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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going along the lines that maybe the car has a battery issue of some sort, I thought I would buy a trickle charger/battery maintainer. Alfa Romeo sell a CTEK charger branded as Alfa. It's the 4.3 model. So I saved myself $20 and bought the CTEK on Amazon without Alfa written on it.

I drove my car to work Wednesday, Thursday and Friday last week (unusual for me) and I haven't driven it since. So the CTEK arrived today and I installed the wires to the battery correctly, connected it and plugged it in. CTEK have 8 steps. It started off on the second step. A minute later it went to step 3. Then 35 minutes later it went to step 4. Which means the battery has reached 80% charge and the charging current is reduced until battery reaches 100% and moves on to step 5 which is analysis. I'm still here sat watching it to see when it hits step 5 to know when it gets to 100%.

My point being for those that have this device, is a 35 minute step 3 normal? How long has this taken anyone else?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That seems unusual... How long is your commute?
24 miles, 35 minutes each way. But bare in mind I don't drive the car that often usually. It's done 3800 miles in 10 months. I last drove it Friday.

But even with not driving it much I drove it 3 days in a row for about 6 hours total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Minor update. It spent 40 minutes at stage 4. It then did step 5. And now it's in step 7, which is basically a monitor. Step 8 is recharge if voltage drops.
 

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I use a battery tender. my car lives on the east coast and sits for months between drives/visits. it seems to do well and the car seems fully charged...knock on wood. I hope to visit this weekend!!!!
 

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Minor update. It spent 40 minutes at stage 4. It then did step 5. And now it's in step 7, which is basically a monitor. Step 8 is recharge if voltage drops.
That distance/frequency should be enough to keep the battery charged adequately. I don't think it should loose that much charge, but i'm not an expert here. Glad the tender is working, I've always run them by default on my cars. The only time I had challenges is with lipo batts using lipo chargers if/when there is a parasitic drain in the system...without the lipo charger on every night, the lipo batt would go dead. #racecarproblems. Check and make sure you don't see any swelling of your batter just in case you've got a bad one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm sure you've probably already taken this into consideration, but just to check: have you made sure not to bypass the IBS when installing the eyelets?
I did it per info found on another page. I put the negative where nut marked as '2' is shown. I assume this is correct.

 
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Yes, that is correct. A clearer image (where the right nut to use is the grey one just to the left of the battery module body):

A warning regarding this advice: although the information is correct, if you try to install the Alfa Romeo branded battery maintainer permanent leads to this nut/stud you will encounter problems. In particular, the stud is larger than the hole in the lead and the plastic insulation around the lead is too close to the hole to be able to clear the nut. I used a tapered ream to enlarge the hole and a dull hacksaw to trim back the plastic.

Also, said nut is extremely tight. Do not try to loosen it on the battery as you are likely to damage the battery in the process. Instead completely remove the negative clamp from the battery and use a tool (like a vise) to hold it while the nut is loosened.

I was able to attach the positive lead to one of the studs in the power distribution module, but only after adding 4 washers that are needed to make the plastic on the lead clear various parts inside the module.

It is probably better to attach the leads inside of one of the fuse boxes. Perhaps the one in the bottom of the trunk?
Why there were no installation instructions with the part is a good question.
 

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A warning regarding this advice: although the information is correct, if you try to install the Alfa Romeo branded battery maintainer permanent leads to this nut/stud you will encounter problems. In particular, the stud is larger than the hole in the lead and the plastic insulation around the lead is too close to the hole to be able to clear the nut. I used a tapered ream to enlarge the hole and a dull hacksaw to trim back the plastic.
.....
Which is why I simply connected the negative lead to the chassis.... There's a metal internal chassis piece above the battery that's convenient. Just drilled a hole in that and put a screw through to connect negative eyelet.;)
 

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Amazon also sells the CTEK direct wire kits with larger loops - they have 3 different sizes. I tried to post a link but didn’t work. Search “CTEK comfort connect”. They are $7.99. They also have an extension cable if you need one. It will come up as part of the search.

Ray
 

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Amazon also sells the CTEK direct wire kits with larger loops - they have 3 different sizes. I tried to post a link but didn’t work. Search “CTEK comfort connect”. They are $7.99. They also have an extension cable if you need one. It will come up as part of the search.

Ray
Thanks. I found these on a different site, as I could not find them on Amazon:

https://smartercharger.com/accessories/#CTEK Comfort Connect

I have no idea if these guys are any good at fulfilling orders as I have not bought anything from them, but I think this is direct from CTEK.

The stud on the negative battery clamp is probably 8mm.
 

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Which is why I simply connected the negative lead to the chassis.... There's a metal internal chassis piece above the battery that's convenient. Just drilled a hole in that and put a screw through to connect negative eyelet.;)
Thanks for the pictures. I used the same stud on the power distribution unit but put a stack of washers underneath the eyelet because I did not like the way that the eyelet bent otherwise. The CTEK eyelets could use a design change to allow a little more space for clearing nuts and such; adding a tiny 2mm or so would go a long way towards making installation easier.

Please also note that the charger is not weather resistant, so it should be in the trunk or the car should be in a garage. I think I will go get a "flat" power cord at my local HW store to make leaving the charger in the trunk nicer.

On a related subject, while I had it out of the car to loosen the nut I noticed some corrosion on the negative quick disconnect stud on the battery clamp, making me wonder if some of the reported battery failures are actually battery clamp failures.
 

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CTEK chargers are IP65 rated, so while they can't withstand high pressure water jets or be submerged, they are weather resistant.
I'm just going by what it says in the safety instructions.

"2) Do not expose to Rain or Snow."

2 1/2 pages of "safety instructions", 0 lines of how/where to connect the hardwire harness to a Giulia...

Do you know if the stud is 8mm?
 

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Slightly off topic. We have a battery minder for charging RV and our other car batteries but may look to picking up the . Not looking at tracking but we did just get a Micro-Start XP-10 Heavy Duty Jump Starter to take with us so we can hopefully jump ourselves when needed. It is a pretty compact jump start kit.

Anyone use this or something similar? Not really meaning to highjack but in addition to maintaining the charge wondering if this will be useful on the QV or any Giulia.

Thoughts. Also for the CTEK, those cables for maintaining or restoring power remain on the battery until it is fully charged correct? Meaning you don't leave them on?
 

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....
Thoughts. Also for the CTEK, those cables for maintaining or restoring power remain on the battery until it is fully charged correct? Meaning you don't leave them on?
Nope, you just leave the connections permanently attached to the battery, and connect/disconnect the ctek using the intermediate plug you can see in my picture....

If you just want to use a battery charger every now and then, you can also temporarily connect it to the battery using the supplied alligator clips, or better, to the jump start connections under the hood.....
 

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