Giulia Ti AWD oil change
September 13, 2017 - 4027 miles
My oil life monitor said another 151 days and 5595 miles until oil change needed. I take a lot of short 5 mile rides to work then back home. Maybe only a third of my miles are highway, perhaps not "severe service", but I was off yesterday so I thought I'd get to know the car better and change the oil. I'm saving my complimentary oil change service for closer to the 10000 mile mark.
Tools used
Procedure
My car is going in this evening for software updates tomorrow; I'm going to ask them to tell me the "secret handshake" to reset oil life monitor or to reset it with their computer. If you're claustrophobic find a way to raise car higher. The belly pan is right in your face, particularly at the rear of it where it tucks under the wheel arch trim. It's not so bad removing it, but kind of hateful to reinstall. Also, remove the screws and reinstall in a different order if you like.
I just did what made sense to me after studying how the belly pan is overlapped by the air dam/under bumper in front and wheel arch trim in the rear. It's easier to move back and forth to free the rear up rather than the other way. Oh, all the usual disclaimers; this worked for me and I expect it would for you (caution claustrophobics) but use caution and work carefully, etc.
September 13, 2017 - 4027 miles
My oil life monitor said another 151 days and 5595 miles until oil change needed. I take a lot of short 5 mile rides to work then back home. Maybe only a third of my miles are highway, perhaps not "severe service", but I was off yesterday so I thought I'd get to know the car better and change the oil. I'm saving my complimentary oil change service for closer to the 10000 mile mark.
Tools used
- T27 bit to use with cordless driver to remove screws that retain the engine belly pan
- T27 socket and 1/4” drive ratchet to reinstall the T27 screws by hand after the oil change
- 13 mm ratcheting combination wrench (GearWrench) to remove oil drain plug or slim ratchet and short socket
- 1/4” drive 13 mm 6-point socket and 1/4” drive torque wrench to tighten drain plug to 15 ft-lbs or 20 N-m.
- Oil filter removal tool - mine is similar to vise grip in function
- 0W-30 full synthetic oil that also meets European spec ACEA C2, C3 for exhaust system protection. Mobil 1, ESP (x1) 0W-30 meets spec as does Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30, the OEM oil.
- Mobil 1 oil filter M1-113A or the OEM Mopar MO-339 filter (OEM part no. 04892339AA).
- oil drain pan or graduated plastic bucket, paper towels, nitrile gloves; plastic bag, cardboard or newspapers for garage floor protection
- 20 Lynx Levelers (RV leveling blocks) to make ramps for front tires and thin camper ramps for rear tires to raise car 4.5 inches and makes job possible. (More lift would make it easier for belly pan removal and reinstallation)
- wheel chocks
Procedure
- Drive car to warm up oil to operating temperature.
- Raise car on a lift and make it safe, drive over pit, or drive up on suitable ramps. I used 10 Lynx levels per side for front ramps (4.5”) and slim camper leveling ramps for 3” or so rear wheel lift. Put transmission in Park, set parking brake, chock rear wheels. Safety first!
- Remove the engine belly pan by removing 19 fasteners (per Alfa Romeo diagram) using T27 bit and cordless impact driver or with hand tools.
- Remove the seven screws in front of the belly pan (see diagram) and work toward the rear, ending with two screws on each side near the wheel arch trim.
- To remove pan, slide it toward front of car a couple inches to help disengage it from the edges of the wheel arch covers, lower the rear edge of the pan, then slide pan toward the rear of the car to disengage it from the front air dam lip where it was held by 7 of the 19 total screws.
- Remove oil drain plug with 13 mm gear wrench ratcheting combination wrench or slim socket wrench and short/non-deepwell socket. Examine red rubbery washer, replace if torn, worn, thin or looks funny (about $9 from AR dealer). Mine was fine.
- When oil flow slows, remove the filter using oil filter wrench. Be sure the gasket comes with it.
- After all oil is drained, replace the drain plug, torque to 20 N-m (15 ft-lb) using 1/4” drive torque wrench and 6 point 1/4” drive socket.
- Install new oil filter, torque to 10 ft-lbs, or hand-tighten per instructions on the filter (gasket contact plus 3/4 turn for the Mobil 1 filter; contact plus 3/4 -1 turn for the Mopar filter).
- Giulia oil capacity is 5.5quarts; fill with 5 quarts then add by 8 oz increments per the engine oil level monitor in the infotainment screen.
- Start car, check for leaks. If none, reinstall engine belly pan by sliding front lip under the air dam where the 7 screws are, then gradually slide toward rear while guiding rear pan edge under the wheel arch trim on both sides. Fasten loosely with two screws on each side at the rear. Work forward, inserting screws by hand and leaving loose so belly pan can be adjusted if necessary. End with the 7 screws along the front edge of the pan. Tighten all by hand finger tight. Then tighten all by hand carefully with 1/4” drive ratchet with 3/8” drive adaptor to the 3/8” drive T27 socket.
- Back car carefully down the ramps, and drive car and warm to operating temperature, check oil level on monitor and add by 8 oz. until full using oil level monitor.
- Reset oil life monitor (what’s the secret?) or ask Alfa dealer. I posted here what I read somewhere "car ignition on but not running, depress accelerator pedal three times slowly pausing between each press then turn car off", but unfortunately it DID NOT WORK.
- Congratulate myself, used $36 of the Mobil 1 oil which is normally $9.49 per quart but on sale at NAPA for $5.99 and $10 Mobil 1 filter.
My car is going in this evening for software updates tomorrow; I'm going to ask them to tell me the "secret handshake" to reset oil life monitor or to reset it with their computer. If you're claustrophobic find a way to raise car higher. The belly pan is right in your face, particularly at the rear of it where it tucks under the wheel arch trim. It's not so bad removing it, but kind of hateful to reinstall. Also, remove the screws and reinstall in a different order if you like.
I just did what made sense to me after studying how the belly pan is overlapped by the air dam/under bumper in front and wheel arch trim in the rear. It's easier to move back and forth to free the rear up rather than the other way. Oh, all the usual disclaimers; this worked for me and I expect it would for you (caution claustrophobics) but use caution and work carefully, etc.
