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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear all, all advices are welcome. Thanks.

My dealer tells me that for the first 5000km I need to drive slow and change the oil at 10000 km that is to say when the first service is scheduled.

What are your thoughts/experience? Thanks
 

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There are several threads on this topic (google search alfa giulia engine break in procedure) as well as information printed in the (US) Owner's Manual or User Guide books. As for changing the engine oil (first oil service), again, there are several threads on this topic, as well.
 

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I always have driven my sports/race cars like I stole them from day one........ never had any issues.....

There are a couple different schools of thoughts on the subject, but I believe more on evidence than theory.....

Good luck.....
 

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Yes, the link that prez posted above, you will find the official Alfa break-in procedure that he kindly reformatted after I posted it from the owners manual. Just driving it “slow” isn’t exactly correct, you will want to gradually increase rpms and acceleration. Certainly after about 500 miles 800km it looks like you can start to drive it more aggressively and after 1500 miles it’s teady for the race track!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, the link that prez posted above, you will find the official Alfa break-in procedure that he kindly reformatted after I posted it from the owners manual. Just driving it “slow” isn’t exactly correct, you will want to gradually increase rpms and acceleration. Certainly after about 500 miles 800km it looks like you can start to drive it more aggressively and after 1500 miles it’s teady for the race track!
Thanks ?
 

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Dear all, all advices are welcome. Thanks.

My dealer tells me that for the first 5000km I need to drive slow and change the oil at 10000 km that is to say when the first service is scheduled.

What are your thoughts/experience? Thanks
I dont know about the first 5000 km, but max 1 year in Be and 10000 km, witchever comes first.
 

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How long do you plan to keep the car? If the answer is "forever" then follow the manufacturer's recommendation printed in the owner's manual. If the answer is 3 years, then drive it like you rented it (not drive it like you stole it). IMO besides the engine, the most important part of "breaking in" the car is bedding the brake pads. By that, I mean applying an even deposit of friction material onto the brake rotors with the right amount of heat.

See http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...ions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in

But chances are, the porters at the factory and the longshoreman at the docks loading and unloading cars onto the cargo ship have already abused the brakes and the window of opportunity to properly bed in your brake pads for maximum performance has already passed.
 

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I always have driven my sports/race cars like I stole them from day one........ never had any issues.....

There are a couple different schools of thoughts on the subject, but I believe more on evidence than theory.....

Good luck.....
I'm in this camp as well. I wouldn't track it right away, but there's no need to baby it either. Just drive normally. Most of the time, you won't be doing redline runs, as the speed of traffic and safe driving etiquette make driving a QV that fast all the time impossible.

I'm cautious about driving a new car hard, only because I don't yet know how it performs at the edge of control, and the last thing I want to do is wrap my new $80k machine around a cactus.

I understand that running a low rpm for a long period (ie--a long highway drive at constant speed) can be bad, but I've never met anyone who has had the experience of doing this and glazing the rings. For that matter, I've never actually met anyone who could tell me they ruined a (modern---built after year 2010) engine by not breaking it in properly.
 

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How long do you plan to keep the car? If the answer is "forever" then follow the manufacturer's recommendation printed in the owner's manual. If the answer is 3 years, then drive it like you rented it (not drive it like you stole it). IMO besides the engine, the most important part of "breaking in" the car is bedding the brake pads. By that, I mean applying an even deposit of friction material onto the brake rotors with the right amount of heat.

See http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...ions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in

But chances are, the porters at the factory and the longshoreman at the docks loading and unloading cars onto the cargo ship have already abused the brakes and the window of opportunity to properly bed in your brake pads for maximum performance has already passed.
This is the reason I don’t buy a used car that was leased. :frown2:
 

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If you don’t want to redline it early on, I recommend you don’t drive in manual for a while. The Quads first gear redline comes at about 20mph in Dynamic (if I recall correctly). I sometimes forget I’ve put it in manual and I will find myself bouncing off the rev limiter when starting off.
 

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This is the reason I don’t buy a used car that was leased. :frown2:
From what I can tell, your average new car buyer behaves like your average new car buyer whether they lease or use traditional financing. I'm sure there's a normal distribution. Not all owners are fastidious and some small subset are probably over cautious. Everyone else is average. This is why automakers engineer their vehicles with tolerances and safety margins.

All used cars come with risk and there is no way to be certain how a car was treated unless you sat in the car and recorded every trip with Google Glass. A thorough pre-purchase inspection and interview with the owner/seller can tell a lot about how the car was likely treated most often. But it's no guarantee. Even sweet little old ladies from Pasadena rip on their cars every now and then. I know with newer Porsches buyers care a lot about the "Motor Over Speed" report download from the DME (ECU). I don't see how a PDK equipped car can experience mechanical over-rev like a manual transmission equipped car. But apparently there are a certain number of ignition events that are allowable for various rev ranges before the warranty is declared null and void. So that can tell you something about how often the car was subject to high engine speed operation and also what the manufacturer themselves consider risky.
 

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From what I can tell, your average new car buyer behaves like your average new car buyer whether they lease or use traditional financing. I'm sure there's a normal distribution. Not all owners are fastidious and some small subset are probably over cautious. Everyone else is average. This is why automakers engineer their vehicles with tolerances and safety margins.

All used cars come with risk and there is no way to be certain how a car was treated unless you sat in the car and recorded every trip with Google Glass. A thorough pre-purchase inspection and interview with the owner/seller can tell a lot about how the car was likely treated most often. But it's no guarantee. Even sweet little old ladies from Pasadena rip on their cars every now and then. I know with newer Porsches buyers care a lot about the "Motor Over Speed" report download from the DME (ECU). I don't see how a PDK equipped car can experience mechanical over-rev like a manual transmission equipped car. But apparently there are a certain number of ignition events that are allowable for various rev ranges before the warranty is declared null and void. So that can tell you something about how often the car was subject to high engine speed operation and also what the manufacturer themselves consider risky.

Are you calling me a little ole lady from Pasadena??? Funny thing is my hubby wants to put Verizon Hum in the car. He hasn't been in it enough to figure out the tracking of the graphs in the infotainment screen yet and I am not talking.......Unless you put it in R mode which I don't the transmission won't let you do stupid stuff oh unless I downshift which of course I would not. I agree I should never generalize
 
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