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Is there any chance of increasing the efficiency of the water to air intercooler on the 2.0T system? Intake air temp seems to be an issue while on a track with decent track temperatures. (~200F IAT).

Without redesigning / replacing the IC built in to the intake manifold, how can we decrease the water temp running through there? Tie in to the AC system? Would an additional radiator help much? Maybe the system is just not able to exchange that much energy. @[email protected] any ideas?
 

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Is there any chance of increasing the efficiency of the water to air intercooler on the 2.0T system? Intake air temp seems to be an issue while on a track with decent track temperatures. (~200F IAT).

Without redesigning / replacing the IC built in to the intake manifold, how can we decrease the water temp running through there? Tie in to the AC system? Would an additional radiator help much? Maybe the system is just not able to exchange that much energy. @[email protected] any ideas?
How did you measure that temperature? The intercooled intake air exists for only a short distance between the heat exchanger in the intake manifold and the intake valves. I believe you need to pop open the intake manifold and thread your thermocouple around the heat exchanger (may require pulling the exchanger out).

If you measure the temperature inside the plastic manifold that goes over the top of the engine 200F seems a little low according to "the web".

For the record, the Demon comes with a liquid based intercooler that uses the AC system for a little "extra". I expect that this is useful for short, infrequent bursts of power (drag racing) and not so much for tracking, but I could be wrong...

For a quick boost at minimal cost for your drag racing efforts, maybe dump a handful of these in your low temp coolant reservoir;


Water and methanol injection can also lower intake temps, but require a tune and may cause other issues.
 

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From the actual IAT sensor readings. ~200F is getting way too hot and has a direct negative affect on performance. Being able to cool that down even 20* or to keep it under 180F would be great. Colder is better.

When I say track, I mean road course. These aren't drag strip cars. :p This is mainly heat soak, not charge temps, that is causing the issue. Without some venting and/or duct work, the heat soak issue isn't going away. I was toying with the idea of installing a small FMIC, but I hate increasing the charge pipe lengths.
 

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I wonder exactly what fluid is in our heat exchangers? Back in the day I ran a bored/stroked/cammed/supercharged 331 (94 Mustang GT) on a completely stock cooling system (making 460whp vs. the factory 180 or so). I was running distilled water, Redline Water Wetter, and a synthetic waterpump lubricant. My waterpump (and all accessories) were underdriven (pulley swap). That water wetter did wonders for thermal conduction and reducing surface tension (it is a surfactant, so the theory was better contact with the metal parts and thus removing more heat). I wonder if a better fluid (since that's what's carrying heat from the intake charge to the heat exchangers) would help? (or maybe the stuff in there is already pretty high tech - hard to say). Ducting more air to the heat exchangers could be helpful as well, so long as it's not increasing drag enough to offset the cooling benefits.

I also wonder if the 2.0T setup would benefit from the QV's vented hood? A friend had a turbo Civic (surprisingly fast) that had major heat soak issues. Venting the hood did wonders.
 

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From the actual IAT sensor readings. ~200F is getting way too hot and has a direct negative affect on performance. Being able to cool that down even 20* or to keep it under 180F would be great. Colder is better.

When I say track, I mean road course. These aren't drag strip cars. :p This is mainly heat soak, not charge temps, that is causing the issue. Without some venting and/or duct work, the heat soak issue isn't going away. I was toying with the idea of installing a small FMIC, but I hate increasing the charge pipe lengths.
Do you know where the IAT sensor is placed?
 

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Do you know where the IAT sensor is placed?
No, I'm trying to figure that out. here's the charge pipe with the BOV and some other sensor, maybe pressure sensor. I hope that's not the IAT cuz that's a terrible placement as you stated. We need real post-IC readings, not pre-IC.

91147


I'm hoping that one of these harness connectors are for the IAT...
91148
 

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Are you sure your data is correct? You shouldn't be seeing heat soak on a road course at all once you get moving...it's usually only a "thing" when sitting. I just looked at my (QV) logs at mid-ohio on hot july day and my IATs stayed pretty consistent between 115 and 130f. The first session we sat on grid for like 15 min and IAT climbed to 165 prior to going on track, but came down to < 130 within 20 seconds once we got moving.
 

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Are you sure your data is correct? You shouldn't be seeing heat soak on a road course at all once you get moving...it's usually only a "thing" when sitting. I just looked at my (QV) logs at mid-ohio on hot july day and my IATs stayed pretty consistent between 115 and 130f. The first session we sat on grid for like 15 min and IAT climbed to 165 prior to going on track, but came down to < 130 within 20 seconds once we got moving.
Two totally different beasts my friend! I personally didn't have an issue at my event, track temps were 50-70 F through the weekend. BUT! Someone else reported data from their Giulia on a track day where temps were closer to 100F. While lapping their IAT reported 198F at certain times, and the driver indicated that they could feel the power being pulled. While both the QV and 2.0T use water to air intercoolers, the quads are at least in the line of fire of the airflow from the grill/fans. how much of a difference that makes, I know not. There are also hood vents, and active aero. Does the front splitter direct air to engine bay at all?
 

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From what I see in the service manual I suspect that Giulia 2.0L does not have a proper IAT sensor. It does has a temperature sensor for the intercooler temperature, which is mounted on the upper coolant line on the rear most part of the intake manifold. Depending on which way the coolant flows inside of the intercooler, this might reflect the temperature of the incoming air (seems more likely) or the air being supplied to the engine.

Of course, it is also possible that the 2.0L needs a bigger water pump in the intercooler system, particularly for tuned engines.
 

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Just found the data plot. I was a tad exuberant with my numbers, but still hot. High of 190.

Just to clarify, I posted that log on facebook and it was not from my car. I grabbed it off N54tech forums from a Giulia owner with JB4 just to show how crazy IATs were on this platform. These were not on the track but were street pulls to redline. There's a few more logs posted from other users on N54tech if you want to look at more of them.
 

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I think the key is getting more cooling capacity out of the stock water side radiator through better air flow/materials/design. Not much is feasible with that integrated intercooler.

I wonder if the pump is variable speed and could be increased (especially if you up the boost).
 

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Just to clarify, I posted that log on facebook and it was not from my car. I grabbed it off N54tech forums from a Giulia owner with JB4 just to show how crazy IATs were on this platform. These were not on the track but were street pulls to redline. There's a few more logs posted from other users on N54tech if you want to look at more of them.

JB4 had some IAT scaling issues early on
 

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I think the key is getting more cooling capacity out of the stock water side radiator through better air flow/materials/design. Not much is feasible with that integrated intercooler.

I wonder if the pump is variable speed and could be increased (especially if you up the boost).
I'm assuming if someone were to fab an upgraded/bigger radiator it would help. Unsure if there's enough room for that though

As for the pump I was thinking the same. I know on the BMW N54/N55 platform that was an option and also kicking the fan on 100% all the time
 
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