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no not cars, bikes which are far less forgiving to the foolish and/or inexperienced.
hard surface? I dunno, do you consider your venue of convenience hard surface?
 

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@Alfissimo I drive on the street and want traction control and ESC disable in order to be able to spin wheels to get unstuck in low traction situations (snow, mud). Once unstuck, having ABS is important since getting the car to move likely did not get it to a higher traction situation, it just moved the car to a smoother surface. Maybe it will work to put the car in D to get unstuck and once moving switch out of D to get traction control, ESC and ABS all back on? LMK.

Off road enthusiasts typically prefer to disable ABS since on loose surfaces the best braking is often achieved by locking the wheels and accumulating a pile of dirt/gravel in front of the wheels. Under some conditions snow can behave like loose dirt/gravel too. However for most on snow covered road conditions I think ABS on is going to perform the best.
 

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The dongle turns on Dyno mode, pure and simple. Not sure if that was stated in the novel.
 

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The dongle turns on Dyno mode, pure and simple. Not sure if that was stated in the novel.
No, the ESC/ABS disable is only available in D-mode. Switching to N or A re-engages ESC/ABS. However this has to be done stationary or the fault lights stay lit - not a problem if you are doing it to to get out of a temporary situation.

@lockem: spinning your wheels is not an effective method for getting traction in mud or snow. In fact, I’ve seen a NYC cab spin his rear wheels on ice so violently, they caught fire! Far better is to engage a higher gear (2nd or 3rd) and use low revs to allow low torque to pull you out of the sticky situation - my Morgan 4/4 was phenomenal in snow with 50’s tire technology because it could pull 2nd at 600 rpm... Never got stuck once...
 

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@lockem: spinning your wheels is not an effective method for getting traction in mud or snow. In fact, I’ve seen a NYC cab spin his rear wheels on ice so violently, they caught fire! Far better is to engage a higher gear (2nd or 3rd) and use low revs to allow low torque to pull you out of the sticky situation - my Morgan 4/4 was phenomenal in snow with 50’s tire technology because it could pull 2nd at 600 rpm... Never got noonce...
[/QUOTE]

And I have been in situations where spinning the wheels was the only was to get free short of getting out and shoveling. To be sure spinning wheels will not get you out of a hole, but it can get you free if there is pavement not so far down and/or if slipping sideways can find better traction.

Putting the vehicle in a higher gear is not different than giving it less gas in the lower gear. You get LESS torque to the wheels.

The dongle description seems to indicate that the car is put in dyno (not to be confused with dynamic) mode when you switch to dynamic mode. I'm not sure that the dongle does much else but maybe someone can point out a difference. MES can put the car in dyno mode, but then you need a computer attached to the OBDII adapter.
 

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No, the ESC/ABS disable is only available in D-mode. Switching to N or A re-engages ESC/ABS. However this has to be done stationary or the fault lights stay lit - not a problem if you are doing it to to get out of a temporary situation.
OK, that's pretty cool I guess. A lot more convenient than what lockem stated down below about needing a computer and MES and all that jazz.

@lockem: spinning your wheels is not an effective method for getting traction in mud or snow. In fact, I’ve seen a NYC cab spin his rear wheels on ice so violently, they caught fire! Far better is to engage a higher gear (2nd or 3rd) and use low revs to allow low torque to pull you out of the sticky situation - my Morgan 4/4 was phenomenal in snow with 50’s tire technology because it could pull 2nd at 600 rpm... Never got noonce...
Eh, there are times and places when you need to spin em.

And I have been in situations where spinning the wheels was the only was to get free short of getting out and shoveling. To be sure spinning wheels will not get you out of a hole, but it can get you free if there is pavement not so far down and/or if slipping sideways can find better traction.

Putting the vehicle in a higher gear is not different than giving it less gas in the lower gear. You get LESS torque to the wheels.
Less torque can usually help out though, you don't need to torque when you're already losing traction. It's like short shifting out of a turn (racing) so as not to over power your grip. It can help you modulate the pedal a little better, IMO FWIW.

The dongle description seems to indicate that the car is put in dyno (not to be confused with dynamic) mode when you switch to dynamic mode. I'm not sure that the dongle does much else but maybe someone can point out a difference. MES can put the car in dyno mode, but then you need a computer attached to the OBDII adapter.
Yeah, it sounds hella convenient. I still wish that Alfa would update to allow this functionality from the Infotainment system though. The ability to enable/disable, independently, the ESC, TC, and ABS would be sweet. Even just ESC and TC would be great.
 

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Question since we are talking about dyno mode.
Do you know if, other than ABS, it also disables FCW (front collision warning?)
 

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Question since we are talking about dyno mode.
Do you know if, other than ABS, it also disables FCW (front collision warning?)
So only speaking to the Dyno Mode enablement, I believe it turns all of that off. I took a boring video of the warnings, here's what it showed...

  • FCW Limited Functionality Front Camera Service Required
  • Service ABS
  • Service Brake System
  • Service ESC System
  • Service Hill Hold Control
  • Service Electronic Parking Brake
  • AST* Service Required
*Alfa Steering Torque, I had to look that one up.
 
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The dongle turns on Dyno mode, pure and simple. Not sure if that was stated in the novel.
Yes, basically it does but with a bit more going on.
 

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No, the ESC/ABS disable is only available in D-mode. Switching to N or A re-engages ESC/ABS. However this has to be done stationary or the fault lights stay lit - not a problem if you are doing it to to get out of a temporary situation.
Update: with ESC/ABS disabled, switching from D-mode to N or A can ONLY be done with the car stationary in order for the systems to fully reset. I proved that yesterday, having spun on a wet track with the dongle active in D-mode. Getting underway again, I selected N but in the lousy conditions, it was obvious that ESC/ABS remained disabled...

We had a brief downpour a little later which flooded the track with large pools of standing water, so when I next went out, I left off the dongle, selected D-mode and auto-shifting, and was very pleased with how well the car behaved. I could mildly throttle-steer and had plenty of warning of when I was going to exceed available traction. Interestingly, the Michelin PS4S suck in very wet conditions, despite the TireRack reviews. They were fine in the morning on a damp track, allowing the 4WD to do its thing competently but were worse than DOT-R tires I’ve used on other cars in those conditions...

The nannies must have been working hard because the car threw the dreaded CEL, put the car permanently into N-mode and deactivated Auto Stop/Start to punish me... Had to do a hard reboot (disconnect the battery) to clear the faults.
 

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Update: with ESC/ABS disabled, switching from D-mode to N or A can ONLY be done with the car stationary in order for the systems to fully reset. I proved that yesterday, having spun on a wet track with the dongle active in D-mode. Getting underway again, I selected N but in the lousy conditions, it was obvious that ESC/ABS remained disabled...

We had a brief downpour a little later which flooded the track with large pools of standing water, so when I next went out, I left off the dongle, selected D-mode and auto-shifting, and was very pleased with how well the car behaved. I could mildly throttle-steer and had plenty of warning of when I was going to exceed available traction. Interestingly, the Michelin PS4S suck in very wet conditions, despite the TireRack reviews. They were fine in the morning on a damp track, allowing the 4WD to do its thing competently but were worse than DOT-R tires I’ve used on other cars in those conditions...

The nannies must have been working hard because the car threw the dreaded CEL, put the car permanently into N-mode and deactivated Auto Stop/Start to punish me... Had to do a hard reboot (disconnect the battery) to clear the faults.
Interesting. You should have a bluetooth dongle handy and you can clear that all up. I have an OBDLink MX and use the included app. Works great for clearing codes.

Edit: It's fast. my car threw the christmas light bin at me the other night. Pulled over, turned it off, lit it up (start/stop button with no brake), opened app, cleared codes, done. like 1-2 minutes tops.
 
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