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I am ready for new front brakes and the dealer said the rotors need to be replaced also as a matter of course. I mic'd the rotors and it read roughly 31 and the minimum for iron is 29.5. Any experience with not resurfacing the old rotors and leaving until 29.5 and just running new pads?

I assume the pads can be swapped without removing the center caliper bolt that is in between the two knock-out pins.

Any DIY front brake pads and rotors on the QV yet? I am interested in quirks and torque requirements.
 

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Not sure many answers are out there yet about this/your situation.

Way to be a pioneer & forge a path. I'm thinking maintenance costs will be higher on the QV than other cars, even direct competitors. Not saying it isn't worth it. Being able to do some of the work will help, thank goodness I have a friend who's an automotive tech!
 

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@fatdog there is a thread where a couple folks that track their QVs have had replacements and one had them done under warranty. How many miles you got? I would do a search on brakes
 

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I'm on my third set of front pads and second rear without changing the rotors.

I'm having G-LOC create pads for the rear, as I haven't found any aftermarket replacement pads, but it's taking them forever and they are super flakey to deal with -- they just disappear for weeks/months on end - so I can't comment on their performance or fit yet.

For the fronts, I have used EBC Bluestuff, which while I won't get another set for the track, they would be perfectly fine for the street. You can get those, or other front pads for the QV from Chris at eurocompulsion https://shopeurocompulsion.net/collections/alfa-romeo-giulia-brakes
 

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Hey MrBlog, I'm thinking about taking my QV to the track next month and my original pads have 6K miles of highway and side roads.
Why wouldn't you get the EBC Bluestuff for the track? I was thinking about getting the front ones for that one track day and then keeping them for the winter.
What pads would you get for the track?
Thanks
 

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Go for it! You mic'd the rotors so you are halfway there. If you don't have a bad lip or scoring, don't sweat it. The pads will form to the surface profile anyway. A little ripple won't hurt if you don't feel any vibration. In fact it actually increases contact area ;)

I am starting to hate the stock pads. I just swapped mine for ceramics last night. Those flimsy shims are loose and highly suspect to me. The metallic dust is way too annoying too. I probably won't track my car since I have the Miata and Ferrari to go that route. The stock pads are not chamfored or slotted either. I would love to order a set of rear pads. Especially in ceramic. If we can't get any help there I may build a set with a new plate, epoxy, shims and sticky paste. But risking an exploding pad is not really worth it ;)
 
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Hey MrBlog, I'm thinking about taking my QV to the track next month and my original pads have 6K miles of highway and side roads.
Why wouldn't you get the EBC Bluestuff for the track? I was thinking about getting the front ones for that one track day and then keeping them for the winter.
What pads would you get for the track?
Thanks
I had G-LOC make pads but I don't have them yet so I can't give a review yet. If you want to try them, the part numbers they gave me are:

Front: GP1116-
Rear: GP2043-

Followed by the compound. I'm running R12/R10, so

Front: GP1116-R12
Rear: GP2043-R10

For Street compound, it would be:

Front: GP1116-GS-1
Rear: GP2043-GS-1

As for EBC, I'd try the Yellowstuff, since the Bluestuff couldn't even make it through a whole track day. But they only have fronts, so you'd have to run OEM pads on the rear.
 

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I'm on my third set of front pads and second rear without changing the rotors.

I'm having G-LOC create pads for the rear, as I haven't found any aftermarket replacement pads, but it's taking them forever and they are super flakey to deal with -- they just disappear for weeks/months on end - so I can't comment on their performance or fit yet.

For the fronts, I have used EBC Bluestuff, which while I won't get another set for the track, they would be perfectly fine for the street. You can get those, or other front pads for the QV from Chris at eurocompulsion https://shopeurocompulsion.net/collections/alfa-romeo-giulia-brakes
Getting ready to install the g locs tomorrow. Are there any gotchas when swapping pads? Just hit the two pins with a punch or? Also, did you have any issues with brake light/limp mode? I'm getting nervous based on some recent posts.
 

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No gotchas! Only that the rears require removal of the caliper since the halves are supported by the cast center rib. Easy though, 2 hex head long bolts. Use a breaker bar or pipe on your hex head or Allen key, Calibrate your wrist for reapplication torque ;) 1/4 turn max.

Pads will not throw a code because they work the same way as the old sensors. Two leads embedded in the sensor/entire pad are insulated until the wires touch the rotor, then the circuit is closed and ecu throws the light. Just bag and zip tie your sensor harness lead to safely protect it from the weather and debris. It lays down nicely on the ABS sensor harness (fronts).

Don't touch the e brake caliper and keep an eye on your master cylinder if you have to push the piston very far. Burp the cap too.
 

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Getting ready to install the g locs tomorrow. Are there any gotchas when swapping pads? Just hit the two pins with a punch or? Also, did you have any issues with brake light/limp mode? I'm getting nervous based on some recent posts.
I've heard about the brake light/limp mode and throwing codes, but I have not experienced it (yet) having swapped pads both front a rear several times.
 
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Same here, one time front and rear. No light when rear was out for measurement and tracing. I should be ready to assemble my custom pad fab this weekend. Removing the anti noise rubber coating has been a pain. I need an angle grinder. May be on the list ;)
 

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I've heard about the brake light/limp mode and throwing codes, but I have not experienced it (yet) having swapped pads both front a rear several times.
Yes I had it go into limp mode after I changed to my race pads. Do not jack up the car with the keys in it!!! DO NOT! Keep the car unlocked and the keys 30 feet away and you should be fine. It will throw codes that aren't CEL and you will have to go to the dealer.
 

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I've heard about the brake light/limp mode and throwing codes, but I have not experienced it (yet) having swapped pads both front a rear several times.
Yes I had it go into limp mode after I changed to my race pads. Do not jack up the car with the keys in it!!! DO NOT! Keep the car unlocked and the keys 30 feet away and you should be fine. It will throw codes that aren't CEL and you will have to go to the dealer.
Car was unlocked and keys were not nearby. The car is yanking left under hard braking, so seems will need a bleed or something for sure. Strange considering the Pistons only needed pushed in a mm or so due to the stock pads being so new still.

Have you done all 4 corners at the same time? I did and wonder if something is special about the rears. Also it's pretty lame to have to take the rear calipers off to swap pads.

Maybe the solution is to pull battery cable before doing brakes? I'm at a loss.

If it is a bleed issue, how does one bleed these brakes? Assume these is no available beaking without electricity....
 

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Have you done all 4 corners at the same time?
Weird. Yes, I've done all four corners a the same time. Just been lucky so far I guess (although not lucky in how much I've spent on pads / rotors).
 

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There is a brake pad replacement procedure. You may need a Witech to do it. Perhaps following that would prevent the pulling issue?

On my Q4 the front brake calipers are held on with 2 large torx bolts. The service manual says to discard and replace them each time they are removed. It appears to me that they have some kind of pressure activated locktite material on them.

IIRC the manual also says torque to 37ft-lbs, plus 20 degrees for the Q4 fronts. Buy a set of torx and hex key socket adapters and use a proper torque wrench. It is cheap insurance relative the catastrophe that would happen if a caliper came loose.
 

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There is a brake pad replacement procedure. You may need a Witech to do it. Perhaps following that would prevent the pulling issue?

On my Q4 the front brake calipers are held on with 2 large torx bolts. The service manual says to discard and replace them each time they are removed. It appears to me that they have some kind of pressure activated locktite material on them.

IIRC the manual also says torque to 37ft-lbs, plus 20 degrees for the Q4 fronts. Buy a set of torx and hex key socket adapters and use a proper torque wrench. It is cheap insurance relative the catastrophe that would happen if a caliper came loose.
No bolts need removed on the qv when doing the fronts. It's pretty standard brembo setup. Does the q4 have the garbage brake by wire? I wonder how we are supposed to bleed these things since we aren't allowed to jack the car up while the car is active.
 

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No bolts need removed on the qv when doing the fronts. It's pretty standard brembo setup. Does the q4 have the garbage brake by wire? I wonder how we are supposed to bleed these things since we aren't allowed to jack the car up while the car is active.
But I think the rears on the QV are mounted similarly to the fronts on the Q4, which is why I posted my experience.
All Giulia type 952s have brake by wire.

I have had no trouble jacking up my car with the electronics active to take wheels off. I disconnected the battery to change my rotors, since that involves disconnecting some electrical connections.

I think bleeding the brakes requires a Witech, although I have not checked if MultiEcuScan can do it. It is pretty common since the advent of ABS that some kind of OBDII tool is required to bleed the brakes.

It is not obvious to me that the pucks (front or rear) of my Brembo braked Q4 can be changed without removing the calipers. I did not check the manual though, as I was only changing the rotors for lighter weight, better cooled ones, similar to what comes stock on the iron brake setup QV.
 
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