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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There will be times when I do not drive my car for 2-3 weeks at a time. My normal procedure is to hook up a Battery Tender via cigarette lighter outlet to keep the car's battery fully charged and ready to start when I return.

Do you see any downside or risk using this method with the Giulia's "smart" battery?
 

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Is there a cigarette lighter? You are better off with a pigtail connector on the battery itself.
 

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There will be times when I do not drive my car for 2-3 weeks at a time. My normal procedure is to hook up a Battery Tender via cigarette lighter outlet to keep the car's battery fully charged and ready to start when I return.

Do you see any downside or risk using this method with the Giulia's "smart" battery?
Many cars only have switched power to the "power outlets", otherwise known as a cigarette plug, making a tender plugged in that way useless. I do not know what Giulia has.

Maybe MacGeek knows how much leakage current the car draws to be able to say if this is useful? On the cars I currently have letting them sit for several months is not a problem. 7 months of freezing weather is too long for my Mazda while 5 months was not a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As per manual, page 192
Attaching Filler Tube To Deflated
Tire
1— Sealant Cartridge 2— Filler Tube
3. Make sure the power switch of the compressor is in the off position (O).
4. Insert the plug into the power outlet in the center console, then start the engine.

There is a drawing of the power outlet inside the front edge of the center console.



Is there a cigarette lighter? You are better off with a pigtail connector on the battery itself.
 

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The 12V socket is not powered when the car is off. Install pigtail on battery, as suggested. Do not bypass the Intelligent Battery Sensor when doing so.
 

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The 12V socket is not powered when the car is off. Install pigtail on battery, as suggested. Do not bypass the Intelligent Battery Sensor when doing so.
Approximately how long does it take for a fully charged battery, in a Giulia (at rest), to discharge to the point of being unable to start the engine?
What is the recommended charge rate of a "trickle" charger, or battery "tender" for long term (several weeks, or months) connection and use on a Giulia battery?
 

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I don't have a hard number for what the current absorption when the car is parked. But I guess I can infer it. Since the Intelligent Battery Sensor requires a 4 hour period of quiescence when calibrating itself, and quiescence is defined as battery current between -200 mA and +50 mA, I would guess normal absorption is supposed to be less than 200 mA. It would be interesting to test it with a clamp meter. With the battery rated at 95 Ah and assuming a 200 mA load, that would mean a bit less than 20 days.

As for battery tenders, a smart one (like a CTEK) will be able to maintain the battery indefinitely with no adverse effects.
 

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I don't have a hard number for what the current absorption when the car is parked. But I guess I can infer it. Since the Intelligent Battery Sensor requires a 4 hour period of quiescence when calibrating itself, and quiescence is defined as battery current between -200 mA and +50 mA, I would guess normal absorption is supposed to be less than 200 mA. It would be interesting to test it with a clamp meter. With the battery rated at 95 Ah and assuming a 200 mA load, that would mean a bit less than 20 days.

As for battery tenders, a smart one (like a CTEK) will be able to maintain the battery indefinitely with no adverse effects.
So our cars should be able to survive a 20-day rest without any special measures? Life rarely grants me such long absences.
 
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As per manual, page 192
Attaching Filler Tube To Deflated
Tire
1— Sealant Cartridge 2— Filler Tube
3. Make sure the power switch of the compressor is in the off position (O).
4. Insert the plug into the power outlet in the center console, then start the engine.

There is a drawing of the power outlet inside the front edge of the center console.
Thanks Rhona. :wink2:
 

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So our cars should be able to survive a 20-day rest without any special measures? Life rarely grants me such long absences.
The other thing to consider is that a car uses much more power when locked with the alarm activated.

We have found our 4C to drain the battery quickly when locked, but be able to sit for a while without draining it if unlocked.
 

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The other thing to consider is that a car uses much more power when locked with the alarm activated.

We have found our 4C to drain the battery quickly when locked, but be able to sit for a while without draining it if unlocked.
That makes sense. I can't see locking a car when it's in my garage. Anyone who manages to gain access already has free reign.
 

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I don't have a hard number for what the current absorption when the car is parked. But I guess I can infer it. Since the Intelligent Battery Sensor requires a 4 hour period of quiescence when calibrating itself, and quiescence is defined as battery current between -200 mA and +50 mA, I would guess normal absorption is supposed to be less than 200 mA. It would be interesting to test it with a clamp meter. With the battery rated at 95 Ah and assuming a 200 mA load, that would mean a bit less than 20 days.

As for battery tenders, a smart one (like a CTEK) will be able to maintain the battery indefinitely with no adverse effects.
MacGeek,

200mA for 20 days is 96Ah. That would leave the battery fully dead. 95Ah is not the discharge until the battery won't start the car, it is the discharge until won't produce the target current any more. 95Ah is at the 20 hour rate, of 4.75Amps. Your starter draws at least a couple hundred Amps. Also, you previous noted that there are 80Ah or 95Ah batteries; 95Ah is probably for the diesel engined cars, since diesels have extra power draws compared to gas engines, including an electric interior defroster. Drawing more than 1/2 of the Ah rating out of the battery will significantly shorten its life expectancy. Note that this is a major difference between lead-acid batteries and Lion batteries.

200mA is a pretty high draw for an unoccupied vehicle. My pickup truck can sit for 6 months at time and still start (barely). It has 210Ah worth of batteries. Assuming I can draw 105Ah from the batteries and still power the starter and intake heaters that works out to 24mA draw or less, much of which is probably leakage current internal to the batteries.

One issue with a battery tender is the need to run a power cord into the car. Besides the potential damage to the car's finish you need to leave some part of the car open. In my Hantavirus infected mouse infested neighborhood that can be a problem. Do you know if there is an appropriate point to attach an exterior outlet on Giulia?
 

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I never claimed the car uses 200 mA while parked. I said I don't have a number, and the only data I could infer is from the IBS calibration parameters. As I already stated, the only way to have a ballpark is for someone to take out a clamp meter and measure. Just make sure your measurement extends for at least 30 minutes after locking the car and without using anything. I also said that the 95 Ah battery is linked to the presence of the cold climates adaptation package option code. My information is that said code is part of the standard equipment for all AM40 (i.e. US) Sincoms. You don't need to keep the trunk open, battery tender cables are thin and can be pinched in the trunk seal without being damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
MacGeek, I love it when you talk dirty, err, I mean technical with facts. I think I'll make you my Alfa Guru Go To Guy! Seriously, thank you for your knowledge. I'm in Montana waiting for delivery of my Giulia next week.


I never claimed the car uses 200 mA while parked. I said I don't have a number, and the only data I could infer is from the IBS calibration parameters. As I already stated, the only way to have a ballpark is for someone to take out a clamp meter and measure. Just make sure your measurement extends for at least 30 minutes after locking the car and without using anything. I also said that the 95 Ah battery is linked to the presence of the cold climates adaptation package option code. My information is that said code is part of the standard equipment for all AM40 (i.e. US) Sincoms. You don't need to keep the trunk open, battery tender cables are thin and can be pinched in the trunk seal without being damaged.
 

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I never claimed the car uses 200 mA while parked. I said I don't have a number, and the only data I could infer is from the IBS calibration parameters. As I already stated, the only way to have a ballpark is for someone to take out a clamp meter and measure. Just make sure your measurement extends for at least 30 minutes after locking the car and without using anything. I also said that the 95 Ah battery is linked to the presence of the cold climates adaptation package option code. My information is that said code is part of the standard equipment for all AM40 (i.e. US) Sincoms. You don't need to keep the trunk open, battery tender cables are thin and can be pinched in the trunk seal without being damaged.

Thanks for the clarification. However you did say that based on your 200mA number the car could reasonably be left parked for 20 days; I do not think so. The current needs to be less than 100mA to allow a car with a 95Ah battery to be parked for 20days and still expect it to be able to start. Note that 20days is a common amount of time to leave a car in an airport long term parking lot, so hopefully Giulia is at least this good.

I own a clamp meter, but it is only accurate to 1Amp. DC current measurements with a clamp meter are notoriously inaccurate and unstable over long measurement periods.

I am more concerned about trunk seal and trunk lid paint damage than damage to the tender power cord.

What's a "Sincom"?
 

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A Sincom code (aka MVS code, for Model-Version-Series) is what defines the exact version of a vehicle.

As an example, in short form, a MY17 US-Spec Giulia Ti RWD would be 621.PR1.0, where 621 = Giulia NAFTA, P = Trim level 1 (Super/Ti), R = RWD, 1 = 2.0 280hp, and 0 = MY17 (for NAFTA cars, the series code changes with the model year). There are long form Sincoms too, e.g. 83621PR1001400, where the prefix 83 stands for Alfa Romeo, and the suffix 01400 has the 0 meaning LHD, and 1400 meaning USA.

Presumably for reasons of consistency or compatibility with existing dealer network software, US dealers use completely different sales codes (all spare part codes, and many factory option codes are different, too), but at the Mothership everything is classified using Sincoms and European option codes.

The trunk seal is flexible enough to accomodate a thin CTEK cable; I've been using a battery tender with a much thicker cable for 8 years now on one of my Alfas, pinched in the door seal, with no issues. You could also hook a tender to the auxilary positive in the engine bay and to any ground in the bay.
 

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So will the C-tec tender connected to the 12V connector work? Does it stay on so it can work? If not, I suppose you can connect it to the battery like any other battery? I hate messing with batteries... personal pet peeve. I just hate power.
 

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Not sure how much it draws from the battery but i can say this now. Mine just sat for a 6 weeks no charger and fired right up so i know I’m good for that long on a good battery.
 
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