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Due to Covid, my leased 18 Ti Sport will only have around 32K miles out of the 39K I paid for. My buyout is around $23K. Other than a bad oil pump solenoid, it has been very reliable, though I am somewhat concerned my dealer did not actually perform my first "free" oil change, hence the solenoid. I have no proof of this though, and the car continues to run very (very) strong. No squeaks or rattles. Beautiful paint. Wonderful seats. Honestly just a fu#king epic car. Should I:

Buy my vehicle that I know has been treated well by me, eating the somewhat high buyout cost versus purchasing the car outright and pursue an extended warranty.

OR

Buy a used 19 or 20 for around $30-35K with low miles, picking up the tilting driver seat and maybe dynamic cruise control, albeit almost certainly with worse paint and interior wear.
 

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I agree, despite having a 2018 base, it’s been great and the white on red with a sunroof kicks my ass every time I look at it. She’s been as reliable as can be and feels better every day... however I would really like those TI sport seats and a sassier rear (diffuser). There are the occasional stories you hear here of some lemons out there, so it is a little scary when she goes back at lease end, but as of now, she’s a keeper.
 

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Due to Covid, my leased 18 Ti Sport will only have around 32K miles out of the 39K I paid for. My buyout is around $23K. Other than a bad oil pump solenoid, it has been very reliable, though I am somewhat concerned my dealer did not actually perform my first "free" oil change, hence the solenoid. I have no proof of this though, and the car continues to run very (very) strong. No squeaks or rattles. Beautiful paint. Wonderful seats. Honestly just a fu#king epic car. Should I:

Buy my vehicle that I know has been treated well by me, eating the somewhat high buyout cost versus purchasing the car outright and pursue an extended warranty.

OR

Buy a used 19 or 20 for around $30-35K with low miles, picking up the tilting driver seat and maybe dynamic cruise control, albeit almost certainly with worse paint and interior wear.
Is it possible to swap out your existing 6-way driver's seat for a new 8-way (tilting) driver's seat from a 2019 Guilia?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is it possible to swap out your existing 6-way driver's seat for a new 8-way (tilting) driver's seat from a 2019 Guilia?
Hard to know. To be honest, my seats are comfortable enough for me that I'm not really dying to get this feature. I think my biggest regret is that I would have gotten PPF on the hood if I knew I was going to keep it.
 

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If you feel 23k is high for the buyout then you clearly feel your 2018 has depreciated like a rock and you may be right. But why put yourself back on the steep part of the depreciation curve?
A seat swap is going to be cheap in comparison.
I know there are owners on the forum who love the active cruse control. I have tried it a couple of times but at this point I don’t even know or really care whether it still works.
Keep the Giulia you have and upgrade.
 

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never leased before, lease on my 19 is with Ally. I'm curious, when lease term ends is it possible to negotiate a lower buyout price (mine is $24k). I'm really thinking of keeping the car, course I still have a bit over two years left on the term
 

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Is it possible to swap out your existing 6-way driver's seat for a new 8-way (tilting) driver's seat from a 2019 Guilia?
I believe that seats are an integral part of our cars and can not be separated from the original chassis. At least so I have been told by Alfa.
 

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never leased before, lease on my 19 is with Ally. I'm curious, when lease term ends is it possible to negotiate a lower buyout price (mine is $24k). I'm really thinking of keeping the car, course I still have a bit over two years left on the term
I tried to negotiate once with a Jaguar XK. I gave them an offer and waited a bit. Two weeks later they called to let me know that besides not accepting my offer the price for the buyout had increased. So I ended up paying more. Lesson learned.
 

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Due to Covid, my leased 18 Ti Sport will only have around 32K miles out of the 39K I paid for. My buyout is around $23K. Other than a bad oil pump solenoid, it has been very reliable, though I am somewhat concerned my dealer did not actually perform my first "free" oil change, hence the solenoid. I have no proof of this though, and the car continues to run very (very) strong. No squeaks or rattles. Beautiful paint. Wonderful seats. Honestly just a fu#king epic car. Should I:

Buy my vehicle that I know has been treated well by me, eating the somewhat high buyout cost versus purchasing the car outright and pursue an extended warranty.

OR

Buy a used 19 or 20 for around $30-35K with low miles, picking up the tilting driver seat and maybe dynamic cruise control, albeit almost certainly with worse paint and interior wear.
I bought my 2017 loaded Guilia after its three years lease. I am hanging on to see if the 2022 model is dynamic enough for me to part with a car I LOVE.
 

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Ally does not negotiate residuals. Curiously, they also will not allow the turn-in dealer to buy the car. They insist on sending car to auction, which obviously costs them in transportation, auction fees, etc. Doesn't seem like a smart business plan.
 

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Depending on options, 23k for a 2018 currently could be a really good deal. The market on used Giulias is way up compared to 3-4 months ago, I've seen a 10-15% increase in prices.

You could always buy it out and flip it for 27k+ 😂
 

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Buyout on my 2018 TI was 28k. i doubt that it will go for that much at auction. Car was problem free except for warped front rotors replaced under warranty. Turned it in because I wanted a non-sunroof car.
 

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never leased before, lease on my 19 is with Ally. I'm curious, when lease term ends is it possible to negotiate a lower buyout price (mine is $24k). I'm really thinking of keeping the car, course I still have a bit over two years left on the term
Yes, this happens all the time. You just have to ask. This was actually how I got into my Giulia. Pacifica lease end 18.8, USBank offered 16.5, I took it, sold it to Carvana once I had the title, and used the equity as a down. That being said, COVID, space issues at auction, and distressed buyers affecting the industry may have played a not insignificant role.
 

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I'll probably ask this or something similar in about 9 months. Though I may be closer to my mileage quota of 30K/2 years. So thanks.

One of the ideas I've had is when it's close, figure out if the market value is above or below my buyout. If it's below my buy out, hand the car in, and track the vin # till the car comes back on the market and pick it up as a backup driver. On the other hand, I do know for sure that I'm definitely going to go get a '21 Verde green either 2.0 or QV if they float the QV in Verde by then. Now, I don't know how feasible this Vin monitoring idea is or if it's going to work. I am hopeful because of course, they the used Giulias don't seem to fly off the lot.

Due to Covid, my leased 18 Ti Sport will only have around 32K miles out of the 39K I paid for. My buyout is around $23K. Other than a bad oil pump solenoid, it has been very reliable, though I am somewhat concerned my dealer did not actually perform my first "free" oil change, hence the solenoid. I have no proof of this though, and the car continues to run very (very) strong. No squeaks or rattles. Beautiful paint. Wonderful seats. Honestly just a fu#king epic car. Should I:

Buy my vehicle that I know has been treated well by me, eating the somewhat high buyout cost versus purchasing the car outright and pursue an extended warranty.

OR

Buy a used 19 or 20 for around $30-35K with low miles, picking up the tilting driver seat and maybe dynamic cruise control, albeit almost certainly with worse paint and interior wear.
 

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There is a whole class somewhere on why Auto companies do not negotiate the buy out. That car that you wrote a check on via lease, it's accruing tax benefit to you (if you have a good CPA and a business), and the bank. The banks in fact write off almost every part of the financial transaction and eventually anything they sell is a decent profit, no matter if the auction price is below what you offered as a negotiation. The only one losing is Uncle Sam. And by extension, all the honest middle-class tax payers.

This is the reason for my track-the-vin idea.

Ally does not negotiate residuals. Curiously, they also will not allow the turn-in dealer to buy the car. They insist on sending car to auction, which obviously costs them in transportation, auction fees, etc. Doesn't seem like a smart business plan.
 
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