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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone managed to jack the rear up by a single mid point without removing the under tray to put the rear on axle stands, it's a right faf removing the undertray, not doing that again, fronts easy enough but rear needs a third point I've done it using the middle of the rear subframe but only when the undertray is off.
 

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Has anyone managed to jack the rear up by a single mid point without removing the under tray to put the rear on axle stands, it's a right faf removing the undertray, not doing that again, fronts easy enough but rear needs a third point I've done it using the middle of the rear subframe but only when the undertray is off.
Why do you want to jack up the car from a single point? Many people use Jackpoint Jackstands or their competitor's equivalent, or Quickjack portable lift system when they want to be able to safely get under the car after lifting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why do you want to jack up the car from a single point? Many people use Jackpoint Jackstands or their competitor's equivalent, or Quickjack portable lift system when they want to be able to safely get under the car after lifting it.
Well because I hav'nt got access to any of those, just a trolley jack and four axle stands that go under each jack point, never had any trouble with past bmws or my giulia veloce, I do everything myself on my cars and I'm ocd with things, that's why I need to jack up the rear a quicker way rather than dropping the tray.
 

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Well because I hav'nt got access to any of those, just a trolley jack and four axle stands that go under each jack point, never had any trouble with past bmws or my giulia veloce, I do everything myself on my cars and I'm ocd with things, that's why I need to jack up the rear a quicker way rather than dropping the tray.
The answer is no. The car is designed to be lifted on the plastic lift points. Anywhere else such as the rocker panels, could damage the car or at least bend the weld seam over or crack the plastic rocker panel cover.
 

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Listen to whomever you like, but here is my experience...

drive onto a stack of boards under the front wheels. Use the jack to lift the driver side lower control arm so you can get a stand under that side. Repeat for the passenger side. use the rear diff to lift the rear and place the two rear jack stands.

I track my car, and have separate brakes for street and track, so I have done this many times for the tire and brake swaps and also fluid changes. It's a bit sketchy on the LCA, but just make sure you get the best bite you can on that LCA with the lift pad. Get the pad as far out on the LCA, towards the ball joint, that you can.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Listen to whomever you like, but here is my experience...

drive onto a stack of boards under the front wheels. Use the jack to lift the driver side lower control arm so you can get a stand under that side. Repeat for the passenger side. use the rear diff to lift the rear and place the two rear jack stands.

I track my car, and have separate brakes for street and track, so I have done this many times for the tire and brake swaps and also fluid changes. It's a bit sketchy on the LCA, but just make sure you get the best bite you can on that LCA with the lift pad. Get the pad as far out on the LCA, towards the ball joint, that you can.
You can't jack the rear on the diff! This is the point I'm trying to say there's a flush undertray covering it! Also I'd jack it on the rear cross member behind the diff rather than on the diff.
Front is no probs I've got a better way than yours for the front, drive onto some 6"x2" wood then in the centre of the front undertray in the middle there's a torx30 fastener that needs removing,remove that then I've made a steel bush that fits in the recess secured with a 6mm diameter bolt through it , (this bolt fits into the front cross member, drop the front tray and have a look, like I did at first) , screw that in then fit a rubber Puck over it with a countersunk for the bolt head to fit in, the top face of the Puck should fit flush with the undertray, then insert your trolley jack and jack the front up, easy! Done it many times.
No such luck with the rear as the full flush undertray needs to be removed first, that's the balls ache, no quick solution there! And this is the question I'm asking.
 

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You can't jack the rear on the diff! This is the point I'm trying to say there's a flush undertray covering it! Also I'd jack it on the rear cross member behind the diff rather than on the diff.
Front is no probs I've got a better way than yours for the front, drive onto some 6"x2" wood then in the centre of the front undertray in the middle there's a torx30 fastener that needs removing,remove that then I've made a steel bush that fits in the recess secured with a 6mm diameter bolt through it , (this bolt fits into the front cross member, drop the front tray and have a look, like I did at first) , screw that in then fit a rubber Puck over it with a countersunk for the bolt head to fit in, the top face of the Puck should fit flush with the undertray, then insert your trolley jack and jack the front up, easy! Done it many times.
No such luck with the rear as the full flush undertray needs to be removed first, that's the balls ache, no quick solution there! And this is the question I'm asking.
Oh crap, I'm sorry I missed that it was a QV. Hmmm
 
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I have got my QV up on 4 jack stands a couple of time using a floor jack. But it is a bit sketchy and I don't recommend it. I ended up getting a quickjack because of my QV and because of this.

Not a single point like you want. What I did was use a trimmed down hockey puck so it is not so wide and put the floor jack right up against the rear wheel from behind. There is a small gap between diffuser and a suitable suspension piece for lifting...can't remember exactly what piece off the top of my head. I did this as the last step as I had already got the car on 3 jack stands at this point. I again, I don't recommend it. The car in the end was on jack stands on the 4 jack points. PIA. (this is not meant to be a step by step how to)
 

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Well because I hav'nt got access to any of those, just a trolley jack and four axle stands that go under each jack point, never had any trouble with past bmws or my giulia veloce, I do everything myself on my cars and I'm ocd with things, that's why I need to jack up the rear a quicker way rather than dropping the tray.
OK but beware: my Jag E-type was seriously messed up by someone who lifted the vehicle from "sturdy looking" points that apparently were not sturdy enough.
The systems that I described cost $200 to $1000 in the USA. I have no idea about availability where you are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK but beware: my Jag E-type was seriously messed up by someone who lifted the vehicle from "sturdy looking" points that apparently were not sturdy enough.
The systems that I described cost $200 to $1000 in the USA. I have no idea about availability where you are.
Well E type jags are made out of chocolate! 😂
I'm in The UK allthough I'm on hols in Greece at the moment hence my flags Greek
 

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Well E type jags are made out of chocolate! 😂
I'm in The UK allthough I'm on hols in Greece at the moment hence my flags Greek
I never encountered any chocolate when working on my E-type :). I will admit that although the design has a safety cage and crush zone, the safety cage surrounds the engine and the passengers sit in the crush zone. They have some clever design features (so does Giulia) and hacking at the car without consideration for the unusual features can destroy the car. In the case of an etype, a popular way to pull the transmission to install a new clutch is to cut out the transmission tunnel, then re-install it with sheet metal screws. However the transmission tunnel is a stressed member of the chassis and the horrible mod transfers stress onto the rockers. Look for stress cracks in the lead work on an Etype, it is a tell-tale sign that the transmission tunnel has been hacked. This issue does not happen suddenly, so mechanics still do it.

Anyway, I have no idea if Giulia type 952 has any similar weak spots and I really do not want to find out. I prefer to stick with lifting the car the way the designers intended.
 

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If only they'd ever get them back in stock 😫
Try getting on their waiting list. It is what I did.
I see that they doubled the price since I bought mine, making Quickjack look better.
I guess if you consistently cannot make product fast enough to fill orders you might not be charging enough.
 

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Has anyone managed to jack the rear up by a single mid point without removing the under tray to put the rear on axle stands, it's a right faf removing the undertray, not doing that again, fronts easy enough but rear needs a third point I've done it using the middle of the rear subframe but only when the undertray is off.
If the roof is not carbon fiber, perhaps you could use a large round electromagnet on a crane like in junkyards. That's a joke.
 
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