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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are owners doing for a break-in procedure for the QV? I may be missing it, but do not notice anything in the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Manual says take it easy first 1,000 Miles or something along those lines. I may have gone into the red zone 1 or 2 times but nothing crazy.
Thanks -- that's a plan.

Intend to order the Michelens tomorrow.
 

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Having not found sufficient information on the user manual i decided to do my own thing. Which is the following:
first 1000km with less than 4krpm and 50-60ish% throttle (normal mode)
1000 to 1600km with less than 4.5krpm and up to 70ish% throttle (normal and dynamic)
1600 till 3000km with less than 5krpm and up to full throttle. (normal, dynamic and race)
3000km to 5000km full throttle and redline. (normal, dynamic and race)
5000km onwards I might occassionally use the A mode. For the time being I dont use it as I like the engine to bed in evenly. Also i deactivate stop start every time.

I think im safe with this. Bearing in mind that I have no idea what is the end of line engine testing procedure at the factory.
 

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Having not found sufficient information on the user manual i decided to do my own thing. Which is the following:
first 1000km with less than 4krpm and 50-60ish% throttle (normal mode)
1000 to 1600km with less than 4.5krpm and up to 70ish% throttle (normal and dynamic)
1600 till 3000km with less than 5krpm and up to full throttle. (normal, dynamic and race)
3000km to 5000km full throttle and redline. (normal, dynamic and race)
5000km onwards I might occassionally use the A mode. For the time being I dont use it as I like the engine to bed in evenly. Also i deactivate stop start every time.

I think im safe with this. Bearing in mind that I have no idea what is the end of line engine testing procedure at the factory.
I'll email my Alfa trainer and see if there is an established process. Also look into the break-in process for the Ferrari California Turbo as the engines are errr similar. I'll do the same
 

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I'll email my Alfa trainer and see if there is an established process. Also look into the break-in process for the Ferrari California Turbo as the engines are errr similar. I'll do the same

Its funny there are so many clips of dealerships and people who are reviewing a car not following procedures online.

I saw one dealership (local) revving their unit they are selling it to the public.
 

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Its funny there are so many clips of dealerships and people who are reviewing a car not following procedures online.

I saw one dealership (local) revving their unit they are selling it to the public.
I was just going to bring that up ! Reviewers and even shop guys will go in there, rev the heck out of them, lock it back like nothing happened and then they get sold to the customer who has no idea who mucked around with it, so how do you ever know for sure.
 

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Drive the car spiritedly but not abusively. Allow the car to see different Rpms, different engine loads. Always allow for fluids to reach proper operating temperatures before driving the car spiritedly.

I will change the oil at 1k and after that point drive the car quite a bit harder.
 
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Having not found sufficient information on the user manual i decided to do my own thing. Which is the following:
first 1000km with less than 4krpm and 50-60ish% throttle (normal mode)
1000 to 1600km with less than 4.5krpm and up to 70ish% throttle (normal and dynamic)
1600 till 3000km with less than 5krpm and up to full throttle. (normal, dynamic and race)
3000km to 5000km full throttle and redline. (normal, dynamic and race)
5000km onwards I might occassionally use the A mode. For the time being I dont use it as I like the engine to bed in evenly. Also i deactivate stop start every time.

I think im safe with this. Bearing in mind that I have no idea what is the end of line engine testing procedure at the factory.
There are no specific instructions for break in other than the 1,000 mile time frame from Alfa.
 

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I'll email my Alfa trainer and see if there is an established process. Also look into the break-in process for the Ferrari California Turbo as the engines are errr similar. I'll do the same

Its funny there are so many clips of dealerships and people who are reviewing a car not following procedures online.

I saw one dealership (local) revving their unit they are selling it to the public.
Woww. No way of lowering the front aero as a consumer. Service department may have an override. I'll check when I get back Saturday. Just spent a day of track with the QV, autocross with Giulia Ti and product training!
 

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Woww. No way of lowering the front aero as a consumer. Service department may have an override. I'll check when I get back Saturday. Just spent a day of track with the QV, autocross with Giulia Ti and product training!

Thanks. Yea I may opt for manual removal for film protection
 

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Thanks. Yea I may opt for manual removal for film protection
Finally found the answer. Apologize for the wait. The only way to lower the front aero is through technicians plug in. (witech). With them being two separate electric actuators there is no way to lower both manually and keep them in sync. They can lower it and I believe it doesn't raise until a key cycle is complete. So theoretically you could take it from the dealer to the place of choice but I don't know if it would go up once the car shut off or once it was started again. Hope that helps a smidge.
 

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Oil Change and Splitter

Is it necessary to lower the splitter to access the drain plug for an oil change ?
 

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Drive it like you stole it.

Break in is a myth left over from long ago except to make sure the car is put together right.
I have been preaching this here for a while, but nobody is listening.......:grin2:
 

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Drive it like you stole it.

Break in is a myth left over from long ago except to make sure the car is put together right.
Exactly how I drive it (when the wife lets me)! ;)

Race mode, manual shifting with the paddles. Ride those RPMs! Car sounds so sweet in the upper RPM range.

On thing though is the MPG goes way down in Race mode. Oh well. It's worth it.

.
 

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Exactly how I drive it (when the wife lets me)! ;)

Race mode, manual shifting with the paddles. Ride those RPMs! Car sounds so sweet in the upper RPM range.

On thing though is the MPG goes way down in Race mode. Oh well. It's worth it.

.
whats MPG:p.....we have a 90 degree V-6 Symphony under the hood...let it be heard!
 

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I have been preaching this here for a while, but nobody is listening.......:grin2:
Rings hone and set within a few minutes.

Making sure the car is up to temp and I usually do an early oil change because there is metal debris but that is caught by magnetic drain plugs. Other than that drive it as hard as I want.

The whole idea behind break in was way back when Camshafts were not hardened so the heat treating was done in the motor. You varied things to harden the metal.

If you did not the pushrods would be harder than the lobes on the camshaft and wear them down.

As long as its screwed together well your good.

What is probably more important is properly bedding brakes. Brakes work with the friction between the pad and the pad material on the rotor, not the rotor itself...you can argue that point but when you look at properly bedding brakes this is what you end up with.

No OEM will have a bedding procedures because its not exactly legal to do on most roads.
 
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