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I set and kept the power bleeder at 30PSI per the factory procedures. The bleed sequence is always inside then outside bleeder; start at front drivers side going clockwise around the car. (inner front drivers, outer front drivers, inner front passenger, outer front passenger, etc.)
I just had the brakes bleed when I bought it at the end of the year, so no need to do the job yet (though brake pads are most likely ready)... but thanks for pointing out the bleeding sequence! I doubt I would have bothered to pull up the service manual before starting. I'm pretty sure I would have started on the passenger rear out of habit if you hadn't mentioned this.
 

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2018 Giulia Ti Sport Q4
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Discussion Starter #462
Can anyone confirm that Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport) will leave the damper settings alone? A Facebook member stated that their active suspension works in this mode without the CDCM upgrade.
 

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Can anyone confirm that Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport) will leave the damper settings alone? A Facebook member stated that their active suspension works in this mode without the CDCM upgrade.
Some cars had a version of the CDCM which supports the hardest mode (Race) out of the box.
I've heard this from someone on another forum.
Sadly my car wasn't one of the lucky ones.
 

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Can anyone confirm that Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport) will leave the damper settings alone? A Facebook member stated that their active suspension works in this mode without the CDCM upgrade.
Yes it does. I use it because i have active dampers. Otherwise if using type 2 i would just have to press the damper button in race mode to get it to mid damper setting and out of the wonky race mode soft/stiff setting

If i do a reprogrammed chassis module ill switch to type 2
 

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I believe that is stelvios right?
No, it was a 2.0 Q4 "Veloce" Giulia, IIRC.

Also, the Diesel CDCM-Software has Mid/Mid in Race mode (Button does nothing).
This is what I'm running at the moment.
 

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I used type 3 for a while and couldn't feel any difference in damper stiffness between all driving modes.

Now with the QV CDCM and type 2 there is a significant difference in stiffness. Also the steering feels harder in D and R.
 

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I used type 3 for a while and couldn't feel any difference in damper stiffness between all driving modes.

Now with the QV CDCM and type 2 there is a significant difference in stiffness. Also the steering feels harder in D and R.
I've also used the QV CDCM Software for a few weeks and for me it was just too hard in A/N mode.
It affects the other modes aswell - not just Race. Maybe it was the combination with the Eibach springs - who knows.

Anyway. The Diesel CDCM Software does for me what I want. Mid in Race and everything else is as it was before.
 

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Can anyone confirm that Byte 88=EC (Type 3/DNA/Sport) will leave the damper settings alone? A Facebook member stated that their active suspension works in this mode without the CDCM upgrade.
I've been using this for half a year now at least and it seems to behave properly for me. I have not experienced a soft front/stiff rear. Not sure if theres an actual way to confirm this though?
 

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I've also used the QV CDCM Software for a few weeks and for me it was just too hard in A/N mode.
It affects the other modes aswell - not just Race. Maybe it was the combination with the Eibach springs - who knows.

Anyway. The Diesel CDCM Software does for me what I want. Mid in Race and everything else is as it was before.
Yes, with the QV CDCM dampers are stiffer in all modes. Since I upgraded to non RFT tires the ride is very good even in R.
 

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Yes, with the QV CDCM dampers are stiffer in all modes. Since I upgraded to non RFT tires the ride is very good even in R.
For me, it was just a bit "too much". (QV CDCM, Eibach springs and 18" staggered Michelin PS4)
 

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Stiff ride is probably due to the Eibach springs. If I recall correctly, the roads in Austria are much better than what we have in Florida.
 

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Has anyone found how to retain D pedal map? I really want to have race mod for winter donuts but not ready to sacrifice the D pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #474
Has anyone found how to retain D pedal map? I really want to have race mod for winter donuts but not ready to sacrifice the D pedal.
No.
 

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Hey everyone, I just installed the race button on my 2018 Giulia 2.0 Q4. Everything went smoothly except at the end of the proxy alignment the DTCM failed. After I finished everything I was left with the flashing odometer. I have type 2 and honestly the car feels faster than ever. Lots of people saying type 2 makes the engine resort to N in all modes. Its weird for me because the car feels way faster than my phase 2 so I'm kind of confused with it. It could be because traction control is off but I doubt it makes that big of a difference. The transmission is also much more aggressive and quick. So I'm kind of debating if I should request EC to put the phase 2 map in N mode. But back to the DTCM, I read the forums on it but I would really appreciate some more clarification on the update I need for it? Also would I even need to update it, I have a flashing odometer but everything else seems to be working fine including Race mode. After race mode I received a 5 sec 0-60 and a 13.4 1/4 mile. Its all honestly weird because now I'm thinking phase 2 worsened the performance of my car. I would really appreciate everyones opinion and advice.
 

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I simply got the DTCM update based on the info published here and had no DTCM related proxy alignment issues. Who knows what is going on in your transfer without a valid proxy alignment.

I don't think there is any power difference between stock N and D. The transmission and pedal behaviors differ to make the performance in D appear to be better.

I found that the brake pedal is a bit harder in R and that stopping distance seems to be reduced. The fast shifts in R make full manual control of the 8 speed transmission usable.
 

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Hey everyone, I just installed the race button on my 2018 Giulia 2.0 Q4. Everything went smoothly except at the end of the proxy alignment the DTCM failed. After I finished everything I was left with the flashing odometer. I have type 2 and honestly the car feels faster than ever. Lots of people saying type 2 makes the engine resort to N in all modes. Its weird for me because the car feels way faster than my phase 2 so I'm kind of confused with it. It could be because traction control is off but I doubt it makes that big of a difference. The transmission is also much more aggressive and quick. So I'm kind of debating if I should request EC to put the phase 2 map in N mode. But back to the DTCM, I read the forums on it but I would really appreciate some more clarification on the update I need for it? Also would I even need to update it, I have a flashing odometer but everything else seems to be working fine including Race mode. After race mode I received a 5 sec 0-60 and a 13.4 1/4 mile. Its all honestly weird because now I'm thinking phase 2 worsened the performance of my car. I would really appreciate everyones opinion and advice.
I found by rerunning the proxy alignment a couple of times I could eventually get all modules to correctly align.

I even went and got a new OBD2 dongle for Multiecuscan, and that made no difference. Try try again.

Hope this helps,
 
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I believe my proxy issue stemmed from the parking sensors picking up the garage wall when running the procedure. This also seemed to be the case when trying to unlock the ebrake from BMS mode. Moving the car solved both issues for me at least.

After RDNA was installed, I could tell the throttle response in D mode was slower. I have a Remus Responder (throttle control) and used to run it on Sport 2 mode in D. I now run it in Race 2. That still seems a bit off compared to the previous D mode setting, but close enough. As for the shifts. I’ve only been using the paddles since adding them.
 

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Having some trouble installing my RDNA. I have all necessary equimoment.
After installing and going through proxi and after clearing dash codes. My (D) shows 2 of the traction things before going into race. But after selecting race it will not work. . .
I then go do a burnout and the (D) no longer shows the 2 traction symbols... As if it clears them. What do i need?
2017 base giulia 😒
 
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