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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Along with my back up camera failing this weekend, I got a nasty screw in my front passenger tire. As it's a sunday and everything is closed, including my dealership, was just wondering if anyone knew if the tires come with road hazard when the car was bought new, as I have no idea.

Also, has anyone had any luck getting a RF puncture repaired? I really do not want to have to purchase new tires. Buying a whole set of tires to replace one punctured and 3 perfectly fine tires is not my ideal situation (Q4).
 

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I don’t think it comes with the car as I have to pay monthly for that benefit that was added when I bought the car
 

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how many miles do you have on the tires? Probably only need one if there's not significant wear
 

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Thought I read run flats were not repairable or perhaps that's only if you've driven significant miles on them in the very low pressure condition?
 

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Thought I read run flats were not repairable or perhaps that's only if you've driven significant miles on them in the very low pressure condition?
I've had runflats on a BMW 135 for years and have had two screw/nail punctures repaired by a tire dealer just as readily as a regular tire. Just matters where the puncture is. As long as its in the main tread area you should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
how many miles do you have on the tires? Probably only need one if there's not significant wear
At the moment 5k miles. I'm guessing one replacement could be okay, it's not a ridiculous amount of wear. Most tire shops I know have insisted on replacing all 4 at the same time in the past.

Thought I read run flats were not repairable or perhaps that's only if you've driven significant miles on them in the very low pressure condition?
I did read this, but then I also read otherwise, hence my confusion.

I've had runflats on a BMW 135 for years and have had two screw/nail punctures repaired by a tire dealer just as readily as a regular tire. Just matters where the puncture is. As long as its in the main tread area you should be ok.
Luckily it isn't the sidewall! Hopefully will just get it repaired. Let's see what happens!
 

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If the puncture is in the thread area it is completely fixable....I had a screw in tire last Sunday and local tire shop fixed it in 15 minutes (patched from inside just as normal tires). My leak was super tiny and shop was less then a mile away, if you have to drive somewhere far (50 miles ie) RFT might get damaged beyond repair but dont get easily suckered into buying new tire let alone 4 of them
 

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At worst 2 tyres to match wear if they are more than 1/2 worn. Fronts and rears wear at different rates in any case so never a need to do all 4.
 

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have had run flats since 2008.
as others have said, IF it's on the tread, amd IF you didn't run them with low/no air, it is not an issue.
you can plug them on the rim, you can have it removed and patched from the inside - a good shop will know not to "buff' the inside too much for glue, as the "tread" construction area is thinner than standard tires.
I've had many done over the years, and one in the last two weeks.
 

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as other's have said:
**5k on 3 tires and 1 new should not be an issue at all, if your concerned put the new one in rear, you have a Q4 correct? unless you have staggered set-up??
** run-craps can be fixed as has been said, it just needs to be in the thread and not a sidewall or close to the sidewall...plug or patch will work
**not sure road hazard would even cover a screw/nail...always thought that was for pot-holes or big debris on the road, but certainly could be wrong...however your car does not come with it unless you paid for it as an extra I'm fairly certain...

g/l with the camera....first time I've heard of a failure with that
 

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Silly question: Q4 with LSD and one tire needs to be replaced: which one? LSDs do not like mismatched tire sizes left-right. Q4 does not like mismatched tires front-rear; also mismatch the fronts and there is little wear influence on the tires to get them to match.
 

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Along with my back up camera failing this weekend, I got a nasty screw in my front passenger tire. As it's a sunday and everything is closed, including my dealership, was just wondering if anyone knew if the tires come with road hazard when the car was bought new, as I have no idea.

Also, has anyone had any luck getting a RF puncture repaired? I really do not want to have to purchase new tires. Buying a whole set of tires to replace one punctured and 3 perfectly fine tires is not my ideal situation (Q4).
I got a screw in my front left RF - P7 Cinturato.,,,,, Discount Tire was able to repair it without issue
 

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While all tires can be patched, just remember the tire is no longer “speed rated”. Once a tire has been repaired, its speed rating is see nullified, and it considered a normal (unrated)passenger tire. A speed rating is simply a warranty that a tire can proceed at a high rate of speed, for a sustained period, without failure. Once the original design has had something sharp poked through it, then had that hole rasped to ensure no sharp wires protrude, and then had a patch or plug/patch installed, there is no assurance that something critical to its speed rating has not been damaged.

The repair of run-flats is also a concern because of their nature. As long as you never “used” the run-flat ability, the tire is easily repaired like a normal tire. If you have used the run-flat ability (driven for any distance with low or zero tire pressure) then the tire should (theoretically) be replaced. Running with low/zero pressure feeds a lot of heat and pressure into the sidewalks of the run-flats and will compromise their strength. This will mean that the next low/zero pressure event may not end well, but also that the tire could fail in normal use.
 
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yes, if you ran it with little or no air, it's toast.
but, remember the tread area isn't really structural, so patching it for normal use isn't an issue - autobahn/tracking may be a different matter BUT, it is still a run flat, IF you had a failure of a plug or patch, it would still give you the safety a run flat provides.
these do not get the "blow out" situation some refer to, which isn't really a blow out if you've experienced a blow out on a tube type tire.
 

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I had a screw in the left rear.. Just pumped it up and drove it over to Les Schwabb where they repaired it free.. Run flats can be repaired unless the damage is in the sidewall......took em a dozen donuts later that day..best of luck to you..
 

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While all tires can be patched, just remember the tire is no longer “speed rated”. Once a tire has been repaired, its speed rating is see nullified, and it considered a normal (unrated)passenger tire. A speed rating is simply a warranty that a tire can proceed at a high rate of speed, for a sustained period, without failure. Once the original design has had something sharp poked through it, then had that hole rasped to ensure no sharp wires protrude, and then had a patch or plug/patch installed, there is no assurance that something critical to its speed rating has not been damaged.

The repair of run-flats is also a concern because of their nature. As long as you never “used” the run-flat ability, the tire is easily repaired like a normal tire. If you have used the run-flat ability (driven for any distance with low or zero tire pressure) then the tire should (theoretically) be replaced. Running with low/zero pressure feeds a lot of heat and pressure into the sidewalks of the run-flats and will compromise their strength. This will mean that the next low/zero pressure event may not end well, but also that the tire could fail in normal use.
At what point does "low" pressure start?
 

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This is a summary, from Tire Rack, of what the major tire manufacturers say. They also say that running up to 1/3 of the "range" of a run-flat "generally" won't damage it. From this and other sources, I would put the "low" pressure at about 24-28 pounds, so a good guideline would be 24 pounds or less IS "low".

"Run-flat tires offer drivers temporary extended mobility even after a puncture allows complete air pressure loss. However, even run-flat tires will fail if driven too fast, too far or too heavily loaded when flat.

For this reason, run-flat tires may only be used on vehicles equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) that alerts the driver if one or more tires have lost 25% of their recommended inflation pressure. Illumination of the TPMS warning light identifies that at least one tire is losing/has lost air and establishes the beginning of the extended mobility range the driver can carefully continue driving to escape inclement weather, unsafe surroundings or insufficient visibility, etc.

Note that a run-flat tire's endurance is dependent on operating conditions such as the flat tire's position on the vehicle, vehicle load, ambient temperature, driving speed and distance traveled. Run-flat tires cannot be driven faster than 50 miles per hour and typically offer up to 50 miles of extended mobility. Selected applications, based on vehicle and the run-flat tire design, can range from just 25 miles up to 200 miles. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to determine what you should expect.

Vehicle handling with run-flat tires at zero pressure is different than at full pressure, too. Aggressive acceleration, cornering and braking should be avoided, as well as any unusual service conditions such as carrying heavy loads or towing a trailer.

Most tire manufacturers recommend replacement of run-flat tires that have been driven after the TPMS light has illuminated. Run-flat tires driven with low or no air pressure may have experienced irreparable internal structural damage that is not visible in a non-destructive examination. While most run-flat tires offer a promise of temporary extended mobility at speeds up to 50 miles per hour, Tire Rack recommends driving the slowest safe speed below 50 miles per hour, and the shortest distance to a service facility."
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So update, it was a slow leak. Essentially the tire was still holding air. Drove with it fully flat about 0.25 mile to my local gas station. Pumped it up to normal PSI, then went to my dealer. They had no problem fixing it. As many have said, if the puncture or damage is to the sidewall or near the side wall it’s not going to be repaired. The screw was in the main tread area, so they were able to patch it up, and vacuum and wash the car!
 
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