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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What did your dealer suggest for break-in period?

I was advised 500mi.

Anyone have any more insight here?

Not to compare but i remember the M3's being a bit longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
haha crap Im about to go to bed and everything is back in the car. Ill have to take a look in the AM but I think we all have confirmed this in another thread.
Not doubting you sir, i just like to read it myself, ive been looking all through the manual. Tmrw is fine, have a good night, thanks for the late replies! :D

i found the thread. lol

Mod please delete thread.
 

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http://aftersales.fiat.com/eLumData...5_EN_01_09.16_L_LG#AP_603.93.005_01_09.16.pdf

Electronic version of the manual and can't even find not. Not sure if I eve read it at this point lol.
I can see the picture of it in my head so it's definitely in there haha. I think it was when I read the euro spec manual before the car came in. Performance institute did confirm that the break in period is 1,000 miles when I asked if there was anything more in depth than the mileage at the masterclass.

Pg.140 Yellow box
 

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The cars arrived in the USA after some testing in the motherland. Mine had a few miles on it when it came across the pond. Then, the only other miles were per the dealer un-packing. Dealers are instructed to put a few miles on the car to verify that the car checks out. Car had like 33 miles on it when I picked it up.

Been a gear head all my life (still young!) and my general rule of thumb is to avoid the same RPM for any period of time during break-in. Varying the RPM forces slight oil pressure fluctuations and avoids rotational metal fatigue resonance. Self clearancing parts is a bad thing in a new motor, ha! Avoid extensive idling. No full boost for 1k miles+ Changing the oil around 1k is cheap insurance. There's bound to be some misc metal fragments/residue/etc. that ultimately finds its way into the oil filter. Though, getting rid of it sooner than later can't be a bad thing.

That being said, if someone can screen capture the 2.9TT motor recommended break-in, great!
 

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"We recommend that during the initial period, or during the first 1600 km (1000 miles), you do not drive to full car performance (e.g. excessive acceleration, long journeys at top speed, sharp braking, etc.)."
 

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The cars arrived in the USA after some testing in the motherland. Mine had a few miles on it when it came across the pond. Then, the only other miles were per the dealer un-packing. Dealers are instructed to put a few miles on the car to verify that the car checks out. Car had like 33 miles on it when I picked it up.

Been a gear head all my life (still young!) and my general rule of thumb is to avoid the same RPM for any period of time during break-in. Varying the RPM forces slight oil pressure fluctuations and avoids rotational metal fatigue resonance. Self clearancing parts is a bad thing in a new motor, ha! Avoid extensive idling. No full boost for 1k miles+ Changing the oil around 1k is cheap insurance. There's bound to be some misc metal fragments/residue/etc. that ultimately finds its way into the oil filter. Though, getting rid of it sooner than later can't be a bad thing.

That being said, if someone can screen capture the 2.9TT motor recommended break-in, great!
Engine Break-In:



Agreed on the 1K oil change, varying RPMs ect.
 

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The one I delivered had 48 when it came off the truck. I believe the 1,000 mile period goes for the 2.9 as well. That's the model I inquired about when I asked last week

Mine had 47 miles. I thought that was very weird and I was told that it was off the truck. Dealership put about 5 miles on it just to make sure it drove well and nothing to glaring. I was just wondering why so many miles when coming off the truck. I found it a bit strange.
 

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There's a sticker on the window that the dealer probably took off before you arrived that basically yes this vehicle was used for a wee bit of testing. It's not unusual though every 4C I get has 30-60 miles on it. One had 78!
 

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From my time in the Viper forums, I remember the MFR break-in policy being heavily challenged (easy break-in). Vipers with a more aggressive break-in seemed to be getting higher dyno numbers (this was many years ago).

Any thoughts?

Controversial reading: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Steve
 

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Hmm..

From my time in the Viper forums, I remember the MFR break-in policy being heavily challenged (easy break-in). Vipers with a more aggressive break-in seemed to be getting higher dyno numbers (this was many years ago).

Any thoughts?

Controversial reading: http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Steve
Steve,

Im with you on this. My quad is about a week out (coming directly to my house) and I have been trying to gather information as well. My PERSONAL experience with high performance motors is that if you break them in like a pu$$y, they'll run like a pu$$y. Ive always broken in motors hard, with lots of heat cycles and frequent fluid changes. And, of course, always warming the motor to operating temp before driving. I feel like if you do this and vary the RPM a bunch for the first 1k, you'll end up with a stronger motor.

This being said, I do not recommend deviating from the owners manual and listening to my opinions...

so theres that.
 

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I did the first 1,000 mile brake-in on our QV all on back roads, with varying RPMs, varying loads, and lots of engine braking. I think the most important part about breaking in any engine is not to cruise at a static speed for too long.

You may try to be very gentle on the engine, but with the QV you just can't do it. It wants to rev so quickly that at some point during break-in you will definitely give in to temptation and really let it rip. If you can do the full 1,000 mile brake-in without ripping up to redline a few times you have the patience of a saint.
 
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