performance 100% Synthetic Fuel Economy Engine Oil specially designed for BMW & MINI
recent vehicles fitted with Gasoline and Diesel requiring an approved BMW Long Life -12 FE lubricant.


The Giulia 2.0 turbo engine is supplied from the factory with Petronas Selenia Digitek Pure Energy 0W-30.

Only 5 other branded oils in the US have been listed here that conform to the Fiat 9.55535-GS1 spec.
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX (Available at Advance Auto Parts: CARQUEST)
Shell Helix Ultra ECT
Fuchs Titan GT1
BP Formula Elite
BP Formula Select


(Mobil 1 does not and Castrol says their EDGE Oil does not. These might be OK to use but don't specifically confirm the Fiat spec at there websites.)
 
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I think after my "free" oil change ,I'll be switching to Amsoil.
It's never let me down and I do extended intervals constantly.
Plus it'll help having to worry too much about clogging up the Valves from junk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For oils, I see nothing that shows that the Motul Specific LL-12 FE meets
the Fiat spec 9.55535-GS1 for Alfa Romeo Giulia and Giulia Ti.

The Motul Specific LL-12 FE 0W30 meets the
SPEC LL-12 FE 0W30 (BMW ... ACEA C2)

High Performance 100% Synthetic Fuel Economy Engine Oil specially designed for BMW & MINI
recent vehicles fitted with Gasoline and Diesel requiring an approved BMW Long Life -12 FE lubricant.


The Giulia 2.0 turbo engine is supplied from the factory with Petronas Selenia Digitek Pure Energy 0W-30.

Only 5 other branded oils in the US have been listed here that conform to the Fiat 9.55535-GS1 spec.
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX (Available at Advance Auto Parts: CARQUEST)
Shell Helix Ultra ECT
Fuchs Titan GT1
BP Formula Elite
BP Formula Select


(Mobil 1 does not and Castrol says their EDGE Oil does not. These might be OK to use but don't specifically confirm the Fiat spec at there websites.)
Sure while it may not conform to the Fiat Spec, but I figure as long as it passes the ACEA C2/C3 spec you should be fine cause of the cat and some other internal parts but other than that I want to see what the Fiat specs differ from the ACEA spec and why you have to have it specifically that way. JDM cars were so much easier thats for sure. As long as it was the grade and viscosity you had nothing to worry ahah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ha wouldn't have said that owning an RX7.. very specific oil else bang goes the rotors ;)
True, however Rotary is a totally different animal and unconventional compared to a piston engine. Rotary I wouldnt think twice, but I mean Like I said generally. Additives and certain factors do come into play.
 

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I think after my "free" oil change ,I'll be switching to Amsoil.
It's never let me down and I do extended intervals constantly.
Plus it'll help having to worry too much about clogging up the Valves from junk.
Speaking with one of the local Dealership techs yesterday.
He said that he just did the first engine oil service on a 2.0 at 10,000 miles.
He said that the oil was as black as tar when it was drained.
This just reinforced my belief that the first oil change should be done at 1-2K and every 5K after. Assuming, of course, that one is planning for longevity and not just doing the minimal amount of maintenance to keep it going until the lease is up.
 

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I used to change my oil myself on my rotary every 3k or so and that was black and crap too... think it can indicate high heat etc doesn't 100% mean it's past due in my un-knowledgeable book :) I'd be shocked if it wasn't black after 10k
 

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I think after my "free" oil change ,I'll be switching to Amsoil.
It's never let me down and I do extended intervals constantly.
Plus it'll help having to worry too much about clogging up the Valves from junk.
Speaking with one of the local Dealership techs yesterday.
He said that he just did the first engine oil service on a 2.0 at 10,000 miles.
He said that the oil was as black as tar when it was drained.
This just reinforced my belief that the first oil change should be done at 1-2K and every 5K after. Assuming, of course, that one is planning for longevity and not just doing the minimal amount of maintenance to keep it going until the lease is up.

Color isn't an indicator of passed due oil.
I'd strongly strongly advise you against doing very early oil changes.
Especially the first oil change.
The assembly oil and break in oil do in fact turn black sooner.
Keep in mind the high moly content will do this.
IF you cherish your car and want it to last ,do not prematurely change your oil.
I do heavy commuting and I heavily abuse my engines in my commuters,but following those principles along with good quality oil such as amsoil,I do extended OCI's very frequently.
New oil is more volatile and will actually clog up the intake side of these DI engines faster.
Therefore not a great idea to do it sooner.
Amsoil signature series is good for a minimum of 15,000 miles.
I usually do 20,000 on my commuters with zero problems and the mileage to prove it.
Don't beat the car until at least 1000 miles on the clock. Then change the oil accordingly with good oil and should last a long time.
One thing I will do prematurely is change the spark plugs and the transmission fluid.
Keeping the clutches with clean fluid is essential for this grandmaster tranny.
I definitely don't want problems with it.cant imagine the cost to repair or rebuild it but I'm sure not cheap by any standards. Unless you're comparing to the f1 style of the Gran Turismo then yeah I guess it's dirt cheap.
 

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Color isn't an indicator of passed due oil.
I'd strongly strongly advise you against doing very early oil changes.
Especially the first oil change.
The assembly oil and break in oil do in fact turn black sooner.
So, you have evidence that the Giulias are delivered with a special "break-in oil" and not the Petronas Digitec that is recommended for continual use?
I agree, the assembly lube that is adhered to the internal engine components (before they are assembled) may discolor and contaminate the engine oil.
Please explain how extending the oil change intervals, is better for the engine.
 

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If they come with a break-in oil, then that oil will have the metal particles suspended in it, that came off the parts that were breaking-in to each other. Once that oil is replaced, you should be good following the recommended factory oil change schedule, under normal vehicle use. Trans and diff fluid has the same issue with break-in particles. I always change those fluids out too on the first change, even though dealerships swear up and down that it isn't necessary. If you see and smell what comes out of the diff on that first change, you'll appreciate having clean fluid in there. From that point on, unless you drive hard or track your car, you'll be good following the recommended change intervals.
 

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I think after my "free" oil change ,I'll be switching to Amsoil.
It's never let me down and I do extended intervals constantly.
Plus it'll help having to worry too much about clogging up the Valves from junk.
I or the dealer will put no 0W-30 oil in my Giulia which does not meet the Fiat spec 9-55535-GS1.
Amsoil does not meet the Fiat/Alfa spec. In addition, I personally object to the Multi-Level Marketing
method of sales like with Amsoil products. I'm a huge fan of conventional private enterprise but not
MLM for any product.
 
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What tech's don't know about oil

Speaking with one of the local Dealership techs yesterday.
He said that he just did the first engine oil service on a 2.0 at 10,000 miles.
He said that the oil was as black as tar when it was drained.
This just reinforced my belief that the first oil change should be done at 1-2K and every 5K after. Assuming, of course, that one is planning for longevity and not just doing the minimal amount of maintenance to keep it going until the lease is up.
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
 

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I think after my "free" oil change ,I'll be switching to Amsoil.
It's never let me down and I do extended intervals constantly.
Plus it'll help having to worry too much about clogging up the Valves from junk.
I or the dealer will put no 0W-30 oil in my Giulia which does not meet the Fiat spec 9-55535-GS1.
Amsoil does not meet the Fiat/Alfa spec. In addition, I personally object to the Multi-Level Marketing
method of sales like with Amsoil products. I'm a huge fan of conventional private enterprise but not
MLM for any product.


You are correct as it's not Fiat specs.to that very particular gs1.
But it's better.
Seeing how the Fiat spec is a c2
Amsoil conforms to a c3.
I'm not here to argue.its your car,your money
But amsoil has never failed me and I do extended OCI's often.
I redline the heck out of my high compression engines down to my tbi engines.
I do not sell or have any affiliation with Amsoil.
But why not use what has actual performance backing.
But yes it isn't the Fiat gs1 spec,which simply means it's made to withstand longer OCI's.
It is simply better and at only 11 bucks a quart,it's cheap.

There is a technical paper posted above me as well,that does in fact show ,longer oci oil, protected better.which is exactly what I like to hear..

Like I said ,I'm not here to argue and at the end of the day it's your money your car.
But I will stick to what works and has worked.
I drive my cars like I steal em.
I can tell you that they last a long time.
 

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If they come with a break-in oil, then that oil will have the metal particles suspended in it, that came off the parts that were breaking-in to each other. .

Yes it's true,but those microscopic particles are trapped in the newer gen oil filter elements as that is,well their job.
Oil filters now are designed to withstand over 10,000 miles easily.
If you said this back in the early mid nineties I would of said yeah right.
Now a days most manufacters don't recommend Changing the oil filter every time.
Yes I know sounds silly,but with newer engines being built with much much tighter tolerance's,they run smoother and don't break off as much wear particulates as say the 80's and nineties engines did.
Even early 2000's
 

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Yes it's true,but those microscopic particles are trapped in the newer gen oil filter elements as that is,well their job.
Oil filters now are designed to withstand over 10,000 miles easily.
If you said this back in the early mid nineties I would of said yeah right.
Now a days most manufacters don't recommend Changing the oil filter every time.
Yes I know sounds silly,but with newer engines being built with much much tighter tolerance's,they run smoother and don't break off as much wear particulates as say the 80's and nineties engines did.
Even early 2000's
That's true to a point. I used to do the first change at 500 miles to get the particles out. Never had any problems with the mechanicals. Now I just wait until the first recommended change. The new oils are vastly superior to the old ones. The assembly and tolerance of the new engines are also considerably better than old. The only area I still pay attention to, is trans and diff. Those don't get changed like engine oil, yet they endure the same break-in and heat. Changing out the initial fluid in those two, should give them a better chance at a long, trouble-free life.
 

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I do not sell or have any affiliation with Amsoil.

Great, I'll run right out and try to find an Amsoil independent distributor
to buy from. They obviously know better than Alfa what to put in the Giulia.
First time I've ever read a MLM testimonial from other than a seller.
 
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